Power Steering Hose - Any "New" Replacement Tips!
#1
Power Steering Hose - Any "New" Replacement Tips!
I've searched the forum -- thank you all for your posts on power steering issues -- so I think I have a pretty good handle on replacing the PS high/low pressure hoses on my '89 3VZE 4wd (high pressure is leaking).
OEM from the dealer would've been my first choice, but after the sticker shock I ordered a Gates hose from Amazon. I guess we'll see how it works out.
So...anyone care to give me some last minute tips I may not have already seen on this forum? From what I've read, replacement seems pretty straightforward. Seems like the most critical part is bleeding the system afterward. Any more wisdom out there? Thanks!
OEM from the dealer would've been my first choice, but after the sticker shock I ordered a Gates hose from Amazon. I guess we'll see how it works out.
So...anyone care to give me some last minute tips I may not have already seen on this forum? From what I've read, replacement seems pretty straightforward. Seems like the most critical part is bleeding the system afterward. Any more wisdom out there? Thanks!
#3
When I was struglinh big time to take highe pressure hose off the pumo I broke one of the tubes off the vacuum actuated valve. Its pricey. Do do that. I assume you know what fluid goes back in... straight forward otherwise.
#4
Use line wrenches. Probably the biggest issue people run into is turning off the hex head on the fitting by using a regular open end wrench. If it doesn't loosen relatively easily, tighten it just a little, and then back it off. Working it back and forth is usually pretty productive. I've also found it to be useful to tap on the end of the wrench with a hammer to provide an impact.
Be sure to inspect everything before putting it together to make sure it will seat well, and keep everything very clean. Pre-washing the fittings is a good idea.
Bleed it with the front end jacked up, wheels off the ground. Grab some beers and take your time on it.
Be sure to inspect everything before putting it together to make sure it will seat well, and keep everything very clean. Pre-washing the fittings is a good idea.
Bleed it with the front end jacked up, wheels off the ground. Grab some beers and take your time on it.
#5
Line wrenches...great idea and an excuse to buy more tools. The new Gates hose I bought on Amazon needed a 16mm but both the OEM high pressure and return lines are 17mm. Also replaced the return hose (not the hard line) for good measre. I had to remove the entire air box and radiator overflow tank to make room to maneuver. And I had to disconnect the return line at the steering box -- didn't want to but had no room to move the wrench around on the high pressure line. It also helped to remove the alternator belt. Those lines were a bear but after much encouragement they broke free.
I removed the battery to have more room to work on the PS pump side. Had to remove the reservoir in order to get a wrench on the coupling while loosening the high pressure line at the pump. That also took some coaxing and a lot of leverage. The FSM is a good resource for this project, by the way.
So, it took awhile to pull the old leaky hose, but not so much to put the new one in. I was careful not to cross thread the line at the steering box. And thanks for the tip re: cleaning the threads. Torqued everything to FSM specs, then capped the return port at the reservoir per the FSM and refilled w/ ATF. I followed the procedure in the FSM, which calls for leaving the return line disconnected in a drain pan and starting the engine to push the air out of the system. After connecting the return line, I topped off the reservoir and started the engine w/ the cap resting on top so air could escape. Ran it for a few seconds at a time until the fluid level stabilized, then ran it until the air bubbles disappeared.
I've never bled a steering system before, so I don't know if this is a great method, but I'll keep an eye on it and check for air bubbles. The FSM shows a bleeding method using the bleeder screw at the steering box...anyone try this?
So it's all back together and leak free. I will say that the OEM high pressure hose looks superior to the Gates. Looks like a high temp resistant fabric is wrapped over the hose. I'm hoping the Gates holds up as long as the OEM did.
All in all, not too difficult a job. Took me longer than it would probably take most of you here on Yotatech, but I like to think I'm careful, not slow! Thanks for your help folks!
I removed the battery to have more room to work on the PS pump side. Had to remove the reservoir in order to get a wrench on the coupling while loosening the high pressure line at the pump. That also took some coaxing and a lot of leverage. The FSM is a good resource for this project, by the way.
So, it took awhile to pull the old leaky hose, but not so much to put the new one in. I was careful not to cross thread the line at the steering box. And thanks for the tip re: cleaning the threads. Torqued everything to FSM specs, then capped the return port at the reservoir per the FSM and refilled w/ ATF. I followed the procedure in the FSM, which calls for leaving the return line disconnected in a drain pan and starting the engine to push the air out of the system. After connecting the return line, I topped off the reservoir and started the engine w/ the cap resting on top so air could escape. Ran it for a few seconds at a time until the fluid level stabilized, then ran it until the air bubbles disappeared.
I've never bled a steering system before, so I don't know if this is a great method, but I'll keep an eye on it and check for air bubbles. The FSM shows a bleeding method using the bleeder screw at the steering box...anyone try this?
So it's all back together and leak free. I will say that the OEM high pressure hose looks superior to the Gates. Looks like a high temp resistant fabric is wrapped over the hose. I'm hoping the Gates holds up as long as the OEM did.
All in all, not too difficult a job. Took me longer than it would probably take most of you here on Yotatech, but I like to think I'm careful, not slow! Thanks for your help folks!
Last edited by Herkdriver; 10-16-2013 at 06:25 PM.
#6
If you're not getting air bubbles in the reservoir, and don't hear any groaning, you're likely already in good shape.
When I do it, I just fill it as I want, jack up the front end, then turn the wheels to the right, wait 20 or 30 seconds, turn it to the left, wait 20 or 30 seconds, and repeat 20 times or so. Keeps me away from the wife, and plenty of time to drink some suds. Sure, there's better ways to do it. But I like beer.
When I do it, I just fill it as I want, jack up the front end, then turn the wheels to the right, wait 20 or 30 seconds, turn it to the left, wait 20 or 30 seconds, and repeat 20 times or so. Keeps me away from the wife, and plenty of time to drink some suds. Sure, there's better ways to do it. But I like beer.
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