A/C Condenser Fan Install
#21
Registered User
Okay, that make's sense. You're tapping into the compressor positive feed with an inline fuse connection. Is that correct?
Thanks for the pictures -- and yes, not interested in the radiator fan, but thought you might be tying in there for the positive. Above makes much more sense...
Being in TX, that extra bit of cooling at low speeds will be clutch. Since converting from R12, the AC at low speeds has been less than ideal... Thank you!
Thanks for the pictures -- and yes, not interested in the radiator fan, but thought you might be tying in there for the positive. Above makes much more sense...
Being in TX, that extra bit of cooling at low speeds will be clutch. Since converting from R12, the AC at low speeds has been less than ideal... Thank you!
Last edited by RSR; 08-28-2013 at 10:54 PM.
#22
Registered User
Okay, that make's sense. You're tapping into the compressor positive feed with an inline fuse connection. Is that correct?
Thanks for the pictures -- and yes, not interested in the radiator fan, but thought you might be tying in there for the positive. Above makes much more sense...
Being in TX, that extra bit of cooling at low speeds will be clutch. Since converting from R12, the AC at low speeds has been less than ideal... Thank you!
Thanks for the pictures -- and yes, not interested in the radiator fan, but thought you might be tying in there for the positive. Above makes much more sense...
Being in TX, that extra bit of cooling at low speeds will be clutch. Since converting from R12, the AC at low speeds has been less than ideal... Thank you!
I have a thread of my build where I show the use of a 1992 mercury sable or ford taurus radiator cooling fan and the shroud hugs the radiator beautifully and you can see it on toyotaminis.com
Are you gonna buy the same fan from ebay.
I believe its a worthwhile investment.
The seller Olympia Auto has good customer service and they offer a one year warranty.
Let me know if you decide to get one because I would like to see your install.
Shalom,
Zachariah
Last edited by The Jewish Guy; 08-29-2013 at 06:15 AM.
#23
Registered User
Zachariah - nice find on the pusher fan for the AC. I have had a mercury Villager fan sitting in the garage for a while, bought the DCC controller to control it, but have not yet installed it. Did you go to the electric radiator fan first or add the pusher fan first? I live in Broward, so you know I need the extra air on my condenser. If you went with the pusher first, did it make a big difference by itself? Did you go to the sable/taurus fan more to help with air flow over the condenser or was your engine overheating? Just wondering your thought process. My engine temps are fine, I just really want to move more air at traffic lights and low speeds across that AC condenser...I'm sweating.
#24
Registered User
Okay, I've been doing some more investigating on this... I'm leaning towards the factory fan as I have the Hilux and the factory taps to support the stock cooling fan in the stock location (I think anyways)...
The 4 Runners use the power to the magnetic clutch to power the fan as well. So that tap is in line w/ factory setup, 4 runner a/c wiring diagram 3rd page: http://surf-club-kz.org/techinfo/n13...c/descript.pdf
For comparison, here's our truck's A/C wiring diagram: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2aircondi.pdf
However, one thing that didn't happen on your build is installing the resistor (factory is Standard resistance of 0.6 ± 0.06 at 20°C,68°F): http://surf-club-kz.org/techinfo/n13...e/ac/conde.pdf
So if running the factory fan, we should probably either run a resistor inline on the power supply or get the factory resistor (PN: 8863535010, 88635-35010, ~$30).
Factory also sells lower foam inserts between condensor and radiator:
http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...rimLevel=18204
PNs:
2 of: 8857889103 ~$3 each (not sure where they go, thinking vertical between radiator and condensor and above the main part below, or whether they're essential)
1 of: 8857889125 ~50 cents (this is the long lower one)
Obviously, none of these were made for trucks, but *should* work.
The 4 Runners use the power to the magnetic clutch to power the fan as well. So that tap is in line w/ factory setup, 4 runner a/c wiring diagram 3rd page: http://surf-club-kz.org/techinfo/n13...c/descript.pdf
For comparison, here's our truck's A/C wiring diagram: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2aircondi.pdf
However, one thing that didn't happen on your build is installing the resistor (factory is Standard resistance of 0.6 ± 0.06 at 20°C,68°F): http://surf-club-kz.org/techinfo/n13...e/ac/conde.pdf
So if running the factory fan, we should probably either run a resistor inline on the power supply or get the factory resistor (PN: 8863535010, 88635-35010, ~$30).
Factory also sells lower foam inserts between condensor and radiator:
http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...rimLevel=18204
PNs:
2 of: 8857889103 ~$3 each (not sure where they go, thinking vertical between radiator and condensor and above the main part below, or whether they're essential)
1 of: 8857889125 ~50 cents (this is the long lower one)
Obviously, none of these were made for trucks, but *should* work.
Last edited by RSR; 09-07-2013 at 02:24 PM.
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