yet another weird brake problem
#2
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Are you sure your bearings aren't super sloppy?
Pads are kept snugly in place with all the hardware intact?
Everything got bolted down tightly after you did the brakes?
Pads are kept snugly in place with all the hardware intact?
Everything got bolted down tightly after you did the brakes?
#4
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This doesn't apply to yours most likely. I think you have 2 or 4 piston calipers that don't slide.
That's why I was thinking you had very loose bearings. A big movement from the rotor could compress your piston(s) in a caliper and a loose hub could move more upon steering.
#5
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The loose bearings are about the only thing that makes sense to me. It also sounds like your calipers are sticking.
Since the master cyl. is new, that should be fine, but to test the cylinder vs. the calipers, you can raise one of the front tires off the ground. Crack the bleeder loose, and see if that wheel loosens up any. If it does, you know the master is holding pressure for some reason, or you have a collapsed / pinched brake line.
I've seen this happen only a couple of times (the collapsed brake line), and they were on GM trucks both times. The line collapsed internally, pressure could get past when the brake was applied, but then the line would hold some pressure once release, sticking the caliper somewhat.
The rest of your problem sounds very strange indeed. Definately keep us posted on your findings.
Since the master cyl. is new, that should be fine, but to test the cylinder vs. the calipers, you can raise one of the front tires off the ground. Crack the bleeder loose, and see if that wheel loosens up any. If it does, you know the master is holding pressure for some reason, or you have a collapsed / pinched brake line.
I've seen this happen only a couple of times (the collapsed brake line), and they were on GM trucks both times. The line collapsed internally, pressure could get past when the brake was applied, but then the line would hold some pressure once release, sticking the caliper somewhat.
The rest of your problem sounds very strange indeed. Definately keep us posted on your findings.
#6
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Also shooting in the dark here, but there's an 'idle up device' (check FSM p. SR-26, Power Steering Description section) that increases the idle a little while you're turning the wheel in order to supply the P/S pump with a little extra power.
This could affect the brakes, which are powered by manifold vacuum, which in turn varies depending on engine speed.
Try to listen to engine RPMs and see whether there's a change at the same time the brakes do their funky thing.
This could affect the brakes, which are powered by manifold vacuum, which in turn varies depending on engine speed.
Try to listen to engine RPMs and see whether there's a change at the same time the brakes do their funky thing.
#7
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you have rear anti-lock?
and when you turn the wheel the pressure in the pedal is increased?
if this is the case it is due to the fact that the power steering boosts the brakes, this is called "hydro-boost" or "hydro-assit" and is a system found in many heavy duty chevys, well how do you stop it ? well two things to minimize its side effects
1) bleed the crap out of the brakes all of them uses the fsm for correct procedure
2) bleed the power steering per the procedure in the fsm
that should solve the issue
and when you turn the wheel the pressure in the pedal is increased?
if this is the case it is due to the fact that the power steering boosts the brakes, this is called "hydro-boost" or "hydro-assit" and is a system found in many heavy duty chevys, well how do you stop it ? well two things to minimize its side effects
1) bleed the crap out of the brakes all of them uses the fsm for correct procedure
2) bleed the power steering per the procedure in the fsm
that should solve the issue
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#9
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I do second the notion to bleed the brakes again, following the FSM procedure.
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