Suspension
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Aberdeen, SD
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Suspension
Hello,
I purchased a 1988 4x4 22REC with 120,000 miles that had been sitting for a long time. The rear wheels were locked up and the bed was badly eaten with cancer (frame is good). I replaced the following: fuel tank, sending unit, fuel lines, rotor, cap, spark plug wires,brake lines, rear brakes, the bed, shocks, steering stablizer, wheels and tires, muffler and other things.
Bottom line is, it's running great. My question is should I replace all the body bushing and suspension bushings (sway bar bushing, etc) with some sort of kit say from prothane? How do I know if my tie rod ends are bad or what. The shockes were shot. I'm going to take it in for a front end alignment, but would like to replace things if needed before the alignment. When I have the truck on my lift, the front end appears to bowed out at the bottom of the tires, which looks like it would make the tires wear on the inside. Suggestions are much appreciated.
Thank you,
Kelly
Aberdeen, SD
I purchased a 1988 4x4 22REC with 120,000 miles that had been sitting for a long time. The rear wheels were locked up and the bed was badly eaten with cancer (frame is good). I replaced the following: fuel tank, sending unit, fuel lines, rotor, cap, spark plug wires,brake lines, rear brakes, the bed, shocks, steering stablizer, wheels and tires, muffler and other things.
Bottom line is, it's running great. My question is should I replace all the body bushing and suspension bushings (sway bar bushing, etc) with some sort of kit say from prothane? How do I know if my tie rod ends are bad or what. The shockes were shot. I'm going to take it in for a front end alignment, but would like to replace things if needed before the alignment. When I have the truck on my lift, the front end appears to bowed out at the bottom of the tires, which looks like it would make the tires wear on the inside. Suggestions are much appreciated.
Thank you,
Kelly
Aberdeen, SD
#2
Registered User
Wiggle and cycle the suspension and check for loose tie rods and ball joints. If you miss anything, they'll just make you fix it before they can align it.
If the bushing appear to be smushed and/or cracked, then replace them.
Dont forget to change the tranny/tcase/ and diff fluid too.
If the bushing appear to be smushed and/or cracked, then replace them.
Dont forget to change the tranny/tcase/ and diff fluid too.
#3
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Thanks. I went through everything and change all fluids. I just replaced thermostat that is 180 degrees. Tonight it is supposed to be -18. The vehicle (heater) never feels like it gets hot enough. I also blocked half the radiator with card board (did not help)Any thoughts on going to a 195 degree thermostat?
#4
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Stock t-stat is 190F, so that should help w/ the heater output:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat
Also, consider back flushing the heater core (disconnect hoses and run a garden hose in the outlet tube and flow water until it runs out the inlet tube). Also make sure the heater valve on the firewall is opening fully with the heat control slider in the cab.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat
Also, consider back flushing the heater core (disconnect hoses and run a garden hose in the outlet tube and flow water until it runs out the inlet tube). Also make sure the heater valve on the firewall is opening fully with the heat control slider in the cab.
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