2 toyotas

New here any help greatly appreciated. I have a 93 Toyota pu 2WD. My son was driving it and it dyed thankfully right in front of the house. It will crank but won’t start. It blew the AM2 fuse. Put a new one in and blew right away. Now I have a circuit breaker in there tell I figure out what the real problem is. There is no power to the B+ pin in the diagnostic port under the hood. Wile I was cranking it over I noticed a little smoke coming from around the igniter. I found that the black/red stripe wire was melted. I got a new igniter but no change. I don’t have wiring diagram so I don’t know where that black/red wire gos. Yes the fuel pump dose work if I put power to it. Agin any help greatly appreciated.

scope103

If you're putting over-current into your truck (by virtue of a high-value circuit breaker), you're only making things worse. You're melting wires and connectors and will, soon enough, start a fire. First things first.

The "main" battery-voltage line from IG2 (which powers the ignition, among a lot of other things) is B-R. You may need to replace a lot of it once you find the short.

Lack of B+ at the diagnostic port means the truck will never start. B+ comes from the EFI relay, which is closed by a B-Y from the IGN fuse, which is powered by the B-R from IG2. So the EFI relay is probably not closing.

Was the igniter shorted? Or did you replace it because, well, it was close to the smoke?

2 toyotas

I replaced it thinking it may have shorted out.
what do you mean B-R, B-Y?
The circuit braker is a 30A just like the fuse.

scope103

Black-Red, Black-Yellow

Did you put your multimeter on the igniter first? Igniters do fail, but at 33 years old I would suspect wiring first.

2 toyotas

So this is where it all started. This is the tan wire in the plug on the igniter. It ground out on that little hook there by the screw. That tan wire turns into the B-R wire. I don’t know where that B-R wire gos and what else it controls.