OEM front wheel bearings or after market?
#1
OEM front wheel bearings or after market?
I would imagine the OEM replacement set up for a bearing job is the best way to go. I got a parts quote from Toyota for $348 for both front wheels. I think this is high but I dont want to have to do this again anytime soon. I just want to see what you guys think about the other options.
OEM breakdown
inner bearing $75 each
outer bearing $40 each
seals $25 each
locking star washer $5 each
24mm nut $9 each
some other washer or nut $2.50 each
OEM breakdown
inner bearing $75 each
outer bearing $40 each
seals $25 each
locking star washer $5 each
24mm nut $9 each
some other washer or nut $2.50 each
#2
Registered User
Marlin Crawler kit. Approx. 150 for both sides. Uses OEM, Koyo bearings. Does not include the 54mm nuts, but unless the originals have been chiseled, they should be fine to reuse.
Cheers
Andy
Cheers
Andy
#5
Registered User
You can save money on the bearings by looking at the number on the bearing, then find out who sells them.
My truck has Timken bearings. When I search for the Timken part numbers I find them for sale for $15.23 for the outer (includes both bearing and cup), and $19.33 for the inner.
Online suppliers like Rock Auto, Amazon, and local suppliers like Kaman and Motion Industries all carry bearings.
My truck has Timken bearings. When I search for the Timken part numbers I find them for sale for $15.23 for the outer (includes both bearing and cup), and $19.33 for the inner.
Online suppliers like Rock Auto, Amazon, and local suppliers like Kaman and Motion Industries all carry bearings.
Last edited by rustypigeon; 05-07-2016 at 05:27 AM.
#7
Registered User
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#8
It doesn't requires removing the bearings. But it does require removing the hub.
On the topic. There are no particular brands I would stay away from. I would however stay away from unbranded generic bearings. Such as el cheapo parts store house brands from say NAPA or AZ.
On the topic. There are no particular brands I would stay away from. I would however stay away from unbranded generic bearings. Such as el cheapo parts store house brands from say NAPA or AZ.
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-07-2016 at 08:10 AM.
#9
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It doesn't requires removing the bearings. But it does require removing the hub.
On the topic. There are no particular brands I would stay away from. I would however stay away from unbranded generic bearings. Such as el cheapo parts store house brands from say NAPA or AZ.
On the topic. There are no particular brands I would stay away from. I would however stay away from unbranded generic bearings. Such as el cheapo parts store house brands from say NAPA or AZ.
#10
Registered User
How are you going to remove the hub without removing at least the outer bearing? Technically the inner bearing could stay inside the hub, but I would question the methods of anybody who would not remove and repack both bearings.
#12
It doesn't requires removing the bearings. But it does require removing the hub.
On the topic. There are no particular brands I would stay away from. I would however stay away from unbranded generic bearings. Such as el cheapo parts store house brands from say NAPA or AZ.
On the topic. There are no particular brands I would stay away from. I would however stay away from unbranded generic bearings. Such as el cheapo parts store house brands from say NAPA or AZ.
Thank you this is the kind of info im looking for. Ill pull the hubs apart and see whats in there.
#14
You just keep making technically inaccurate statements. Outer bearing needs removed? No. Removed from what? It resides in the hub. Do you have to remove the hub with the outer bearing(inner race and outer race/bearing cage) an the inner bearing(inner race and outer race/bearing cage)? Yes. 2 parts for each bearing. 4 bearing parts need removed FROM THE SPINDLE at the same time as the hub.
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-07-2016 at 04:03 PM.
#15
Registered User
You just keep making technically inaccurate statements. Outer bearing needs removed? No. Removed from what? It resides in the hub. Do you have to remove the hub with the outer bearing(inner race and outer race/bearing cage) an the inner bearing(inner race and outer race/bearing cage)? Yes. 2 parts for each bearing. 4 bearing parts need removed FROM THE SPINDLE at the same time as the hub.
When you remove the hub, what is holding the outer bearing to the hub? Nothing! Well, maybe the surface tension of the grease. So while you are correct in that it does not need to be removed, it may just fall on the floor when you pull the hub off. And, as we know, the inner grease seal will keep the inner bearing from falling out.
Anyone who removes a hub and does not remove and repack both bearings is a true shade tree hack.
So here is the technically correct answer...
Do the bearings NEED to be removed to remove the hub? No. (although you may have one fall on the floor if you don't hold it in with your hand)
SHOULD the bearings be removed to remove and install the hub properly? Yes, Unless you like old dirty grease on the bearings.
In similar logic, I have heard of people removing and replacing the rocker arm assembly of a 22RE without removing the cylinder head because technically the head didn't NEED to come off. Yeah, the head didn't NEED to come off, but you just compromised the integrity of your head gasket so it SHOULD have come off.
I often make the mistake of assuming people want to know the proper way a job is done when they ask a question. It did not dawn on me that there are actually people out there who would take the time to remove and install a hub, yet leave the old grease in the bearings. My apologies for the confusion.
Last edited by rustypigeon; 05-07-2016 at 06:05 PM.
#16
Registered User
The 85 that I drive everyday has the original front bearings that came in it 31 yrs ago. And Im by no means a conservative driver. Thats Toyota quality. I would never use another brand unless I just could not afford it.
#19
you might want to price some quality rebuilt calipers.
#20
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