Interior paint that actually works?
#1
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Interior paint that actually works?
Does anybody have any long-term experience with a do-it-yourself interior paint that is scratch and peel resistant?
#7
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The Krylon Fusion stuff works pretty well and is easy to find.
There is a spray dye available at autobody places that is better yet, I forget what the name of it is.
There is a spray dye available at autobody places that is better yet, I forget what the name of it is.
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#11
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I've been using Duplicolor Vinyl & Plastic Paint rattle cans on my black conversion. with excellent results. The key as others have said is preparation...
#1 the surface must be very clean and free of all oil/dust/cleanser residue...
start with a good stiff brush and scrub any loose stuff off, next using a soft scrub pad [one of those yellow foam/green pad kitchen thingies works well] and some very warm water and dish soap clean and scrub the surface, you may need the scrub brush again to really get down into the embossed grain.
Take it out and shake off the excess water and check for any grunge you may have missed... repeat wash steps [with fresh soap and water each time] until no visible dirt remains... allow to air dry...
#2 from now on you must work in a clean dust free area...put on latex/nitrile gloves and spray surface with electrical contact cleaner and wipe off... repeat soap and water wash... [to remove any residue lifted by the contact cleaner]...
shake off excess and allow to air dry... do not touch the item with ungloved hands until final paint process is complete... [to prevent surface contamination with skin oils]
#3 begin paint process shake can for at least 4-mins [can says 1 min but I've found better results with the longer shake time (better mix of paint and accelerant)] using light coats paint entire object including reverse side edges (this ensures a good "wrap" of paint around the edges which will help prevent flaking) allow item to dry completely [I bake it in the sunlight behind a window inside a heated garage myself] repeat paint process a second time the next day. Allow item to cure for at least 48 hrs before reinstalling and your surface will last...
I used this method on my dash and it has held up through 2 winters and 1 summer and been removed and installed twice with no peel/flake or cracking... indeed the surface has actually improved [there was a slight roughness detectable after painting that has since worn off].
As an unrelated note the black dash is actually cooler to the touch in the sun then the factory gray and the inside does not seem to get as hot as it used to either... go figure...
#1 the surface must be very clean and free of all oil/dust/cleanser residue...
start with a good stiff brush and scrub any loose stuff off, next using a soft scrub pad [one of those yellow foam/green pad kitchen thingies works well] and some very warm water and dish soap clean and scrub the surface, you may need the scrub brush again to really get down into the embossed grain.
Take it out and shake off the excess water and check for any grunge you may have missed... repeat wash steps [with fresh soap and water each time] until no visible dirt remains... allow to air dry...
#2 from now on you must work in a clean dust free area...put on latex/nitrile gloves and spray surface with electrical contact cleaner and wipe off... repeat soap and water wash... [to remove any residue lifted by the contact cleaner]...
shake off excess and allow to air dry... do not touch the item with ungloved hands until final paint process is complete... [to prevent surface contamination with skin oils]
#3 begin paint process shake can for at least 4-mins [can says 1 min but I've found better results with the longer shake time (better mix of paint and accelerant)] using light coats paint entire object including reverse side edges (this ensures a good "wrap" of paint around the edges which will help prevent flaking) allow item to dry completely [I bake it in the sunlight behind a window inside a heated garage myself] repeat paint process a second time the next day. Allow item to cure for at least 48 hrs before reinstalling and your surface will last...
I used this method on my dash and it has held up through 2 winters and 1 summer and been removed and installed twice with no peel/flake or cracking... indeed the surface has actually improved [there was a slight roughness detectable after painting that has since worn off].
As an unrelated note the black dash is actually cooler to the touch in the sun then the factory gray and the inside does not seem to get as hot as it used to either... go figure...
#13
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
i used a fusion plastic paint primer on the fan for the 88 4runner and the a chrome red pain and it made it look like a piece of red candy...very nice looking. i'm also redoing the interior on this truck and used the same primer on plastic trim pices and the a color-match enamel.....came out very well. as far as a soft and moveable surface i'd recommend as discussed above. for me, basically the prep work and plastic primer are what have done the job for the 4runner.
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