Headlight problem (Fixed)
Low beams don't work, but high beam indicator is on.

Hey guys,

My headlights stopped working recently on my 1990 pickup and having since fixed the problem, I thought I'd leave a post on here to maybe help someone else. This problem stumped me for a while, and I was worried I'd have to go digging around my truck for a loose ground wire! Ugh, I hate electrical problems like that :-( I had a search on here, but I actually got the tip on where to look from these two pages:

http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/2sq...indicator.html

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/1988_Toyota_pickup_with_no_low_beams_and_only_High _beams_when_the_switch_is_pulled_forward_Also_the_ high_beam_indicator_is_always_on_when_turning_the_ headlights_on_yet_no_lights_are_actualy_on_How_can



Problem:
Low beam headlights stopped working, but strangely the high beam indicator is lit on the dash.
High beam headlights also don't work, but if you pull the stalk forward (to flash) they will come on.


What this means:
Power is going to the headlights, through the low beam filament, back to the combo stalk, and instead of going through the combo switch to ground, it's being grounded via the high beam indicator.


Firstly check...
Before you pull apart your steering column, it's much quicker to first check the usual things:

• The two headlight fuses
• Check the headlight relay clicks in when you turn on the low beams
• Un-plug the headlights and run some “jumper” wires just to check that both your low beam globes/filaments haven't blown (apparently can happen with alternator problems).
• Turn on the “parker” lights and check you get a +12v on one terminal of the headlight plug
• Turn on the low beams, then high beams, and check you're getting a 0v ground on the other 2 pins of the headlight plug.

Note, it's a bit mis-leading that the low beam wire to the headlight plug will always show 0v ground. This is because it's permanently connected to ground via the high beam indicator light.


Finding the real problem:
Remove the trim from around your steering column and under the dash. You need access to the wires from the combo switch and the wide plug (actually it's 2 plugs) where it connects into the main wiring loom.

Disconnect these two plugs (they're screwed onto the underside of the steering column) and have a close look for any corrosion, melting or burn marks.

(See the brown heat marks on this photo & below)


To test if there's a problem here, re-connect these plugs and turn on your low beam headlights. (They'll be off, but the high beam indicator will be on)
Get a piece of wire, strip the ends, look for the low beam headlight wire (red w/ green trace) and push in your wire to the back of the plug to it, and the other end goes to ground.
See wiring diagram here, courtesy ncttora.com
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...i/hdlitusa.pdf
(This headlight wiring diagram has more detail than the usual FSM)
This will ground one side of your low beams and (hopefully) the low beam headlights will turn on, and the high beam indicator will be off (how it's meant to work)
If this happens, we're getting close to finding the problem...


Doing that ground wire test bypassed the combo switch. Now, look for the big ground wire (white w/ black trace) on the same plug. Push your spare wire into the back of the plug to touch it, and again the other end goes to ground somewhere.
Did your low beams come on now?

If no, this means there may be a problem with your combo stalk. We grounded the headlight side of the switch first, and then the other side which doesn't work, so it's probably the switch that's broken.

If yes, this means the combo stalk is also fine, but you've got a grounding problem. In my case, where the big white ground wire went through the plug was a bad connection (but it wasn't easily visible). This wire has to take the current load of two headlights, and the contacts in the plug are the weak point. Over time, some residue built up, the contacts were 'arcing' and got hot, it melted a bit, and finally stopped making a good connection. This meant the only wire path for the headlight to ground was via the high beam indicator, and that won't allow enough current throughto turn on the headlights.
On my truck, this earth wire is actually a different guage on each side of the connector, so when enough current is flowing, I think this would make the connector a (weak) point of high resistance.


The fix:
In my case, the earth wire inside the plug wasn't making a good connection. I tried to pull it out (you have to poke in a tiny tool to force the holding tab back) but it was too melted in place.
So I just jumpered a new, thick wired across the plug in its place. If you want to still be able to unplug the combo switch, just solder on a single-pin plug (just make sure it's a heavy duty one!)

Strip the big white-black ground wire on one side of the plug (I stripped the insulation without cutting through)


...and the other side of the plug. It's interesting to note that the white-black ground wire is smaller gauge on this side.


The finished jumper wire (thick red wire - a bad choice of color yes )



I think wiring problems like this are always the worst, because something was just designed poorly and you have to trace an intermittent problem.
Another good idea is to install an aftermarket headlight loom, so your combo switch is just turning on a relay, rather than handling all the power to the headlights. Something I haven't gotten around to yet....

Hope this helps someone else...

.

 

Wow! Excellent write up! I'm having the same problem right now. Over the next few days I'll be getting intp my issue. I'll post up my fit. Thanks again

 

thanks for the good info!

 

Your diagnostics lead me to find that the red wire actually desoldered from the headlight switch. all i did was bolt that wire to the frame and my lights are perfect now. Thanks!

 

Hi there, I know this thread is kinda old but I need help. I've tried searching the answer but have little time to research much less fix the issue. A 20 mth old girl and work takes up alot. I have an '87 4Runner on an '85 frame. This things a nightmare, and wiring is only a fraction of it. I have no low beam hl's. Hi beam indicator is on with low beams, with normal high beam and flash function. I've cked all fuses, both relays click, under dash and hood. I do not have power to hl plug with just rl on. I've cked the plug under column, a bit corroded on 1 terminal, red wire with grn stripe and blk slashes, but nothing serious. I tried running a jumper wire from plug to ground which I thought were the right wires but horn sounded with one and wipers with other. Not sure how to test signal switch, and it looks like u have to remove steering wheel to replace. I do not have ohm meter yet but will sure as heck get one. Although I just bought a bunch of used tools, so whenever I can. Any thoughts, ideas, criticism. I'll take it all, I just need to figure this out and get this Runner on the road. I will b looking at wiring diagrams to c if I can figure this out. Thanks, TBT.

 

Some more info, I have power to all 3 terminals for hl plug on low beam and only 2 on highs. I have worked on taking trucks and cars apart and trying to put them together for alot of years. I am an amatuer though and wiring is a definite downfall. Its gotta b a ground issue.

 

I read and reread this thread. Grounded the red w/ green wire and low beams came on. So guessing the hl switch is bad. Now search hl switch, uuugghhh. How do u remove wheel with horn contact there ? Unscrew the nut, no puller needed ? Cannot b that easy.

 

Guess it was that easy. Pulled wheel,took apart switch, cleaned contacts, and wire plug. Took signal lever off to clean. Never, ever do that. I wasted alot of time getting that back on. Cleaned all grounds that i know of. Amazing i have working headlights. Still don't fully understand electrical system but maybe someday. Now where does this wire go to at fuse box, lol ?

 

This made my day and fixed my problem for FREE !! I am Pumped and my day off won't be spent at Pep Boys (who I really trust) Thank You Very much !!

 

Recently had this problem with my truck, I got better pictures than shown here ill upload..

The Problem:


My fix: (Cut the white with black stripe wire and grounded directly, skipping the clip)


New ground location (Happened to be a ground already there from a alarm system install at some point in time that is no longer installed, I just used that spot):

 

This thread got me on track for resolving the same issue with a 1985 Celica GTS. Pin outs on steering column were the same. Connector was good and turned out one of the connections in the actual head light switch assembly behind the steering wheel had disconnected (depending on tilt setting of steering wheel the low beams would work or not). had to take the wheel off and re-solder the connection (red with yellow stripe) (turned out there was another unsoldered line too!). Anyways, this post saved me from starting at the headlights and working all the way back. Posting up so that others who are searching for this information for Celica's may find it too. Nothing beats forums for great information. I'm sure I'll be digging through this one more as I uncover more issues with my summer project.

 

 

1995 previa le s/c alltrac
Found the burned connection and created a new one.

 

van had no low beams. High beam indicator was on for high and low. All lights except lows worked.

 

nice that you found and fixed the issue but be sure to do something (at the bare minimum) like electrical tape to cover that exposed metal connector or you are at risk of it shorting out

 

true true. I should’ve have mentioned that in the post. I put heat shrink over one end and overlapped the connection to create a useable plug that’s covered with what I had. Thanks for the observation.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I had the same issue and was able to resolve it with the information you guys provided. I found the low beam wire, red with green had come de-soldered from the switch assembly. it is shown in the pictures with the blue arrow. I didn't get a picture of it completely disassembled but you can at least see where I re-soldered the connection. Lights work great now.