Alternator Wire replacement problems.
07-08-2013, 01:34 PM
#21
Shoot, your right... I got that from this link.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...00c152800610de
All the 22r, 22re and 4-cyl labeled ones have 6 spark plugs, and the v6 one is different. So what is the correct diagram?
2 Splices? What? I have 4 wires that come off the alt, one is a heavier gauge wire that bolts to the top, the other three come out of the plug. That heavy gauge wire goes directly to the 80 amp fuse and then to the battery, the other three go to a 4-pin plug(with the fourth pin being that ground you mention) One of those 3 is the indicator light, one is the ignition line and the last goes to the 80 amp fuse as far as i can tell. Are you telling me the should be a fifth wire joining this mess somewhere?
I did fix the ground, cut them, stripped them and crimped in a butt connector then heat shrunk it and wrapped in tape.
Wait i'm reading your splice thing again, your saying a wire will leave that harness and enter the firewall? I will go check for this.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...00c152800610de
All the 22r, 22re and 4-cyl labeled ones have 6 spark plugs, and the v6 one is different. So what is the correct diagram?
2 Splices? What? I have 4 wires that come off the alt, one is a heavier gauge wire that bolts to the top, the other three come out of the plug. That heavy gauge wire goes directly to the 80 amp fuse and then to the battery, the other three go to a 4-pin plug(with the fourth pin being that ground you mention) One of those 3 is the indicator light, one is the ignition line and the last goes to the 80 amp fuse as far as i can tell. Are you telling me the should be a fifth wire joining this mess somewhere?
I did fix the ground, cut them, stripped them and crimped in a butt connector then heat shrunk it and wrapped in tape.
Wait i'm reading your splice thing again, your saying a wire will leave that harness and enter the firewall? I will go check for this.
yellow is the stock alt to battery wire.
the white ones are the 2 T's that splice off of the factory alt wire and run to the firewall.
im just referring to the main alt wire, not the plug. you said you did the big 3 upgrade and when people do it, sometimes they leave the stock wiring and add to it and some people do like i did and remove the stock wires and that was what led me to my problems i was having.
07-08-2013, 02:19 PM
#22
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here is what i mean. (mad mspaint skills)
yellow is the stock alt to battery wire.
the white ones are the 2 T's that splice off of the factory alt wire and run to the firewall.
im just referring to the main alt wire, not the plug. you said you did the big 3 upgrade and when people do it, sometimes they leave the stock wiring and add to it and some people do like i did and remove the stock wires and that was what led me to my problems i was having.
yellow is the stock alt to battery wire.
the white ones are the 2 T's that splice off of the factory alt wire and run to the firewall.
im just referring to the main alt wire, not the plug. you said you did the big 3 upgrade and when people do it, sometimes they leave the stock wiring and add to it and some people do like i did and remove the stock wires and that was what led me to my problems i was having.
I bolted the fuse box back on and all of a sudden wires are failing continuity tests, unbolted and they passed. So i have an intermittent short somewhere so i am about to tear all the old loom of that runs from the + box to the fuse box. I really don't have the time to do this, but i have no choice.
07-08-2013, 03:19 PM
#23
Pls See My Post For Schematic and Explanation
I hope everyone had a fine Independence Day (spent mine backpacking in Yellowstone- What a great country we have!)
Hi Speed Crazy,
Earlier you had flashing charge light, then you tried to crank and nothing. What is the most current status?
More like an intermittent OPEN if you're losing continuity.
I strongly recommend restoring your wiring back to stock, so people can help you more effectively - without guess-work.
To help you restore to stock and understand the charging circuit wiring, please see my post (specific to the 22R-Eliable, but applicable ot most others) here.
Best of luck
Hi Speed Crazy,
Earlier you had flashing charge light, then you tried to crank and nothing. What is the most current status?
I strongly recommend restoring your wiring back to stock, so people can help you more effectively - without guess-work.
To help you restore to stock and understand the charging circuit wiring, please see my post (specific to the 22R-Eliable, but applicable ot most others) here.
Best of luck
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 07-08-2013 at 03:32 PM.
07-08-2013, 03:51 PM
#24
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I hope everyone had a fine Independence Day (spent mine backpacking in Yellowstone- What a great country we have!)
Hi Speed Crazy,
Earlier you had flashing charge light, then you tried to crank and nothing. What is the most current status?
More like an intermittent OPEN if you're losing continuity.
I strongly recommend restoring your wiring back to stock, so people can help you more effectively - without guess-work.
To help you restore to stock and understand the charging circuit wiring, please see my post (specific to the 22R-Eliable, but applicable ot most others) here.
Best of luck
Hi Speed Crazy,
Earlier you had flashing charge light, then you tried to crank and nothing. What is the most current status?
More like an intermittent OPEN if you're losing continuity.
I strongly recommend restoring your wiring back to stock, so people can help you more effectively - without guess-work.
To help you restore to stock and understand the charging circuit wiring, please see my post (specific to the 22R-Eliable, but applicable ot most others) here.
Best of luck
Current status:
I put everything back together, as close to stock as i can figure, and tried cranking again, still nothing.
Now, while the battery was out i measured 9 volts. With the battery hooked up i get a reading of 2.5-3.5 volts. I unhooked the fusible link and the battery read 8.5. All that tells me is that its not the starter, which was unlikely as i didn't touch it.
I bolted the fl back on and my reading dropped back to 3. I then started pulling fuses under the hood. After pulling everything but the 80 amp and the am1 & am2 my reading was still 3. So that rules out any accessories.
I am going to go remove am1 and am2 and see if i still have the drop. I would be willing to bet i do, as i have not touched those circuits to the best of my knowledge. or does the second wht from the alt hit one of them, i think someone said it did.
Either way thats what i have right now.
Thanks for your help.
EDIT: The diagram in you link references a charge fuse. Where is that located? My fuse box diagrams list no such fuse.
Last edited by SpeedCrazy; 07-08-2013 at 03:57 PM.
07-08-2013, 04:22 PM
#25
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Well i was right, the only fuse left in the under hood box is the 80amp and the drop is still there.
So i'm gonna try isolation wires off of that and see what i find.
In case you cant tell i'm making this up as i go along(the troubleshooting), this is my first day with a working multimeter and my first ever electrical troubleshooting session. So please don't assume i know anything.
So i'm gonna try isolation wires off of that and see what i find.
In case you cant tell i'm making this up as i go along(the troubleshooting), this is my first day with a working multimeter and my first ever electrical troubleshooting session. So please don't assume i know anything.
07-08-2013, 04:39 PM
#26
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The battery should read 12.7 volts with the volt meter, with the truck not running. and somewhere north of 14 volts with the truck running. Are you sure you are using the voltmeter correctly??
07-08-2013, 04:49 PM
#27
07-08-2013, 04:51 PM
#28
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So i pulled wires till i found the draw, and i won my money, its the heavy gauge wire that goes to the alt.
Rough diagram of what i am working with.
As noted my continuity tests say that the alt to fuse box is good. But yet that is where the short must be. Unless... its grounding out through the alt. Lemme go unhook the alt and try again.BRB
07-08-2013, 04:59 PM
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Doggone it! I was right. I unhooked the heavy gauge wire from the alt and my battery voltage jumped from 2 -> 9.5.
I am shorting the battery through the alternator..... Does this mean i have a bad alternator or what?
I am shorting the battery through the alternator..... Does this mean i have a bad alternator or what?
07-08-2013, 05:01 PM
#30
Your battery no-load voltage ^^ is too low. Try Recharging it off the car.
YES - you Da Man!
It is possible for rectifiers in alternator to go bad and cause drain even when nothing is on.
Try this:
Unscrew nut and disconnect thick white wire from "B" terminal of the alternator.
Measure resistance from the copper bolt to ground (i.e., ohm setting, red test probe on copper screw, black test probe on chassis ground/alternator body). You should get a very high resistance. I got 0.357 meg-ohm using my nice Fluke [0.395 meg-ohm with my HF special
] If you get significantly lower than that, you might have bad diodes or stator winding sorting to ground.
It is possible for rectifiers in alternator to go bad and cause drain even when nothing is on.
Try this:
Unscrew nut and disconnect thick white wire from "B" terminal of the alternator.
Measure resistance from the copper bolt to ground (i.e., ohm setting, red test probe on copper screw, black test probe on chassis ground/alternator body). You should get a very high resistance. I got 0.357 meg-ohm using my nice Fluke [0.395 meg-ohm with my HF special
] If you get significantly lower than that, you might have bad diodes or stator winding sorting to ground.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 07-08-2013 at 05:03 PM.
07-08-2013, 05:03 PM
#31
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Your battery no-load voltage ^^ is too low. Try Recharging it off the car.
YES, it is possible for rectifiers in alternator to go bad and cause drain even when nothing is on.
Try this:
Unscrew nut and disconnect thick white wire from "B" terminal of the alternator.
Measure resistance from the copper bolt to ground (i.e., ohm setting, red test probe on copper screw, black test probe on chassis ground/alternator body). You should get a very high resistance. I got 0.357 meg-ohm using my nice Fluke [0.395 meg-ohm with my HF special] If you get significantly lower than that, you might have bad diodes or stator winding sorting to ground.
YES, it is possible for rectifiers in alternator to go bad and cause drain even when nothing is on.
Try this:
Unscrew nut and disconnect thick white wire from "B" terminal of the alternator.
Measure resistance from the copper bolt to ground (i.e., ohm setting, red test probe on copper screw, black test probe on chassis ground/alternator body). You should get a very high resistance. I got 0.357 meg-ohm using my nice Fluke [0.395 meg-ohm with my HF special
] If you get significantly lower than that, you might have bad diodes or stator winding sorting to ground.
07-08-2013, 05:23 PM
#32
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Okay. Not sure which setting is mega ohms but i set it on 2000 ohms and it tested 1-2. So i dropped to 200 ohms and it tested 2.1.
How does that relate to the measurement you have?
Note: this measurement did not drastically differ noticeably whether the measurement was taken between the bolt and the alt body or the bolt and the chassis.
How does that relate to the measurement you have?
Note: this measurement did not drastically differ noticeably whether the measurement was taken between the bolt and the alt body or the bolt and the chassis.
07-09-2013, 05:39 AM
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If someone can confirm one way or another whether the alternator is bad(or needs more testing) that would be awesome.
If it is to be assumed bad i need to go ahead and order a new one, the local autoparts stores don't have one from a brand i would trust on the shelves. That being said, i may take this opportunity to upgrade to a heavier duty alternator.
If it is to be assumed bad i need to go ahead and order a new one, the local autoparts stores don't have one from a brand i would trust on the shelves. That being said, i may take this opportunity to upgrade to a heavier duty alternator.
07-09-2013, 05:59 AM
#34
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I had another go at testing the shorting theory.
I discovered that the 20k ohms setting yielded a x.xx number similar to rad4runner's measurement but i couldn't get anything to register on that setting.
I do however still get the readings on the lower settings as i detailed above.
I also, just a random thought, tested for continuity between the copper alternator bolt and the chassis, and it beeps loud and clear. So it is clear to me that it is shorted out.
Is there any other thing that could be wrong or do i just go ahead and order an alternator?
I discovered that the 20k ohms setting yielded a x.xx number similar to rad4runner's measurement but i couldn't get anything to register on that setting.
I do however still get the readings on the lower settings as i detailed above.
I also, just a random thought, tested for continuity between the copper alternator bolt and the chassis, and it beeps loud and clear. So it is clear to me that it is shorted out.
Is there any other thing that could be wrong or do i just go ahead and order an alternator?
07-09-2013, 08:10 AM
#35
Yeah, sounds like bad alt. However, because we are working remotely, and unlike shops that guess and make vehicle owners pay for their wrong guesses, we need to verify.
Please post pic good resolution (fills up whole screen) of your setting (200ohms?) and reading.
And you disconnected alt from battery, of course?
07-09-2013, 08:28 AM
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Both above shows you have 2 ohms between B terminal (Copper bolt) and ground, meaning shorted alt. Alt body and chassis are electrically connected (ground) so same reading.
Yeah, sounds like bad alt. However, because we are working remotely, and unlike shops that guess and make vehicle owners pay for their wrong guesses, we need to verify.
Please post pic good resolution (fills up whole screen) of your setting (200ohms?) and reading.
And you disconnected alt from battery, of course?
Yeah, sounds like bad alt. However, because we are working remotely, and unlike shops that guess and make vehicle owners pay for their wrong guesses, we need to verify.
Please post pic good resolution (fills up whole screen) of your setting (200ohms?) and reading.
And you disconnected alt from battery, of course?
Can't get a reading as i'm not at home. But with the circled setting selected i got 2.1
Yup i am disconnected from the battery. First thing i do when i pop the hood.
07-09-2013, 05:09 PM
#38
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1. I have a 22re not a v6
2. I don't have the time or tools to do that mod, if i buy a non bolt in i will be buying the bracket as well as my truck has been down for too long.
07-09-2013, 05:56 PM
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Well i'm outta time on this one. Just gonna order a stock 60 amp and upgrade sometime down the road, i hate to do it, but i need a working truck. Thanks for all your help guys.
