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Replacing Valve Stem Seals...a DIY Job?

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Old 10-26-2006, 07:22 PM
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Replacing Valve Stem Seals...a DIY Job?

In doing a lot of research here at other places, it really sounds like my valve stem seals have given up the ghost. To those who have replaced theirs (or now how), how hard is this? How much time would it take? Is there a write up somewhere here that I wasn't able to find?

The driver's side looks FAR easier than the other...a million hoses, the intake manifold, all kinds of junk in the way.

I have the 3VZE, btw.

Thanks in advance!
Old 10-26-2006, 07:53 PM
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Valve stems are usually in the wheel, where the tire is. Are you talking about the valve cover gasket?
Old 10-26-2006, 08:06 PM
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LOL

No, I'm talking about the intake and exhaust seals in the heads. They look something like this...



Sorry for the mixup, I should have been more clear.

Old 10-26-2006, 08:16 PM
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I am really a transmission guy but I did this to a Chevy 350 still in the vehicle once. I had to have a tool that went in place of the spark plug and had a hose that connected to the air line I took the valve covers off and installed the tool in the appropriate spark plug hole for each cylinder as I replaced the seals one cylinder at a time. I am sure the process is at least similar and at least as messy.
Old 10-26-2006, 08:26 PM
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It will take you a day. You need a tool to compress the valve springs and some rope to feed into the cylinder. basicly you feed a bunch of rope into the cyl turn engine so cyl is all the way to TDC and change the seal. Deffinately a DIY if you know a little about what your doing of get a friend who knows. A little magnet to help with the spring retainers is good to.
Old 10-26-2006, 08:52 PM
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Cool, thanks Sup. I'm pretty handy around this kind of stuff. I'm not clear on what the purpose of the rope is, though. What's the point of that? I'm finding these damn things for less than two dollars...sucks that such a cheap part can be such a pain. The stealer wants ~1300 dollars for this job!

Sup, or anyone for that matter, do you know of a write up where the steps are detailed...preferably with pictures?

Thanks again, you've been a great help...
Old 10-26-2006, 10:15 PM
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The rope is like the air in the cylinder. It keeps the valves seated so they don't fall down in there. That could possibly cause you to have to disassemble the motor to get them out.
Old 10-27-2006, 05:42 AM
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I did it with the heads off the truck. I was using my press and a homemade tool to compress the springs, so I wouldn't be able to do it with the heads still installed in the truck without buying a spring compressor designed to do that with. I found it tricky to get the spring retainers re-installed properly even with the heads off the truck. I am dreading ever having to try it with the heads in place, but it is do-able.
Old 10-27-2006, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by GSGALLANT
I did it with the heads off the truck. I was using my press and a homemade tool to compress the springs, so I wouldn't be able to do it with the heads still installed in the truck without buying a spring compressor designed to do that with. I found it tricky to get the spring retainers re-installed properly even with the heads off the truck. I am dreading ever having to try it with the heads in place, but it is do-able.
Thats why a mechanics magnet is good.
Old 10-27-2006, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by suprathepeg
Thats why a mechanics magnet is good.
Yeah... I have one, but the hard part was getting the second retainer in place without disturbing the first retainer already in position.
Old 10-27-2006, 07:11 AM
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Makes me glad I just put new heads on, lol.
Old 10-27-2006, 10:05 AM
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Get one of these from snap on. WELL worth 50 bucks and makes putting the keepers back on SOOO easy........

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Old 10-27-2006, 02:24 PM
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I think I'm gonna try this on the drivers side on Sunday. I got back in touch with the stealer to get clarification on something else. You may remember in another thread I was told the HG's are fine, compression is fine...but that the motor was just 'tired' and 'washed out.' I kept pressing him tell me WTF the problem really is! He said he was reluctant to diagnose the cause of the white smoke that comes out when I come off idle. Given this looks to be 'relatively' easy on the drivers side and since the parts cost next to nothing...what the heck?

If my thinking is correct, the smoking should decrease by half. Anyone think this plan is a good one? Please let me know your thoughts.
Old 10-27-2006, 06:22 PM
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I just did mine when the HG blew, I had the heads off the truck which I'm sure is alot smoother than trying to do them in place. Compressed air works like the rope trick and will hold the valves in place while you place the keepers.
Old 10-28-2006, 06:27 PM
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white smoke = coolant...valve stem seals show up usually after the car has been sitting for a while. While sitting oil leaks past the seals and into the cylinder and upon fireup, boof, blue smoke
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