4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yes, it sounds like you starter solenoid, easy test is to open it up and look inside. If the copper contacts look like this:


They are the problem, about $5 to replace. The problem with a test like Autozone did is that they hook it up to their test machine and test the starter under no load. When you check in in your truck, you are testing it with your wiring and hooked up to your engine. And as you note, sometimes your starter works, some times it doesn't. At the auto parts store, they plug it in and if it works, it is "good". Same thing goes at many rebuild shops I suspect. If they test a used starter and it "works", I think they often just clean it up, paint it and put it in a new box and sell it as a rebuilt.

RAD4Runner

El Chino, do you mean you have 12V here?
This wire carries 12V from starter relay to starter solenoid (piggybacked on starter motor).

If you hear/feel you starter solenoid thunk when trying to start but starter motor does not crank, yes most likely your solenoid contacts as 4crawler says^^.

El Chino

thankyou RAD4runner and 4crawler for the help...yes i have 12 volts there RAD4runner ..so i went out and put the starter solenoid to the test it was good ..i had 12 volts everywhere im supposed to..so then i got to thinking ..i had replaced the fuel pump cuz i was told by a mechanic that was my problem..so my uncle said check to see if your getting fuel into your engined ..so we checked and i didnt have fuel..so there i go checking all the wires and everything was good..so then we hooked up the fuel pump straight to the battery and i had fuel ..truck turned on.. it was kind of hard figuring out where the starter relay was ..finally found it took it out put it back on and my truck turned on..idk why maybe relay was loose or is going out.. ohh and i had ignition problems because i had killed my battery from all the previous times trying to start it..sorry for the long explanation but just wanted to share my story..

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Might want to try the fuel pump test jumper instead:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

If that makes it work, check the Circuit Opening Relay:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation

RAD4Runner

Most welcome.

So next time it acts up (starter motor no turning) listen/feel to starter solenoid thunk or not and let us know.

Please clarify what the real problem is:

1. If the starter motor would not turn, then troubleshoot according to this thread.
2. If the starter motor turns but engine does not fire because you do not have fuel, then troubleshoot per 4crawler's post on COR and Fuel pump test connector.

.
You took out the starter relay and it worked when you put it back? Then problem is intermittent. If solenoid thunks but starter motor does not turn, could be bad solenoid contacts like 4crawler says.
If you only hear C.O.R. and starter relay click but soeloid does not thunk, could be caused by flaw I explained in my sig. No matter what you do to your starter/solenoid, you still need to fix the flaw if you were to do a robust fix.

No worries; we all learn from this.

El Chino

i didnt do the fuel pump test jumper since my runner is now turning on at first crank..but i did test the COR ..i opened it up and it was doing its job ..it would pop up and click everytime i turned the key...but it was strange how just taking the EFI relay and putting it right back on fixed the problem..maybe it was loose and i diddnt catch it when i removed it.. i dont know but seemed to work ..i will keep the fuel pump test jumper in mind in case it acts up again..thanks for

El Chino

sorry bout that..the starter solenoid did thunck and i felt it so it was good..and my problem was a fuel problem..checked to see if i was getting gas on the hose that connects to the fuel filter i believe is its name..dindt get gas so thats wnen we tested the COR ..cor was fine so the relay that i pulled out and put back in and truck started up fine with no problems was a round grey relay located on the drivers side under my fusebox..looked it up and said it was the EFI filter..truck is running good so far..oh so i dont have a cranking problem it was the battery running low..since everything is running good so far you think i should fix the wiring to the flaw @ rad4runner..ill apologize again if i dont make sense ..but all i learned about the relays wiring and fuel pump ..i learned from reading posts on this forum..before i didnt kno nothing not even what a starter was..im a newbie but i hope to llearn alot more from you guys

RAD4Runner

Good to know that you're understanding your classic vehicle rather than just relying on others.

Yes, still need to verify if you have the "flawed" stock circuit and fix it when possible. Strong battery & new parts merely mask the problem. If your starting wiring is stock (flawed), you're sending 12Amps needed to energize starter solenoid through you ignition switch ST1 contacts every time you crank. Fixing the flaw will help extend life your ignition switch contacts, and guarantee you'll never have the infamous C.O.R.-clicking only problem.
To verify if you have flawed stock circuit, refer to this (starter relay connector):

El Chino

okay thanks i will check for the 12 volts when i get off work..now when i use the mulimeter{just baught it) which end do i test with black or red and which goes to battery..just so im properly using it

El Chino

never mind i got it..ive got 12 volts where i should according to your post above ..
thinking of fixing the flaw sometime soon..gonna buy the stuff i need .read the other posts you have about fixing the flaw carefully and get on it one of this days..thanks for sharing that information RAd4runner..will keep updates when i get to fixing the flaw

RAD4Runner

Cool! Enjoy your truck.