gweelie

This weekend I got my hands on a timing light and decided to check the timing on my 3vz-e. Turns out the timing was way advanced, so I set it to the manufacturers specifications and now my 4runner is driving terribly. above 3500 rpms it sputters and struggles going uphill. I got home and re-checked the timing and it still is at the recommended timing. Any ideas on where to go from here? Thank you

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Did you install the timing check jumper? If so, did you notice if the idle speed/base timing change when doing so? If not, make sure to use the jumper and test the TPS idle setting if you see no change with the jumper:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

gweelie

Well.... I'm a little embarrassed to say it, but I shorted the connection with a paperclip. I've used this method before to check c.e.l. codes on my 22r and it worked great. Is it possible my Mc gyver like mentality has failed me?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Paper clip works fine, but if the TPS is not adjusted right, the jumper will not work like it is supposed to:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting

gweelie

Im 90% certain the tps is set right. I've struggled with it in the past... getting the values you have laid out, but I have what I believe to be the correct settings. I have limited available tools, but now im worried there was some engine troubles previous to buying this truck that were "masked" by advanced timing and other inappropriately tuned things. I am a completed noob when it comes to the inner working of engine mechanics, bbut im desperately trying to learn, so all help I greatly appreciated. This website has been such a valuable resource fro me. Thanks again.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Easy test for TPS is to let the engine warm up and idle, then insert the timing jumper and see if anything changes. RPM typically drops a little and timing is retarded a little, on the 22RE it typically drops from 12 to 5 BTDC. Not sure what the values are on the V6.

gweelie

Ok, thanks, I will try that for sure. Is there a chance of a defective throttle body affecting the tps setting? Per your guide, I have set everything as close to specifications as possible with questionable results on the tps resistance. when the gas peddle is applied, the engine returns to its regular idle at 1100 rpms, but if I were to push back on the throttle linkage, the engine resumes a constant idle at 800 rpms. I've considered overtightened linkage or anything along those lines. Is it a possibility?

gweelie

I tried inserting the jumper after warm up and had no change in rpms. Im assuming this means the tps is set incorrectly, if it is, I cant get it to achieve its correct settings. Could a tb fault cause this?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

It could be if there is something in the TB that is preventing the TPS from turning all the way closed. Some times there can be dirt/grease between the TB and TPS that can cause this, or the throttle stop screw might be turned out too far preventing the throttle from fully closing.

gweelie

Im removing the tb again tonight and bringing it to a guy im working for that has years of experience with dragsters, hoping he at least has the knowledge and ability to correct my wrong doing. I set my stop screw according to your guide so I'll assume that is correct, but like I had mentioned earlier, with a push back on the linkage, my idle dropped making me wonder about some other sort of blockage.

gweelie

With throttle body off, I followed the simplified tps check referenced in the chiltons manual (.57mm gauge shows resistance, .85mm gauge shows no continuity) and it checked out. Any ideas?