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Old 07-17-2008, 05:34 PM
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MAF Connector

I took the runner to get smogged today. Failed miserably. Guy at shop says it may be a bad MAF sensor. So I unplug MAF when I get home and this is what I see.



Is it just me or am I missing a prong inside there. If I am how will affect the truck and how do I fix it w/o breaking the bank. Local dealership says that they don't sell stuff like this unless I want to buy the whole wiring harness at $1900.

Any help?
Old 07-17-2008, 05:36 PM
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iirc its not supposed to have a conector in there. Count the number of wires in the harness, then compare to the number of connectors.

6 is correct.
Old 07-18-2008, 10:48 PM
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Have you retrieved any codes? A bad MAF/AFM will likely generate a code.

A new MAF/AFM is $pendy! Depending on your location, you may want to harvest one at a Pick-n-Pull-type yard. A 3VZE one may be hard to find, but '77-'84 BMW's use the same MAF/AFM.
Old 07-19-2008, 10:33 PM
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Codes

I haven't got any codes, no check engine light, nothin but triple digits on the on the old smog o meter. I'll post em tommorow if it helps. I put in all new evap and air lines today and a new o2 sensor before the cat. Hope it helps.

BTW: thanks for the info ref the bmw MAF's
Old 07-20-2008, 12:50 AM
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Are you aware that the ECU will store codes that do not trigger the CEL?
Old 07-20-2008, 12:10 PM
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Did not know that.

How can I check those codes? Are there any that I should watch out for related to this problem?
Old 07-20-2008, 02:08 PM
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Retrieve them (use a jumper) just like any codes. If no codes are stored, the CEL will just blink continuously.

22, 23, 31, 32 are codes possibly related to AFM/MAS.
Old 07-21-2008, 09:11 AM
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MAF checked

I pulled the codes the garage mechanic way (paperclip) and the CEL just blinked continuously. I will take that as a good thing. Thanks for the help.

These are my numbers from the smog check, before I put in new air lines and a new O2 sensor. Anything else I should look for?

Old 07-21-2008, 12:15 PM
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That's DIRTY!!

Have you checked the basics? I'd suggest a basic compression test, spark plug inspection, and if feasible, CO and HC levels of coolant (sniffer at radiator cap - checks for head gasket failure).

Surely, your 4Rnr is suffering some performance loss...
Old 07-22-2008, 08:02 AM
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See anything

I pulled the plugs and verified that they were gapped at 32 thousands. These are what they look like. FYI they have about 5 hours of runtime on them since I rebuilt the motor.






What should I be looking for with the plugs?
Old 07-22-2008, 02:28 PM
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Plugs look new. It's difficult to believe they came from the same (Gross Polluter) engine.

Your Smog Check numbers are astounding! Not just a Gross Polluter, but a Egregious Flagrant Gross Polluter - with CO and HC 5 to 10 times the Max allowed!

It's gotta be running poorly! Is there a potato stuck in the intake plenum?
Old 07-22-2008, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by anotherjeff
Plugs look new. It's difficult to believe they came from the same (Gross Polluter) engine.

Your Smog Check numbers are astounding! Not just a Gross Polluter, but a Egregious Flagrant Gross Polluter - with CO and HC 5 to 10 times the Max allowed!

It's gotta be running poorly! Is there a potato stuck in the intake plenum?
Thanks for breakin out the thesaurus. Anyway, it doesn't feel like it is running that bad. Maybe I'm missing something, but i figured with the big tires,it would be a slug anyway.

I'm gonna do a compression check on Friday and also see if i'm getting exhaust gases into my antifreeze. I will keep you up to date. Thanks again for all your info.

BTW: what's your take on puttin SEAFOAM through the motor?
Old 07-22-2008, 11:22 PM
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it looks like you are running way rich with those numbers, but it's odd that the plugs still look that good. I would have expected them to be black.

unless you've regeared, you also might want to find a set of tires/rims you can borrow before you go next time. big tires put a load on the engine and might make the ECU add more gas to compensate, but I'm pretty sure that's not your main issue

If you want to read up on what all the numbers mean, this is an excellent source (and it's even from Toyota)
Emission Analysis
Old 07-23-2008, 02:54 AM
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I had a set of stock rollers on the rear when getting it smogged (they refused to do it with the TSL's on cause it's dangerous). Thanks for the link. Very interesting reading. Hope it helps me figure this out.
Old 07-26-2008, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by anotherjeff
That's DIRTY!!

Have you checked the basics? I'd suggest a basic compression test, spark plug inspection, and if feasible, CO and HC levels of coolant (sniffer at radiator cap - checks for head gasket failure).

Surely, your 4Rnr is suffering some performance loss...

So the sniffer test showed no signs of exhaust gasses getting into the antifreeze. Here are my compression numbers.

#1- 148lbs #2-150lbs #3-150 #4-155lbs #5-150 #6-150lbs

So now, I'm thinking maybe one of my injectors is bad and it isn't burning all the fuel getting put into it. Is there as way to test the injectors or should I just buy 6 new ones?
Old 07-26-2008, 09:02 AM
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If you have a fuel pressure gauge hook that up and make sure you have good pressure first, I don't know what spec is for your truck, but it shouldn't be under or over with the engine running. Shut off the engine and make sure it holds pressure. If it starts to drop immediately you might have a leaking injector. Pull the fuel rail off with the injectors still attached, disconnect the ignition coil and have someone crank over the engine. Do all the injectors give a nice sharp misty spray (that's a good spray)? do any of them dribble or shoot a solid stream? stop cranking the engine, with pressure still in the fuel rail, are any of the injectors leaking or dribbling? those are the ones to replace
Old 07-26-2008, 12:50 PM
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Also, over the past couple of weeks, the 4runner has started to have an idle issue. It will idle at 800-900 rpm for a few minutes, then stumble and idle at aroun 400rpm for about 10 seconds, then regain normal idle. It doesn't do this on a consistent basis, but just intermittently. Any ideas.

Could any of these problems be related to valve lash or do the valves adjust themselves (hydralic)?
Old 07-26-2008, 01:04 PM
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Back to the MAF and TPS? (or EGR?) Loose electrical connectors; poor grounds...

Could the smog test equipment be faulty? (pretty doubtful, huh?) I'm STILL having a problem with those clean plugs and that dirty test. And, NO codes...

Valve adjustment is via shims; a real pain, and usually unnecessary.
Old 07-26-2008, 04:27 PM
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Hey, anotherjeff, I think the plugs might be so clean because they have about 6-8 hours of total run time on them. I replaced them after I did the headgasket.

Another thought: could all the antifreeze going through the cat cause my truck to piss dirty that bad?
Old 07-28-2008, 09:16 PM
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From talking to different people about my problem, I'm gathering that my issue may be that one or more of my fuel injectors is over injecting, causing a boatload of unburned fuel to be shove out the tail pipe.

Are there any concerns to be had with refurbished fuel injectors over buying new? I figure i'm gonna put some in, I just want to save money if possible.


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