CV Axle Installation Help
#1
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CV Axle Installation Help
I am currently replacing the front right axle. I now am struggling with getting the axle back on. From all the directions I have read they tell me to insert the outboard end of the axle shaft into the steering knuckle first and then to put it into the differential. Well I can't seem to get the right angle for the axle shaft to go into the steering knuckle. Is there a certain way to jack my truck up to get a better angle? I have disconnected the shock and sway bar so far. Anything else that I should disconnect?
#2
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First gen or second?
For second gen-
Jack the control arm up as high as possible. I find it helps to put a jackstand under the slider or frame of the opposite side near the rear of the truck.
For second gen-
Jack the control arm up as high as possible. I find it helps to put a jackstand under the slider or frame of the opposite side near the rear of the truck.
#4
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try lifting the lower control arm and suspension up. had to do this when I replaced the cv boots on my t100. The truck was on a lift and I had to put a poll jack under the lower control arm to raise the whole suspensionso it wasn't sitting at full droop to get my shaft in.
#7
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I was having the same problem last week. I did as everyone else has said and jacked up A-arms and it slid right in. It took me a good 2 hrs to get the old one out and maybe 15 min to put the new one in.
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#8
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Thanks for the advice. I was able to finally get the outer end of the shaft into the steering knuckle but now I'm having trouble with side that hooks on the differential. Its almost like it doesn't want to push through the bottom of the steering arm.
#9
It's a very tight squeeze to get it past the studs on the inner axle. Kinda tricky getting it lined up on the studs too. I use a large crowbar to leverage it in there.
Some people knock the studs out and put bolts in to make it easier. I would grind the splines off the studs, making them the ideal bolts to use, if I were to go that route.
Some people knock the studs out and put bolts in to make it easier. I would grind the splines off the studs, making them the ideal bolts to use, if I were to go that route.
#10
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I knocked the studs out and just replaced them with bolts. I was afraid of screwing up either the head or the threads trying to grind off the knurls.
M12-1.25x30 mm is what you need. Buy a bunch, as they are used several places on your truck - brake calipers, crossmembers, diff to mount, seems like I'm missing some...
M12-1.25x30 mm is what you need. Buy a bunch, as they are used several places on your truck - brake calipers, crossmembers, diff to mount, seems like I'm missing some...
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