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Desperate need of help - rotor and shock replacement issues

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Old 05-11-2008, 09:20 AM
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Desperate need of help - rotor and shock replacement issues

I have a 93 xcab 4wd p/up that I began to change the rotors and shocks on. With the help of this forum, the links, FSM, and Haynes manual I felt comfortable that I could complete these jobs. I started on the drivers side front - lots of PB blaster and a BFH later (4 days) I was able to get the rotor replaced, bearings repacked, and seal replaced. I started on the passenger side where I still am two weeks later.

I have 4 of the 6 cone washers out but I can not get the other 2 out. I have used the brass bar, brass punch set, steel punch, socket extension, BFH (6lb), lots of PB blaster, torch, screwdriver, etc...i have tried almost everything and I can not get them out. It seems whoever took them off before hammered a bit on top of the hub flattening the housing just a bit to put more pressure on washer. I have mushroomed the stud so threading nuts on to it is very difficult. In addition I needed to switch gears so I replaced my shocks..everything went well until the last one. The head of the bolt broke off my rear shock mount upon loosening. So i am attempting to drill out....what a pain the butt! Can anyone tell the part number of the rear shock mount and a place to purchase it from. I think it may be easier to purchase and replace.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
It seems if it is not one thing it is another! UGH!
Old 05-11-2008, 10:10 AM
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sorry about your bad luck. those cone wahsers in the hub are a biatch, no info on that to help ya though. you listed everything i woulda tried.
as for the rear shock mount, is it the top or bottom one? if its the bottom one you could just find one at the junkyard and bolt it on. but the top ones are welded in place.
Old 05-11-2008, 10:51 AM
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I don't know if you tried this for the cone washers, but this is how I do it:
The cone washer should have a little gap it, so that they are able to tighten down. Take a regular screwdriver and stick it in the gap (or if it's too tight, where the gap should be). You need to find a screwdriver with the right thickness for the gap (thick gap, thicker screwdriver, and if there is no gap, which it sounds like is your issue, maybe use a small chisel?). Align it with the gap in the washer, take a hammer and tap the screwdiver into the gap, be careful of the threads. Get the screwdriver a little ways into the gap, and twist the screwdriver, hopefully the washers will turn with it and loosen up.
Good Luck!
Old 05-11-2008, 11:21 AM
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Thanks for the feedback. I will give the screwdriver method a shot - hopefully it will work otherwise I am afraid I will be stuck with drilling the studs out.

The shock mount is the bottom one - I have tried 3 junk yards and none have a 4wd they are all 2wd yotas. I have 2 more to check on Monday when they open otherwise I am looking to buy the part new but am not finding any places on line and really dont want to go to the stealership!

Thanks!
Old 05-11-2008, 11:30 AM
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If it doesn't work, take a few pics, so we can have a better idea of what your dealing with.
Old 05-11-2008, 11:37 AM
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if your talking about the cone washers on the hub heat them up with a torch then bang with a hammer and they will pop ike pop corn works great!
Old 05-12-2008, 06:27 PM
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Hey guys....I attempted the screwdriver method and no luck. I couldnt budge it. I got the screwdriver tapped down in gap a good ways and then hit it left and right with the hammer attempting to move it. I also tried moving it with my hands....no luck. those things are in there. I attempted to heat it again and give it a shot....no luck.

I think the housing being a little bent is applying more pressure....not sure but i am attaching the pics...
Attached Thumbnails Desperate need of help - rotor and shock replacement issues-image0003.jpg   Desperate need of help - rotor and shock replacement issues-image0004.jpg  
Old 05-12-2008, 06:42 PM
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The housing is definitely pinching them in.

But I found this: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte..._end/teardown/
it mentions using a large brass punch and a heavy hammer.
Old 05-13-2008, 05:12 AM
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i would try to file the threads down until you can get a couple nuts on...then use the double nut method to remove the entire stud and replace
Old 05-13-2008, 05:12 AM
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A center punch fit into the split in the cone washer will (should) pop them right out.


Edit: pick the right punch & finesse it out

Last edited by Brenjen; 05-13-2008 at 05:13 AM.
Old 05-13-2008, 05:18 AM
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Replace all of the previously removed cone washers and nuts and tighten to spec and then try to get the two troublesome cone washers out. It'll change the tension dynamics of the hub. Worth a shot.
Old 05-13-2008, 05:19 AM
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I would do what the one guy said...STOP DOING ANYTHING ELSE.....FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET TWO NUTS ON THERE tighten them together TIGHT....and unscrew that WHOLE STUD..... better safe then sorry.... the more you beat on it....the more you risk not getting to pull the stud out
Old 05-13-2008, 05:19 AM
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ya thos puppies can be fun. the trick is not 2 messup the soft metal.
and don't use a torch. just remember DTb can sell you new used parts if you decide 2 get mad and used the 20pound BFH


Do your self a flavor and hit the dealer and get new cone washers and anti-seize when your ready 2 pt back 2geather.
Old 05-13-2008, 06:17 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback! I will definitely give every option a shot! I think the double nut option may be my only shot...that is if i can clean up the threads to get the nuts on!

Thanks again!
Old 05-18-2008, 12:05 AM
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SUCCESS!!! The Chisel and BFH with a few good whacks b/n the housing and the hub took care of it. I filed the threads, replaced to studs and finished the job!

Although i completed the rotor replacement I still have more work. I noticed the ball joint seals are shredded so I need to replace the ball joints and a piston is frozen in one of the calipers. Always something.
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