JJ'89

Worked for me...limiting factor is probably clutch slipping?

richf

I used the starter method last week when I replace the timing chain, water and oil pump.

To tighten the bolt I got it as tight as I could by hand and put the truck in gear, pulled the e brake and tightened to spec.

Wouldn't the bolt get a little tighter over time cause it spins clockwise with the engine? Just a thought that popped into my head

DROPT

why cant a drop my pan without removing the xmember or jackin up the engine? 2wd btw. looks like i could just pull it off?

xxxtreme22r

your truck is a manual trans 2wd you should not have to remove the crossmember to drop the pan.

I did not have to remove the crossmember to drop my pan in my manual trans 4wd. However I did have to remove the mounting bolts for the front diff resting the cv's on the lower control arms and removed the steering stabilizer. Removing the diff completely and removing the crossmember, just makes it easier.

raydouble

The easy way?
The correct tool to hold the crankshaft or an impact.

wbthornton88

on the 3vze you can get like a 2 foot chain and bolt one end to the pulley in front of the crank shaft using the pulley bolt. Then rap the other end around the chassis double back and run a bolt and nut through the links to hold the chain to the chassis. Then break the crank pulley bolt.

BajaRunner

I've never done it, but I've been planning on doing my timing chain here for a while so I've thought about it in my head.

But to me, putting it in a higher gear, like 5th would be harder to turn the crank than it would in 1st, no? Thats what you'd want...you want the crank to stay put while you torque the bolt. Put ebrake on, chock wheels, etc.

Take your torque wrench and find a steel bar to slide over it and hope you can get enough torque to turn it to ~180 ft-lbs.

andykrow

I think the clutching slipping is more the issue than anything else. I just put it in 5th and block the wheels. Put a three foot breaker bar on it and crank till the clutch can't grab it anymore. I'm sure this is completely the wrong way to do it and I'm not getting a torque reading but I've never had a problem. ...not that I'm telling anyone not to use a torque wrench... this is just what I do.

FYI torque on the 22re crankbolt is 116 ft/lbs... not crazy high like the 3.0

raydouble

Actually Toyota upped it to like 217 ft/lbs on the 5VZ 98 and newer.....

JJ'89

Yeah, I just put it in 5th and set the parking brake and chocked the rear wheels on my 89 22re. Socket on a 24" flex handle loosening and tightening worked OK. I was thinking more like 120 lb.ft. on the install torque. Two foot lever to get 120 lbft works out to about a 60 lb pull. Wasn't a problem for me.
Maybe I'm just lucky, but it had never been disassembled before I did my timing chain at 150,000 miles...

Smeddy2

Yeah I put it in fifth and chalked the wheels too. Big ol pipe and had my friend stand on the brakes...came off nice and easy.

Teuf

My Mechanic said he used an air gun to get the pulley off to do my oil pump seal, a few years ago. This was pre YOTATECH days. If I had know then, I would have had him do a ready seal sleave or a slimmer oil seal.

andykrow

Does your seal leak? Those sleeves are easy to do - I got the one that comes in the fel-pro kit from advance auto parts and it works great.

Teuf

It still drips a bit, so I think the new seal put in just fit into same grooves/groove. What is the size for a 22re? how is it sized?

andykrow

Umm not sure about the size but the fel-pro one will work. I think you have to buy the timing cover gasket/seal kit "w/ sleeve 'n' seal". It'll have a new oil seal and the sleeve. (And other gaskets you don't need but it only costs like 14 bucks for the whole deal.) The sleeve is just really thin metal that you tap on, and it has a lip on it so it can't go too far. And it's still within the spec of the oem oil seal so you can keep the one you have.

The oil pump o-ring is another leak spot... It's pretty easy to crimp that o-ring a bit since it likes to move around while the oil pump is put on. That usually pukes out oil though if it's messed up, not just a slow leak.