Starcitygta

I have a 88 with 3.0 auto and just got code 52 figured out now I got these two codes? I think 22 is ect? Or circuit to ect. What is 51 ? Is it tps related? My 4runner will sometimes jerk or shift back and forth? I checked cat and its fine. The transmission is fairly newer as well thanks for any help

Gamefreakgc

Per the FSM:

Code 22:
- Open or short in engine
coolant temp. sensor circuit
• Engine coolant temp. sensor
• ECM

Code 51:

Displayed when A/C is ON, IDL contact OFF or
shift position in “R”, “D”, ”2”, or ”L” positions
with the DLC1 terminals E1 and TE1 connected

• A/C switch circuit
• Throttle position sensor 1 D L circuit
• Park/Neutral position switch circuit
• Accelerator pedal, cable
• ECM

Code 51 means basically you had the A/C on or you were in drive when you did the test. No issues unless that wasn't the case.

Starcitygta

The ac was off I made sure also the transmission was in park. Were do I go from here? I fear the stealership visit is coming I am pulling my hair out trying to get this rig running right

Gamefreakgc

No need for the dealership yet.

Your ECT is any easy one to replace. Behind your engine, between the engine and the firewall, on the water bypass you'll see three sensors. From left to right they are:

• Cold Start Injector Switch
• Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (to ECU)
• Engine Coolant Temp Sender (to dash)

It'll look like this:


Note the offset grooves, the CSIS and ECT look alike except for the offset grooves and slightly different size.

As for the the code 51, not sure what to tell you. Mine's manual so I don't get this code (I hardly ever run the A/C). Look at the list I provided, one of those are the causes. Most likely its a faulty relay/wire/switch of some sort.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You get 51 also if your TPS is out of adjustment, not registering as idling during test/timing/diagnostic mode.

Starcitygta

If the tps is out of adjustment will it cause a random jerk? ?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Which transmission? Not sure those are listed on that model years door placard, you might have to use the marlin crawler photo ID. Check the body placards, door and firewall, "A/TM xxx/yyy".


I'm too lazy to dig out my 88 manual.

A/T trouble shooting charts are here, My first assumption would be the cables have stretched or something else simple.

Starcitygta

Like the shift down cable?

Starcitygta

I replaced the ect with one from orielly last year maybe it's no good? Also a adjustment to the tps made the thing pur like a kitten. It still has a random jerk. I think it's from the code 22 and maybe going into limp mode. The adjustment made code 51 go away. But it still runs to rich and is hard to start cold. I am hoping code 22 fixed the rest of my problems

scope103

Maybe someone replaced the ECT when that wasn't the problem?

The code says you have an open or short. While a bad sensor could cause that, it could also be as simple as a loose connector on the ECT or a broken wire.

You still have a ways to go before you can point the finger at the sensor. Use the procedure in the manual to check the sensor, and if good follow the wiring with your multimeter.

Code 22 should result in hard starting cold. (Though less likely to cause it to run rich; that could be something else. But hard to tell when you've got active codes.)

Starcitygta

Well I haven't had time to test the ect or try and track down the short if it has one. But now it starts up and the check engine light doesn't light up for about 5mins or so and also the temp gauge has always gone to the same spot in the dash whether hot or cold? Sometimes it will stay on cold but only for a brief sec or so then goes to the exact same spot. Also my oil pressure gauge stopped working it would work then just pooped out. When the truck is cold it runs perfect but as soon as check engine lights up u can tell a difference and it won't engage overdrive? Is the bad ect or signal causing limp mode?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Firstly always check the codes and don't assume it is the same code triggering the light.

If the sensor(ECT) was completly disconnected the light would come on instantly(it triggers in 0.5seconds), so it's a loose wire, a broken wire, or a failing sensor. But only IF that is what is triggering the light.

Sorry not yelling, quoted THE BOOK..
No temp sensor means the computer is assuming a certain fixed temperature(No I don't know what temp). So yes it could be part of your shifting problem. It's needed for other things like the A/F mix..

make sure the sensor is firstly the right one, and plugged in, then check the reading at the computer and sensor.

Oil gauge test is covered starting on BE-37

Starcitygta

Thanks for the info it's appreciated greatly. By your explanation it would seem to make since that it could make the truck run rich if its basically guessing the temp. I'm dying to get this fixed as I'm hoping its the last piece of the puzzle. I was able to drive it last night to my sisters a 30 highway drive and od worked great check engine is coming on as soon as its starters now. The only thing was the exhaust was still rich, can't wait till I can take this thing on trips and camping and such

scope103

The sensor for the gauge is not the same one as the ECT (though they do measure the same thing, and they are next to each other on the bypass manifold). These may not be related, but one possibility is that the connections to the two sensors is reversed (I'm guessing here).