Toyota needs body work...
#1
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Toyota needs body work...
This summer I plan to take care of the rust on the body and frame of my '86 4rnr. I've already decided to use fiberglass fill on the big holes on the quarter panels over the tires....make like my own custom fender flares. But, I wondered how to take care of the pitting so that when I paint over it the pitting doesn't show through. Just sand down to bare smooth metal? It just seem like I'd have to take off alot of metal that way. Any suggestions?
Also, I read the thread on using rustoleum (aka tremclad) to repaint. That's definitely what I'm going to do! But, I've read, and rustoleum also claims, that you can paint directly over rust. Anyone with experience on doing this?
Also, I read the thread on using rustoleum (aka tremclad) to repaint. That's definitely what I'm going to do! But, I've read, and rustoleum also claims, that you can paint directly over rust. Anyone with experience on doing this?
#2
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I'm no expert but I wouldn't paint over rust. As for the pitted areas, remove the rust with a wire brush or wheel and skim over the surface with spot putty. At least that's the method I'm familiar with.
#4
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Yeah, I understand your thinking there. But, what's your experience. I mean, I've been reading this mopar site wherein the fellow did paint directly over rust with no peeling, etc. after years. As far as the putty, do you mean bondo?
Anyone had experience using fiberglass in the above application? I already have a gallon of that, so I'm interested if it would do the same.
Oh, I've read about that stuff for years....heard mixed results. Even if it is/was the best, I can't afford it...lol!
Thanks, guys!
#5
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Can't help you with the rust...but here is an alternative to the tremclad. Supposed to be easier to apply with better looks. Read away. http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57181
#6
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heres the guy that did the roll on paint starts about 5 posts down
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
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#8
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Can't help you with the rust...but here is an alternative to the tremclad. Supposed to be easier to apply with better looks. Read away. http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57181
Wow...that stuff is quite a bit pricier than rustoleum. The fellow's paint does look real good, though. Thanks for the tip, Kyle.
Thanks Cymon...that's the thread I've been reading for the past several days...lol! I've been biting my nails waiting for warm weather since.
Why not paint over rust with rustoleum? Obviously loose debris is not going to hold paint, but what is your experience? I'm seriously considering using the rust converter first anyway. But, if I don't have to then I don't have to. Cut some of my cost..you know?
Prep? You're talking to a Virgo here.....I'm all about detail! If I can make it look good, I will. Thanks for the pointer.
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I did this to my bed last summer. I cut out all the rusted metal then shaped and welded in all new panels. Once I got all the welds smooth, I roughed it in with fiberglass and then smoothed it out with bondo. I'll take some pictures of the results if you wanna see what it looks like.
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Wow...that stuff is quite a bit pricier than rustoleum. The fellow's paint does look real good, though. Thanks for the tip, Kyle.
Thanks Cymon...that's the thread I've been reading for the past several days...lol! I've been biting my nails waiting for warm weather since.
Why not paint over rust with rustoleum? Obviously loose debris is not going to hold paint, but what is your experience? I'm seriously considering using the rust converter first anyway. But, if I don't have to then I don't have to. Cut some of my cost..you know?
Prep? You're talking to a Virgo here.....I'm all about detail! If I can make it look good, I will. Thanks for the pointer.
Thanks Cymon...that's the thread I've been reading for the past several days...lol! I've been biting my nails waiting for warm weather since.
Why not paint over rust with rustoleum? Obviously loose debris is not going to hold paint, but what is your experience? I'm seriously considering using the rust converter first anyway. But, if I don't have to then I don't have to. Cut some of my cost..you know?
Prep? You're talking to a Virgo here.....I'm all about detail! If I can make it look good, I will. Thanks for the pointer.
I've restored my fair share of cars and I highly believe in doing it once and doing it right.
#13
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B-b-b-b-bump!
BTW, Anthony....how did you get your hands on a hilux? I did some searching and nothing seems available except in foreign countries. I know about the regulations here and all, just wondered how you managed to get one.
BTW, Anthony....how did you get your hands on a hilux? I did some searching and nothing seems available except in foreign countries. I know about the regulations here and all, just wondered how you managed to get one.
#14
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Some people call the pre-Taco trucks Hilux's. I think Hiilux was also a trim package (kinda like "Silverado").
I think officially, the "pre-Taco" trucks were called "Compact Truck".
I think officially, the "pre-Taco" trucks were called "Compact Truck".
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It's not a real Hilux, I just call it one. Many Toyota people around here call the Pre 84 trucks a Hilux so I just hopped on the band wagon lol.
Personally, if it was me, I'd grind/sand/whatever all the rust out/off and go from there.
Personally, if it was me, I'd grind/sand/whatever all the rust out/off and go from there.
#16
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Okay, that's nice to know. Every since I've been reading about Toyota diesels I've been curious. (The veggie oil idea has me very interested. Not to mention all the plus's with diesels.) I just assumed Hilux also meant diesel.
At whatever point I needed to replace my 22re, I thought about...well...a diesel.
At whatever point I needed to replace my 22re, I thought about...well...a diesel.
#17
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Is there any way to loosen the body to lift it up from the frame in the rear without having to completely remove the body....and consequently the motor and a bunch of other components? The vehicle in question is the '86 you see in my avatar.
#19
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I'm gonna do it. I can get what I need materials-wise for just under $40. For a very decent paint job and rust control, it's right up my alley. Not to mention, the reds they have are real freckin' close to the Toyota paint....and alot more durable. Altough, after 21yrs, I suppose the original paint has actually held up pretty well.
Last edited by thook; 02-12-2007 at 11:05 AM.
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