Valve Ajustment Tools Help!
09-06-2011, 07:11 PM
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Valve Ajustment Tools Help!
So my 22re valves are extremely noisy and I want to adjust them the thing is, I don't have any tools so I was wondering what tools do I need?
Do I need any extra parts? Like valve cover gasket( I don't even know if that exist). I am pretty newbie when it comes to trucks(or cars) but I want to learn.
I was looking at that tool: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
But I don't know if its 10mm or 12mm and I don't know if I need more then only this tool.
I am open to tool suggestions I just want the right thing to get the job done properly. Ty!
Do I need any extra parts? Like valve cover gasket( I don't even know if that exist). I am pretty newbie when it comes to trucks(or cars) but I want to learn.
I was looking at that tool: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
But I don't know if its 10mm or 12mm and I don't know if I need more then only this tool.
I am open to tool suggestions I just want the right thing to get the job done properly. Ty!
Last edited by Chocochat; 09-06-2011 at 07:44 PM.
09-06-2011, 07:44 PM
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You need:
-Feeler gauge with .008" and .012". Known by other names as well.
-12mm socket or open end wrench (socket is easiest)
-12mm open end or box end wrench (box end works best)-- used to unlock the lock nuts on the valve tappets
-flat head screw driver. I've found that a medium length one works best (about 6-10")
-19mm socket for the crank bolt
-spark plug socket (removing the spark plugs makes the job 10 times easier.
-tape and a sharpie to label hoses and whatever else you need since this is your first time. But, I have found that with age, the lines tend to form into the position they have been in for the last 16+ years so its pretty difficult to put the wrong hose on something. Also, they are of different lengths so they only reach what they should.
It would be a good idea to replace the valve cover gasket if you do not know the last time it was changed. Also, you might as well replace the TWO half moon plugs, one at each end of the head. Would be a good time to replace spark plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor if they look worn/are worn. Also, if you go to the dealership, get some black TOYOTA FIPG (Form In Place Gasket). It helps to seal the half moon plugs and the valve cover gasket.
-I also need a 13mm socket for a few bolts on top of the valve cover to take off the VSV plate. Its not necessary, but it makes it easier, IMO.
-Feeler gauge with .008" and .012". Known by other names as well.
-12mm socket or open end wrench (socket is easiest)
-12mm open end or box end wrench (box end works best)-- used to unlock the lock nuts on the valve tappets
-flat head screw driver. I've found that a medium length one works best (about 6-10")
-19mm socket for the crank bolt
-spark plug socket (removing the spark plugs makes the job 10 times easier.
-tape and a sharpie to label hoses and whatever else you need since this is your first time. But, I have found that with age, the lines tend to form into the position they have been in for the last 16+ years so its pretty difficult to put the wrong hose on something. Also, they are of different lengths so they only reach what they should.
It would be a good idea to replace the valve cover gasket if you do not know the last time it was changed. Also, you might as well replace the TWO half moon plugs, one at each end of the head. Would be a good time to replace spark plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor if they look worn/are worn. Also, if you go to the dealership, get some black TOYOTA FIPG (Form In Place Gasket). It helps to seal the half moon plugs and the valve cover gasket.
-I also need a 13mm socket for a few bolts on top of the valve cover to take off the VSV plate. Its not necessary, but it makes it easier, IMO.
Last edited by toyota4x4907; 09-06-2011 at 08:05 PM.
09-06-2011, 07:46 PM
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I was looking at that tool: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
But I don't know if its 10mm or 12mm and I don't know if I need more then only this tool.
Last edited by toyota4x4907; 09-06-2011 at 08:08 PM.
09-06-2011, 07:52 PM
#4
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if you use this, BE CAREFUL with it. it will be nearly impossible to remove in the future. imo, use some permatex rtv instead since it will actually come off without hacking at it with a razor blade for 20 minute stretches
09-06-2011, 07:59 PM
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aren't they all 12mm?
Yes. You made me double check on my torn apart engine.
if you use this, BE CAREFUL with it. it will be nearly impossible to remove in the future. imo, use some permatex rtv instead since it will actually come off without hacking at it with a razor blade for 20 minute stretches
Thats why you use it sparingly
Yes. You made me double check on my torn apart engine.
if you use this, BE CAREFUL with it. it will be nearly impossible to remove in the future. imo, use some permatex rtv instead since it will actually come off without hacking at it with a razor blade for 20 minute stretches
Thats why you use it sparingly
Last edited by toyota4x4907; 09-06-2011 at 08:05 PM.
09-06-2011, 08:15 PM
#6
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You want to use the sealant around the half moon seals, not the entire valve cover to clarify.
If you google 22re valve lash adjustment, there are several write-ups. I liked the one in my Haynes manual.
This all will add up, but just think, you'll have everything for the next time around.
If you google 22re valve lash adjustment, there are several write-ups. I liked the one in my Haynes manual.
This all will add up, but just think, you'll have everything for the next time around.
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09-07-2011, 03:56 AM
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A lot of people debate on whether FIPG is necessary if using a Felpro rubber gasket set...I don't use it and don't have any leaks, but to each their own. If some are using it and it's not hurting, maybe that is the better way to go? (insurance)
Not necessarily for this job, but if you're going to be working on your truck, you probably should have:
- the Haynes manual. Download the FSM.
- at least a metric socket set, a decent one. Various length extensions and a universal joint for it. Get a set of deep sockets as well, 10mm to 20mm is common. You will use sockets the most, so spend well and wisely! Quality counts; sometimes you only get 1 chance.
- a big-*** breaker bar, at least 16" in length, for stubborn bolts
- combination crescent/box end wrenches, metric. 8mm to 20mm
- pliers (flat and needle-nose), vise grips, screwdrivers, putty knife, hammer (reg and ball peen, maybe a 6 lb. one, too)
- set of feeler gauges - the flat kind, plus the spark plug 'wire' type with adjusting tool
- big can of PB Blaster!
That'll get you started and make working on the vehicle more enjoyable! The right tools for the job make the difference between a happy and timely outcome, or being really disappointed that you screwed something all up and have to pay a mechanic to fix the mess you made!
Not necessarily for this job, but if you're going to be working on your truck, you probably should have:
- the Haynes manual. Download the FSM.
- at least a metric socket set, a decent one. Various length extensions and a universal joint for it. Get a set of deep sockets as well, 10mm to 20mm is common. You will use sockets the most, so spend well and wisely! Quality counts; sometimes you only get 1 chance.
- a big-*** breaker bar, at least 16" in length, for stubborn bolts
- combination crescent/box end wrenches, metric. 8mm to 20mm
- pliers (flat and needle-nose), vise grips, screwdrivers, putty knife, hammer (reg and ball peen, maybe a 6 lb. one, too)
- set of feeler gauges - the flat kind, plus the spark plug 'wire' type with adjusting tool
- big can of PB Blaster!
That'll get you started and make working on the vehicle more enjoyable! The right tools for the job make the difference between a happy and timely outcome, or being really disappointed that you screwed something all up and have to pay a mechanic to fix the mess you made!
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