22re crankshaft removal
#3
I've re pulled the motor already, spun the #3 bearing and am trying to replace the crank from the bottom so as not to have to disassemble the top end again, but if I pull the timing cover that breaks the seal on the head gasket right? Therefor I have to take the head off anyway to replace it? What a nightmare... Any advice?
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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If you've pulled the engine, remove the timing cover and you'll be good to go. Of course you'll need to remove the timing chain anyway, but once that's done you can do what you need. Remove the spark plugs so its easier to turn the motor over to get to all the bearing caps. And most important, mark your caps!!!!! Stressing the later.
#6
10-4 got her out, time to re clean everything attach pistons to new rods and crank, throw it back in and pray to god it works right this time... Its heartbreaking to break such great new seals...thanks for the quick replys all, much obliged
Last edited by 86DLXrunner; 04-20-2013 at 06:04 PM.
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#8
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You're better off just starting from square one and getting it done correctly. Trying to save a gasket is going to cause a ton of extra work trying to get it together in such a wierd way.
It sucks but, it would suck even more if you screwed up trying to cut corners and had to do it yet again.
It sucks but, it would suck even more if you screwed up trying to cut corners and had to do it yet again.
#10
I picked the thing up from a farmyard for 600 bucks, it was rusting away in a corner, got it home and rebuilt it, when I took it appart I found the #3 crankshaft bearing was completely missing, upon rebuilding I now know that with that missing bearing the crank got worn down, so I got another crank and some new rods, he head on it is warped, but my machine shop told me it would work, should I just buy a new motor at this point or buy the head gasket and swap the #3 rod and crankshaft out?
#11
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I would let a good Toy experienced machine shop check it out. See if the head can be milled flat, and if the crank/block bearing journals are all good, and that the rods are still in good condition. It's not a difficult engine, but its not a lawn mower engine either... Although its close to the same power output it seems....
Last edited by rokblok; 04-22-2013 at 01:28 PM.
#14
Thanks fishguy77, I talked to ted from engnbldr on the phone, told him I was ready to put the money down for a performance head with os valves, he recommended shaving my current head and trying the one I have first, he's a good man, his whole familys been very helpful through this build I trust he's trying to save me time and money
Last edited by 86DLXrunner; 04-22-2013 at 07:27 PM.
#15
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Yea free dealing with him I don't want to deal with anyone else. Good guy good company and knows 22r motors backwards and forwards and probably dreams of them. Priceless to find someone like that who's honest. Good luck let us know what it turns out to be new head or resurface.
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