I think my coil is bad
08-06-2013, 05:57 PM
#1
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I think my coil is bad
90 Runner 4X4 3vze 5 speed SR5
Tested coil with ohmmeter, here's the results.
primary: 0.3 ohms (with in spec)
Secondary: no reading
Had to use the coil to distributor wire for the test, the probes on my multimeter would not reach the conductor in the tower terminal.
Link to my other thread regarding the problem I was having.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...roblem-271791/
Tested coil with ohmmeter, here's the results.
primary: 0.3 ohms (with in spec)
Secondary: no reading
Had to use the coil to distributor wire for the test, the probes on my multimeter would not reach the conductor in the tower terminal.
Link to my other thread regarding the problem I was having.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...roblem-271791/
08-06-2013, 06:05 PM
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Found a used one on ebay. $30 bucks. On a tight budget ATM.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-91-TOYOTA...954#vi-content
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-91-TOYOTA...954#vi-content
08-06-2013, 10:10 PM
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im replacing my coil and igniter at same time tomorrow or today I would say @ 9am... I had a code 14.... hope it fixes my issue... and your wire is fully inserted mines the same way and worked forever
according to my book you should get 0.4-0.5 ohms on primary side of coil, note this is for cold coils the secondary circuit resistance should be 10.2-13.8k ohms. mine starts failing after it heats up a while
according to my book you should get 0.4-0.5 ohms on primary side of coil, note this is for cold coils the secondary circuit resistance should be 10.2-13.8k ohms. mine starts failing after it heats up a while
Last edited by Scrussanation; 08-06-2013 at 10:17 PM.
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08-07-2013, 06:56 AM
#8
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You should be getting a reading on the secondary resistance. The fact you got nothing means one of two things:
1. Your coil wire is bad out of the box, somewhere along the line the wire is severed.
2. Your coil wire isn't inserted all the way! The lip of the rubber should be over the tower and should be straight up and down, which it isn't. If you're set on keeping it, cut off the excess rubber so that it fits right. If you don't believe me, take a pencil and measure how deep the tower is. Then compare from the edge of the rubber to the metal tip. Does it reach the bottom to make a firm connection?
1. Your coil wire is bad out of the box, somewhere along the line the wire is severed.
2. Your coil wire isn't inserted all the way! The lip of the rubber should be over the tower and should be straight up and down, which it isn't. If you're set on keeping it, cut off the excess rubber so that it fits right. If you don't believe me, take a pencil and measure how deep the tower is. Then compare from the edge of the rubber to the metal tip. Does it reach the bottom to make a firm connection?
08-07-2013, 08:08 AM
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First off, thank you gentlemen for your help.
I'm a good assembler, mechanically, but my electrical skills aren't that great.
Some more pics, more experiments.
Pretty clean in there.
Probe extension wire.
Wire jammed in tight with coil plug. Meter at lowest setting.
Meter set at 20k
Without plug jammed in.
Using 1/4 inch extension bar for probe extension, 2 inches in length
.
I'm a good assembler, mechanically, but my electrical skills aren't that great.
Some more pics, more experiments.
Pretty clean in there.
Probe extension wire.
Wire jammed in tight with coil plug. Meter at lowest setting.
Meter set at 20k
Without plug jammed in.
Using 1/4 inch extension bar for probe extension, 2 inches in length
.
08-07-2013, 09:04 AM
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I re-installed the coil/ignitor with the old coil/dist wire, it fired up, real rough though.
Idle is too low, lots of smoke.
I'll turn up the idle via the adjusting nuts on the cable, smoke may be from all the unburned gas in the exhaust system from the cranking I've been doing without it starting.
Breakfast is ready, so I'll play with it some more after I eat.
Idle is too low, lots of smoke.
I'll turn up the idle via the adjusting nuts on the cable, smoke may be from all the unburned gas in the exhaust system from the cranking I've been doing without it starting.
Breakfast is ready, so I'll play with it some more after I eat.
08-07-2013, 09:14 AM
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coil readings look ok to me...wire reading seems too high on the new one, although whether it would cause a problem or not is debatable.
Usually the only problems toyota coils ever have is after they get warm...sometimes though they are DEAD and you'd have no continuity
Usually the only problems toyota coils ever have is after they get warm...sometimes though they are DEAD and you'd have no continuity
08-07-2013, 09:39 AM
#15
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That's way too high of resistance for the new coil wire, that was most likely your problem. Keep the old one!
Might be worth checking your spark plug cables as well.
Might be worth checking your spark plug cables as well.
Last edited by Gamefreakgc; 08-07-2013 at 09:41 AM.
08-07-2013, 10:46 AM
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Put the old wires back on, minus #5 because the plug socket separated from the old wire when I took them apart.
She fired up !!
Oil pressure good, water temp good, battery charging, nothing leaking.
Let it idle for 15 minutes, burn off the Liquid Wrench and clear the exhaust of unburned fuel.
Lots of smoke out of the tail pipe for the first 10 min, then it went away.
She's got a miss, but it is untimed, valves seem loud, muffler sounds shot.
The loud valves worry me. Had a valve grind and adjustment done by a machine shop.
She fired up !!
Oil pressure good, water temp good, battery charging, nothing leaking.
Let it idle for 15 minutes, burn off the Liquid Wrench and clear the exhaust of unburned fuel.
Lots of smoke out of the tail pipe for the first 10 min, then it went away.
She's got a miss, but it is untimed, valves seem loud, muffler sounds shot.
The loud valves worry me. Had a valve grind and adjustment done by a machine shop.
08-07-2013, 11:21 AM
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First return I've done from Rockauto, awesome.
I told them I had a bad coil wire in the plug wire pack I bought from them, they said keep the wires we'll refund your bank account.
Ordered a set of NGK plug wires.
Each NGK ignition wire is fitted with a positive locking, corrosion resistant Stainless Steel terminal end for tight fit and maximum resistance to vibration and separation. NGK Wire Sets are numbered for easy cylinder identification and coil wires are color coded for correct and easy installation. Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): TX12
$50 + shipping.
I told them I had a bad coil wire in the plug wire pack I bought from them, they said keep the wires we'll refund your bank account.
Ordered a set of NGK plug wires.
Each NGK ignition wire is fitted with a positive locking, corrosion resistant Stainless Steel terminal end for tight fit and maximum resistance to vibration and separation. NGK Wire Sets are numbered for easy cylinder identification and coil wires are color coded for correct and easy installation. Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): TX12
$50 + shipping.
08-07-2013, 11:33 AM
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awesome deal on the new wires
I'd be worried about the valves also...that can cause misfire.
Time it first, if still worried about valves tear into it and check valve clearance. Mistakes can happen adjusting valves
I'd be worried about the valves also...that can cause misfire.
Time it first, if still worried about valves tear into it and check valve clearance. Mistakes can happen adjusting valves
08-07-2013, 12:03 PM
#19
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The previous owner had it adjusted at one point and put WAY too big of a shim in. Probably was looking for a shortcut and instead of buying the correct shim, put another one in that was too big. The result? 10 psi compression and a terrible wobble to the engine (would shake 1-2 inches both ways at idle!).
The downside is that it's not worth tearing the engine apart to just to check... so you kinda just have to take their word for it. I've been burned by sloppy jobs by mechanics too many times so I always do my own work unless I am limited by tools. By the way... if you're looking for a good shop, I go to Quality Auto on Douglas. One of the mechanics there, Ying, used to be a Toyota mechanic and owns a Pickup with the 22RE. He's been very helpful for issues and problems that I haven't been able to do myself. They make mistakes sometimes (like all shops) but when they do they always correct them at no cost. Reasonably priced too. One time the manager gave me a discount of $50 off a $500 job (axle seal leak) just because they were running a coupon and I didn't have it. They even gave me a ride to pick it up!
08-10-2013, 11:46 AM
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Yeah, adjusting valves is a very, very tedious process. When I did it it took me a whole holiday weekend and some... probably about 20 - 25 hours all said and done. Of course, that's with all the other parts I replaced/cleaned/repaired while I had the engine torn apart.
The previous owner had it adjusted at one point and put WAY too big of a shim in. Probably was looking for a shortcut and instead of buying the correct shim, put another one in that was too big. The result? 10 psi compression and a terrible wobble to the engine (would shake 1-2 inches both ways at idle!).
The downside is that it's not worth tearing the engine apart to just to check... so you kinda just have to take their word for it. I've been burned by sloppy jobs by mechanics too many times so I always do my own work unless I am limited by tools. By the way... if you're looking for a good shop, I go to Quality Auto on Douglas. One of the mechanics there, Ying, used to be a Toyota mechanic and owns a Pickup with the 22RE. He's been very helpful for issues and problems that I haven't been able to do myself. They make mistakes sometimes (like all shops) but when they do they always correct them at no cost. Reasonably priced too. One time the manager gave me a discount of $50 off a $500 job (axle seal leak) just because they were running a coupon and I didn't have it. They even gave me a ride to pick it up!
The previous owner had it adjusted at one point and put WAY too big of a shim in. Probably was looking for a shortcut and instead of buying the correct shim, put another one in that was too big. The result? 10 psi compression and a terrible wobble to the engine (would shake 1-2 inches both ways at idle!).
The downside is that it's not worth tearing the engine apart to just to check... so you kinda just have to take their word for it. I've been burned by sloppy jobs by mechanics too many times so I always do my own work unless I am limited by tools. By the way... if you're looking for a good shop, I go to Quality Auto on Douglas. One of the mechanics there, Ying, used to be a Toyota mechanic and owns a Pickup with the 22RE. He's been very helpful for issues and problems that I haven't been able to do myself. They make mistakes sometimes (like all shops) but when they do they always correct them at no cost. Reasonably priced too. One time the manager gave me a discount of $50 off a $500 job (axle seal leak) just because they were running a coupon and I didn't have it. They even gave me a ride to pick it up!
If it's worth doing, do it RIGHT.
