shifting problems
#1
shifting problems
Hi all! I'm newbie to yotatech & I need some help/ideas!
I have '85 toyota pickup with a 22r.
Problem originated from a rear main seal leak. I pulled the seal & put in a new one. While I had everything apart, I had the flywheel turned and I put in a new clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing. I also changed the transmission and transfer case fluids. Everything went back together without any problems. Started her up but now won't go into gear with the engine running... as if the clutch wasn't disengaging. Shifts fine between gears with the engine off. Shifted fine before I began this project.
In an effort to solve this problem, I've replaced the slave cylinder, put in fresh fluid and bled the system. No luck.
Any ideas on what to check next?
I have '85 toyota pickup with a 22r.
Problem originated from a rear main seal leak. I pulled the seal & put in a new one. While I had everything apart, I had the flywheel turned and I put in a new clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing. I also changed the transmission and transfer case fluids. Everything went back together without any problems. Started her up but now won't go into gear with the engine running... as if the clutch wasn't disengaging. Shifts fine between gears with the engine off. Shifted fine before I began this project.
In an effort to solve this problem, I've replaced the slave cylinder, put in fresh fluid and bled the system. No luck.
Any ideas on what to check next?
#2
Well, before you pulled the trigger on the parts shotgun (slave cylinder) you should have simply checked for clutch fork movement.
!: Verify that when you push on the clutch, the clutch fork is pushed by the slave cylinder to its forward most postion.
2: Check to see if fluid is leaking from clutch master cylinder. Pull back the carpet on the drivers side. If it's leaking there will be brake fluid running down the inner wall getting onto the carpet.
3: If the clutch master and slave seem to be operating correctly you installed the clutch or related parts improperly.
4: Remove transmission/transfercase and check to make sure it's installed properly. Read instruction material that came with the clutch and verify placement and orientation of clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and clutch fork. Making sure to lube all pivot/contact points with supplied lube.
5: If all else fails take it to a qualified mechanic and make sure you are going to College so you can just drop off the BMW at the service center next time.
!: Verify that when you push on the clutch, the clutch fork is pushed by the slave cylinder to its forward most postion.
2: Check to see if fluid is leaking from clutch master cylinder. Pull back the carpet on the drivers side. If it's leaking there will be brake fluid running down the inner wall getting onto the carpet.
3: If the clutch master and slave seem to be operating correctly you installed the clutch or related parts improperly.
4: Remove transmission/transfercase and check to make sure it's installed properly. Read instruction material that came with the clutch and verify placement and orientation of clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and clutch fork. Making sure to lube all pivot/contact points with supplied lube.
5: If all else fails take it to a qualified mechanic and make sure you are going to College so you can just drop off the BMW at the service center next time.
Last edited by Trainwreckinseattle; 06-26-2010 at 04:29 PM. Reason: Grammar
#3
Thanks trainwreck for the quick response.
1. Slave cylinder was operating before the replacement, but I found it extremely easy to depress the plunger with my fingers; I assumed wear and replaced. New slave is stiff & I have a very difficult time depressing the plunger with my thumb.
I had a friend depress the clutch pedal while I observed the slave cylinder depress the fork. How much distance should the fork travel? I have no baseline. I also had the pedal depressed for approx 1 min to verify no leaks in the system.
2. No observable leaks around the master cylinder.
3/4. I am pretty confident all parts were installed in the correct orientation, all bolts were torque down to spec, and pivot points lubed. This is not my first clutch job. I will pull the tranny again if necessary, but I want to exhaust all other options before another overhaul.
5. What a rude thing to say. I pride myself on my own work & do not necessarily trust "qualified" mechanics, not that I can't afford it. I have a BSME with minors in automotive and aerospace engineering. You shouldn't be so quick to assume everyone else is a dumbass and your generic responses do not help anyone.
My final thought for the night.. The transmission fluid that came out of the transmission was thick and black. I put in new gear oil. Assume the clutch is operating correctly. Could changing the viscosity of the fluid effect the synchros to the point where it wouldn't go into gear?
1. Slave cylinder was operating before the replacement, but I found it extremely easy to depress the plunger with my fingers; I assumed wear and replaced. New slave is stiff & I have a very difficult time depressing the plunger with my thumb.
I had a friend depress the clutch pedal while I observed the slave cylinder depress the fork. How much distance should the fork travel? I have no baseline. I also had the pedal depressed for approx 1 min to verify no leaks in the system.
2. No observable leaks around the master cylinder.
3/4. I am pretty confident all parts were installed in the correct orientation, all bolts were torque down to spec, and pivot points lubed. This is not my first clutch job. I will pull the tranny again if necessary, but I want to exhaust all other options before another overhaul.
5. What a rude thing to say. I pride myself on my own work & do not necessarily trust "qualified" mechanics, not that I can't afford it. I have a BSME with minors in automotive and aerospace engineering. You shouldn't be so quick to assume everyone else is a dumbass and your generic responses do not help anyone.
My final thought for the night.. The transmission fluid that came out of the transmission was thick and black. I put in new gear oil. Assume the clutch is operating correctly. Could changing the viscosity of the fluid effect the synchros to the point where it wouldn't go into gear?
#4
While possible, it's highly doubtfull unless you installed a gear oil that is quite different from what is called for. Even then one would assume it would "kind of" work.
#6
I have pulled many of these clutches apart where only one clip was holding the throw out bearing in place. (usually they still function quite well this way) I also recently pulled one apart where someone had forced it into place 90* off.
#7
Registered User
the pressure plate it self may be defective. i have heard of the fingers not working correctly on some new units,mainly on full size rigs but it could be possible. there could also be a groove on the part the tob slides on that is binding the bearing.
Last edited by swampfox; 06-27-2010 at 02:50 PM.
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#9
hmmm... defective pressure plate. that could do it. is there any way to test this? I pulled the clutch fork boot and looked in while a friend pressed the clutch pedal. I can see the fingers moving, but can't tell if it's enough to disengage the clutch. I found a friend who has a similar toyota same year and motor as mine, its 2wd instead of 4wd. I am going to measure the distance the throwout bearing moves on both our rigs and see how mine compares to a working clutch. If mine throws the same or greater distance then I have an internal problem. If I throw less than working rig, then it's probably the clutch master cylinder being that I already replaced the slave. I plan to do this tonight before I start ripping the transmission back out.
#11
progress update..
I pulled the transmission today. I believe clutch is installed correctly. Flat side is towards the engine with the thick side with the towards the tranny. Correct me if thats wrong.
I don't see any problems with the throwout bearing. Can anyone describe which direction is should be installed so I can verify.
Problem might be with the clutch fork. I think the spring is worn and is not keeping the fork snug with the pivot ball. There is a lot of slop & the fork can easily be popped on/off by hand.
Any thoughts......
I pulled the transmission today. I believe clutch is installed correctly. Flat side is towards the engine with the thick side with the towards the tranny. Correct me if thats wrong.
I don't see any problems with the throwout bearing. Can anyone describe which direction is should be installed so I can verify.
Problem might be with the clutch fork. I think the spring is worn and is not keeping the fork snug with the pivot ball. There is a lot of slop & the fork can easily be popped on/off by hand.
Any thoughts......
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