1. I have disconnected the tail lights , and front marker lights
2. put in the correct 15a fuse in correct 15a tail fuse position in the kick-panel
3. Tried my lights

no change :/

 

Checking the 15a tail fuse with the multimeter with DC Volts I’m getting .003V while light switch is turned on

 

Dave, I reiterate:
"where you are putting the positive test probe (red), where you are placing the black negative probe."
Be EXACT and detailed. The crystal ball is broken

 

You can do it that way, but for fuses, they really should be pulled out and ohmed. Otherwise, you don't know for certain if you're getting an in-circuit reading through something else, making it LOOK good, when it's actually not. If you pull it and ohm it out, you KNOW whether it's good.

If you read 0 Vdc across a fuse, it's probably good. Voltage needs some kind of resistance to "develop" it. An open fuse is a great resistance, a normal, fuse, ie: an electrical short, would read 0 vdc across it if it's good, 12 Vdc if it's bad, presuming you're not reading back through other parts of the circuit. Most automotive circuits, at least the older ones, are simple enough that's really an unlikely event, but it's possible.

Just a quick note on fuses

Pat☺

 

1. Verified power to & from tail light relay
2. Verified power to and from the 15a tail fuse
3. Verified the neutral of the dimmer
4. checked the dimmer on ohms and the dimmer was open . Therefore the Dimmer was the culprit
5. tested theory by putting a jumper wire red to white bypassing the dimmer — Dashlights tail lights and DTRL came on.

Thank you for all of your guys help , the diagrams posted above ( even though might be a little different than my truck’s ) helped a ton on understanding how it may of been wired up .

I’ve got a new dimmer coming from eBay it’ll be here this next week