intense

I know this will probably create alot of controversy, as oil threads tend to do.

But I'm looking for a recommendation on oil and dif fluid....be it Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, whatever. Also, please specify which type and weight GL-4, GL-5, etc), please.

Second, how do I go about changing the oil? I've got an FSM in route, but I want to try to change my oil over the weekend. It's an auto, so I think I'll need to swap the fluid a couple times to make sure ALL of it gets changed. How much do I need? For the difs, do I change the front dif fluid with the tranny fluid (like my WRX) or do I change that separately? I assume the rear dif is pretty straight forward.

thanks
mike

eric-the-red

Front diff is seperate, just like the rear. Make sure you remove the fill plugs first, nothing worse than having a stuck fill plug after draining them. Here's a good write up for flushing the trans.
http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm

Depending on your tranny model the transfer case may ATF or gear oil.

Flash319

I like Lucus Synthetic 70-90W in both diffs and manual trans. It really smoothed out shifting.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Recommended fluids from my '85 Owner's Manual:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechInfo.shtml#Fluids

And what I run:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/index.sh...ntheticGearOil

tc

x2 for Redline

pat161

Personally I go with what the manual states and don't worry too much about it as far as weight and GL-4 or 5. Though I will admit I put 75/90 in both diffs and the xfer case even though one calls for 80/90 IIRC. But the difference is so minimal I have never even given it a thought. As for brands I have used Redline and Mobil 1, let's just say I now no longer bother special ordering anything, Mobil 1 all around works great for me. Though I am not saying Redline is not a great product, just in my manual tranny I didn't notice the big difference w/ MT-90 others have talked about, so where M1 is easier to buy locally I use that. The xfer and rear diff are very straight forward, for the rear I find that dropping the spare gives you some wiggle room and the e-brake needs to be disengaged or the fill plug can be a PIA as the wrench will get stuck under the cable. Make sure you reinstall the magnetic drain plug in the diffs properly, xfer case does not have a magnetic drain. Some do new crush gaskets every time, I have reused mine and never lost a drop, but new ones are not a bad idea. The front diff is a bit of a PIA, I suggest removing all skid plates first and then make sure you have the proper socket, it is an allen style bolt, some are 2 different sizes, a 10mm and 12mm IIRC. Hit it with liquid wrench while you do everything else and the front plugs should come right out, they are easier to strip so be careful. I went from a 5 speed to auto and I think i will just stick with dino fluid and pay to have it flushed every 30k or so, just seems easier to me.

tc

If it's a 2nd or 1st gen, all the plugs take a 24mm wrench/socket. Be sure to undo the FILL plugs first so you'll be sure to be able to fill them back up after you get the drain plugs out.

One of those fluid transfer pump deals helps a lot. you can do the rear with a funnel if you take down the tire.

tc

Oh - and make sure you've got some floor dry/kitty litter and plenty of rags. I made a HUGE mess last time

bktaco

If redline or other synthetic is too hard to find, Mobil1 might be a good alternative for you. I use it exclusively in my fleet, and Used Oil analyses indicate that is it doing a sufficient job (in the engine at least) to 10,000 miles (with a 5000 mile filter change). I assume it holds up for longer drain intervals in the differentials, transmission and transfer case too. I prefer it only because I can find it in any parts store.

On the other hand, standard Napa (re-branded valvoline) oils are another good choice. High quality, low cost. These oils probably also perform sufficiently, although using a higher drain frequency. For me, the time advantage and superior protection of synthetic is worth it right now. But if I had more time and less money (ie, retirement) I would be using the Napa stuff without hesitation.

Not to get too far off topic, but Napa filters are re-branded Wix (air, oil and fuel). Another great value. I believe Napa mufflers are re-branded Dynomax/Walker - cost half as much for the same stuff!

intense

Thanks for the info guys...keeps the info coming!

A couple other questions that popped into my head:
- The dealer said they usually drop the tranny pan (auto tranny) and shake out the screen. And re-install the pan with a new gasket. That doesn't sound too hard. Should I plan on replacing this 'screen' or just shake it out like the dealer? Is the gasket for the tranny pan widely available? How much tranny fluid will I effectively swap if I drop the pan? 60%? 70%

- To a complete fluid swap of all the drivetrain components, I need to address the front and rear dif, transmission itself, and transfer case, correct? How much fluid should I plan on buying?

Mobil1 is reasonable available around here, I'll probably just go with that for easy of finding. From what I've read so far, I can use the Mobil1 in all the drivetrain components?

thanks
mike

Adam F

Here's an easy way to flush without dropping the pan.

Drain about 4qts out of the pan. Refill with 4 qts
Drop the front skidplate and pull the hose from the passenger side of the radiator. Put hose in bucket. Run truck........4 qts out........4 new in.
4 qts out until it ran cherry red clear ..........4 new in.
Let out an extra 1/2 quart for a total of 12.5