VERY LOUD TAPPING When enging started.
#21
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I do have experience with lucas just not in an engine. I used lucas for a front diff with a slight leak, and all it did was drip goo all over my driveway. I dont understand how some people swear by it, and its quite expensive considering its just straight petroleum oil with no additives (if i remember correctly)
#22
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I have used it for the past 12 years in my own and customers' vehicles (when I had the shop) and have never had a problem with it. The only time I have used more than a quart was when trying to milk a little more time out of something with a rod knock. Notice that most of the people who have said don't use it have nothing to back up that advice. The cavitization with trapping the air is only when testing it straight, not cut like it is supposed to (I believe the recommended ratio is 20% or so Lucas). I have seen it work in the real world, not just in tests. I don't care whether you try it or not, all I'm saying is using 1 quart for one oil change cycle will not hurt your truck. Like it, keep it. Don't like it, change it. I still think you're going to have to live with a second or 2 tap on cold start anyway regardless.
You know, I completely forgot to ask, what oil do you run in it now?
You know, I completely forgot to ask, what oil do you run in it now?
#23
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Well, that's because it's not a stop leak. It's generally for quieting noises when regular oil alone can't. I have used it in diffs too but that was because they were roaring from bad carrier bearings and it quieted it down and lasted several years more (it was an old shop truck). I can't help it if you used a product intended for another purpose and when it didn't fix that problem you say it won't work for anything (remember, we're talking about valve noise, not leaks). I'm just saying be careful about misinforming someone because you don't have enough experience with it.
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Thank for this info. I think it is the best info on this product so far. also you had asked me what oil do you run in it now? I'm cant answer this at this point, cause the shop that did the job put all new oil in it. so that is my answer. But I would like to no what you sujuest. As I said, it is a 95 runner 3.0 auto.
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#27
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No problem man. I would be willing to bet it has the cheapest petroleum oil you can buy in it right now if you didn't specify anything to the shop. What were you running before? Petroleum or synthetic? I know you said new heads, TB and all but how many miles on the block? Any leaks? If you have no leaks I would swap to synthetic. You could use Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc, whichever sounds good (everyone seems to have their preferred brand). If you have existing leaks (I need a rear main seal so mine is staying with dino oil until I do that) I personally like Castrol GTX, 10W30 flavor in the winter, 20W50 in the summer.
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Well, the reason I use 20W50 in the summer is I get a little bit of a rattle when it's really hot with 10W30 because of how many miles are on the motor (268K). You shouldn't have to do that. With no leaks and keeping it for the long run I would go synthetic, 10W30. Mobil 1 can be bought at about any store, the other brands you may have to order. I have used Amsoil and Royal Purple and they are both good as well. I will be using Amsoil but Mobil 1 is a fine oil too, just my preference.
Here is a thread on another board a friend of mine wrote up. He has been around the oil industry and wheels a pretty sick Xterra hard . There is tons of other info out there but this will get you started:
Synthetic FAQs
Here is a thread on another board a friend of mine wrote up. He has been around the oil industry and wheels a pretty sick Xterra hard . There is tons of other info out there but this will get you started:
Synthetic FAQs
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