Code 11
#1
Code 11
Hey everyone, your humble vendor needs some help with his yota. I have an '86 22RE yota that's throwing a code 11.
The code is:
Quote:
SWITCH SIGNALS
IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU
WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED
--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--A/C AMPLIFIER
--TPS/CIRCUIT
--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--ECU
Since I've built in it a custom dash and just put the check engine light in I don't know for how long the CEL has actually been on.
It used to be an automatic transmission, but I converted it to manual but am still using the same ECU. I've messed with the neutral start switch wire, giving it a positive, negative, and nothing and the light still comes on.
It has no A/C, never did. Runs fine. This wiring harness is also very modified, stripped a bunch of crap off of it, it's buggified you might say. Also, the light doesn't come on until I rev it above a certain RPM, about 3K I'd say, don't have a tach. Then it stays on. If I never rev it, doesn't come on.
I need to get it smogged and registered, gonna be my DD.
Anyone have any ideas??
The code is:
Quote:
SWITCH SIGNALS
IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU
WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED
--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--A/C AMPLIFIER
--TPS/CIRCUIT
--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--ECU
Since I've built in it a custom dash and just put the check engine light in I don't know for how long the CEL has actually been on.
It used to be an automatic transmission, but I converted it to manual but am still using the same ECU. I've messed with the neutral start switch wire, giving it a positive, negative, and nothing and the light still comes on.
It has no A/C, never did. Runs fine. This wiring harness is also very modified, stripped a bunch of crap off of it, it's buggified you might say. Also, the light doesn't come on until I rev it above a certain RPM, about 3K I'd say, don't have a tach. Then it stays on. If I never rev it, doesn't come on.
I need to get it smogged and registered, gonna be my DD.
Anyone have any ideas??
#2
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#3
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
Check out those circuits/components in order (and if applicable). Take the position that the part is bad and prove to yourself that it is OK, don't just look at it and say it looks good:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
#4
Alright well I tested the TPS and it was out of spec so I reset it. Then I tested again and VTA and E2 are at 900 ohms, should be at a max of 800 if I recall correctly, everything else was fine. Guess I need a new TPS, hopefully that fixes the problem!
Last edited by zach@sparkplugs.com; 02-14-2010 at 06:19 PM.
#5
Still having problems with this. I got a brand new TPS from autozone, set it to spec, and I'm still getting the same code 11. I am stumped!
This TPS is perfectly set! I've also tested my wiring back to the computer and everything read within 1 ohm. Also I cannot set my timing because of this code 11.
Any ideas?
EDIT: Should VCC be reading 5 volts with ignition on?
This TPS is perfectly set! I've also tested my wiring back to the computer and everything read within 1 ohm. Also I cannot set my timing because of this code 11.
Any ideas?
EDIT: Should VCC be reading 5 volts with ignition on?
Last edited by zach@sparkplugs.com; 02-14-2010 at 06:51 PM.
#7
There's something funny going on with that. I have actually pulled the connectors, had 'em off for an hour, and when I plug them back in and turn on the ignition I get the code 11 when I jump T1 and TE1, without ever having turned on the truck. I'm starting to think I may have a bad computer
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