ashamsuddin

My little 22R pickup is my project as I learn to work on cars. I've fixed it up, painted it, and now all that's missing is AC for it to be a really comfortable ride. How hard is it to add an AC compressor? It's the tying it into the current air flow system that I would be scratching my head about. I'm assuming the compressor and new belt would be the simple part. It's a manual if that matters.

85TurboRunner

I've never had a yota with AC but I doubt its too hard if you have all the parts.

Probably more time consuming then anything.

I would think but don't actually know if you need to find a heater core from a truck that came factory with AC and of course the lines and that piece that goes in front of the radiator.

Try finding some pics online or maybe even someone local with an AC equipped truck that you can look at.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Your best bet may be finding a totaled rig to rape. One that had working AC would be preferable. I've not done this, but even restoring my AC was a bit of work.

You'll need a condensor/all the gear in the dash(probably the most difficult part of the job)/NEW Drier/compressor(you can re-seal any good yard one for cheap and just be sure to get one with a good clutch.....NOT CHEAP)/2.68# of 134A or R12(I went R12 and have enough to last me another 15 years, stored... I also did all new Denso O-rings-there are 4 different sizes needed- and new drier, resealed my compressor and replaced my broken 'AC/idle up valve that I'd broken'). My seals were all fairly good besides the 4 large ones on the compressor and the ones right as it goes into the firewall/dash to the air box.

It's a job, but there's TONS of threads on here and elsewhere that will guide you through it. Just plan, if you don't grab used stuff, on spending a pretty penny. A rebuilt compressor is around 195$-250$/Condensor around 165$/Drier around 50$ from www.dealerdirectparts.com (You NEED a brand new Drier if you do this, PERIOD/Ask around)/R134A is around 40$ for all you'll need/... And you need to do a vacuum test before adding the fluid/oil because if it's leaking, ANYWHERE, you'll waste the fluid and quickly destroy the drier(The drier should not be put on till the very last, then suck the system down and be sure it holds a decent amount of vacuum pressure for a couple hours w/out dropping.... then run it while filling and you're good to go)..... I do trips through the Sierras and Sequoias and Apple Valley desert all the time.... I WOULD NOT want to do those trips at least getting there without Air(400+ miles in 120*F weather? YEAH, NO THANKS! lol.

I could be messing up on some of that, and as I've said, I've not 'added' AC..... But in part, your rig is set up for it, you just have to 'make purchases and make holes where they've done it from the factory' and keep EVERYTHING very clean, as those systems do NOT like o2 or dirt in them. Stay away from the "R134A Kit/with Sealer", too... It plugs the TINY ports that enter into the CABIN where the pressure is created, as well as in the condensor... EVERY AC PROFESSIONAL has told me this... "Stay away from that 'sealer' stuff and make sure it's 'SEALED WELL' so you don't even need sealer. That residue from that stuff will KILL these systems."

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ding-c-214533/

nothingbetter

Hey chef, r134a and r12 are not interchangeable. So using either or is not an option, you NEED to use the kind that came factory in that system. A very important part you missed is the oil that has to be added to the system. Without it, you'll wreck stuff.

To the OP. Read up on how it works before you take on the project. The only way I would add the a/c is if you can get a complete system off a truck, that is proven to not have any holes. Putting it together piece by piece will cost a huge amount. Say the truck in the wrecking yard is a front end hit, the condenser is cracked, that means moisture is in the system. which means the dessicant bags in the receiver/dryer or your accumulator (depends if its orifice valve of txv system) will be full of moisture and need to be replaced.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Nothingbetter...

Yeah, I figured he'd know what I meant by "I chose to go with R12", but I should have elaborated. I mentioned the R134A more than that because that's what most go with, rather than getting the right seals(which are also different for R12) or the right Oil on EBay(which is also different, indeed). AND, my system was actually 1.65#, IIRC... But getting started, he'll need the entire system and it will have been evacuated(can't see how it wouldn't be)So he'd be starting with all new seals, etc.(You can get the ENTIRE kit at Napa for around 40$. All the retrofittings and seals and oil for the R134A is included... Just not the 'freeze juice', lol. That's separate, and should be last, as you want the oil in there before anything, obviously)... And yes, you're right about the 'wrecked' aspect as well. That condensor would be the first to go in a front end wreck... The drier needs to be changed no matter what. But even if it's compromised where it's been open to air for a long time... Yeah, not good, you're right on that. That's why I mentioned finding a whole rig that's left for dead.... It would usually be cheaper than buying the parts in pieces off Ebay or a Yard with a counter that pulls em for ya... Plus, you'd have everything else to part out(However, yeah, that's not always or even often possible for people to store or have space to part out a rig).

I chose R12 because I had a line on it for fairly cheap, I had run it before that as well on a recharge in 2001(shhhhh), lol... and since they're not compatible, I didn't want to chance not getting it all out(I did it myself with a HD vacuum pump, etc.) Plus, well, I felt it was nice and ice, lasting longer as well, compared to my other rigs I've had the 134 in. I got the oil fairly cheap from the same guy on Ebay. Got the Denso R12 0-rings from my buddy AND the dealer(yep, they actually still had some). Got the drier from www.dealerdirectparts.com... But wow, 'adding it'... I admire him for taking that on.... Doesn't seem to be an 'easy' job. Doable, but not easy.

Don't buy a compromised system, OP, whatever you do... Make sure the compressor is ok and clutch is operational/activating with voltage(you CAN bench test it). Even listen for bearing knock when you turn it quickly with a belt(Yes, the belt you wear, lol... I've put mine around a pulley all the way w/12 volts on the AC clutch and pulled it. As it unravels it gives it a good spin. Best bet is to get a rebuilt one, as it would be guaranteed, ya know? Doesn't mean it will be better than an OEM donor... But hey, lifetime warranty is a good thing, lol. As Nothingbetter said, ... NOTHING is 'unimportant' in this system... Any one seal could rob you of all your oil or freeze gas QUICK! That's hard on the compressor and a waste of money. So the "Hold vacuum on it for a few hours" test is very important, because if the compressor is good and the system holds high vacuum... then you will pretty much know you're not going to leak, ya know?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The hardest part labor wise is swapping out the heater box with one that has a evaporator.

Then while it is all apart I would also put a new heater core in.

In this case because of all the work involved I think I would go with a new evaporator.

Yes it can be done yes it can get quite expensive

technojunkie

A few years ago I found a late 80's dealer A/C kit at a flea market. I already had my engine out to replace a spun bearing and the crank. Without instructions it took me a full afternoon to puzzle out how it went together mechanically. It wasn't difficult, just time consuming to figure out what clips went where and how the hoses were supposed to be routed.

The real time consuming part was wiring in the a/c amplifier. The seller claimed the kit was for an 84, but when I traced out the circuit on the amplifier it did not match the pinout. (I think it ended up being an 86) I'm pretty sure that I spent the better part of a weekend tracing lines and soldering wires to properly connect everything.


Actually the part of the ductwork containing the heater core is left alone. There is a piece of ductwork that sits to the side of the heater core that you pull out, and the evaporator box replaces it. It's not difficult to replace, but it is a tight fit.

Your basic parts list should be as follows: (confirm with the FSM for your model; check ChefYota's sig)

• Compressor/bracket
• Evaporator (comes in a piece of plastic ductwork)(the a/c amplifer is mounted in this)
• wiring to connect amplifier to vehicle harness (should be kinda like a y with 3 plugs)
• Condenser
• Refrigerant Tubes/hoses
• NEW receiver/drier
• Associated clips for mounting and securing the tubes/hoses

ashamsuddin

So much knowledge! This forum is awesome. My next question is, what years of pickups can I scavenge parts from? Since this engine was used in cars as well, could I take parts from any car that has a 22R engine? How about 22RE?

Discombobulated

I just did the conversion about a month ago and it wasn't too bad BUT I have access to a toyota only yard with guys that pulled everything I needed for the upgrade. Total costs after everything was about 800 bucks only because I had to buy a reman from advanced auto due to the clutches on EVERY compressor I got from the yard were toast. It can be a can of worms if you are like me and new to toyota's but I had tons of help all the way through. But it was worth every penny

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

.... EXACTLY! Granted, I started with the whole set up.... BUT, it still cost me a couple hundy to get it all fresh/charged and properly evacuated, etc. But, the bottom line, ... I COULDN'T TAKE THE DESERT TRIPS any more without AIR CONDITIONING, PERIOD! lol. 110*F+ for 200 miles or so... HOLY CRAPULA, ...I did it for years in a Cressida with no AC and no money to fix it(I shoulda tried, now that I see what's involved in 'fixing' rather than adding, but meh, lol)... But NEVER AGAIN if I have anything to say about it! lol.

I hear ya on the clutch issues, D! Luckily, mine was empty of R12 but NEVER ran dry of oil... and I didn't continue to try and run it when it was not pumpin cold! lol.

Best wishes, OP.... As I said, bring some jumpers and test the clutches on ANY you look at... and then MANDATORY; 'Change the seals on the compressor'.... That's where the main leak in my system was... In fact, I can't even be SURE it was leaking anywhere else.. But by the looks and feel of the seals I removed.... it would have eventually leaked at the condensor and couple hoses(like the ones into the CABIN). Many old school AC guys with shops, when you tell them how you're doing this, will look 'in the back', if you know what I mean, for some Denso Seals, etc. I got lucky like that... And the guy even helped me charge it.... EVEN OFFERED SOME R12 OIL if I needed it during the process.

As Discombobulated said, ..."WORTH EVERY PENNY", even if I DID have to spend near a grand!