87 - 22r High Idle, Timing off, need Help!!
#1
87 - 22r High Idle, Timing off, need Help!!
All,
A friend and I rebuilt his 22r, off his 87 pickup. The truck has a carb setup with PAIR valve, EGR, and Catalytic setup.
We had the head re-done, valve job, with slight head shave. Our machine shop gave us a thicker head gasket to compensate. Everything came together great.
Realize that this truck, has about 289,000 miles, and from the looks had the engine rebuilt before.
Anyway, here is what is going on with the truck:
1) we need to spray starting fluid in-order to get the truck started.
2) Once started the truck will idle, but it idles high.
3) The idle sounds like it is looping up and down.
4) The timing, with the vacuum hoses off, is around 15-25 degrees BTC.
5) Removing the vacuum hoses off the distributor does not make a difference.
6) Using a timing light, we are trying to get the timing to 0 degrees, but when we move the distributor down some, the truck sounds like it is starving for gas, and finally dies, at around 12degrees BTC.
The truck has not been registered for over 3 years or so, so we need this puppy to pass smog, here in California.
Any suggestions?
We both thing it is a combination of timing and carburetor, but don't know where to start?
Please help!!!
Also, where do you check rpms, is there a diagnostic port that We can hook up a rpm/dwell meter??
larrys93pickup
A friend and I rebuilt his 22r, off his 87 pickup. The truck has a carb setup with PAIR valve, EGR, and Catalytic setup.
We had the head re-done, valve job, with slight head shave. Our machine shop gave us a thicker head gasket to compensate. Everything came together great.
Realize that this truck, has about 289,000 miles, and from the looks had the engine rebuilt before.
Anyway, here is what is going on with the truck:
1) we need to spray starting fluid in-order to get the truck started.
2) Once started the truck will idle, but it idles high.
3) The idle sounds like it is looping up and down.
4) The timing, with the vacuum hoses off, is around 15-25 degrees BTC.
5) Removing the vacuum hoses off the distributor does not make a difference.
6) Using a timing light, we are trying to get the timing to 0 degrees, but when we move the distributor down some, the truck sounds like it is starving for gas, and finally dies, at around 12degrees BTC.
The truck has not been registered for over 3 years or so, so we need this puppy to pass smog, here in California.
Any suggestions?
We both thing it is a combination of timing and carburetor, but don't know where to start?
Please help!!!
Also, where do you check rpms, is there a diagnostic port that We can hook up a rpm/dwell meter??
larrys93pickup
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
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double check you've got the cam timing correct. may also want to also block the EGR passage to the intake to rule that out.
and with the engine cold, set the valves to .007" intake and .011" exhaust, and make sure when setting the timing, the vacuum hoses are also plugged, not just disconnected- if they're disconnected and not plugged, you'll run lean and die.
You can connect a tach to the "-" terminal of the coil. And dwell is not something you can adjust- it's taken care of internally by the igniter module.
and with the engine cold, set the valves to .007" intake and .011" exhaust, and make sure when setting the timing, the vacuum hoses are also plugged, not just disconnected- if they're disconnected and not plugged, you'll run lean and die.
You can connect a tach to the "-" terminal of the coil. And dwell is not something you can adjust- it's taken care of internally by the igniter module.
Last edited by abecedarian; 09-13-2009 at 08:18 PM.
#3
Registered User
should be 2 plugs coming off the ignitor/coil setup on the DS fender, one plug has like 5 wires hooked to..the other should STOP right there..thats the Factory Tach wire..or you can tap into the black wire coming out of the ignitor..theres a white wire and a black one..tap into the black one..
sounds like the problem is cam timing..
with the motor AT TDC on the oil pump...
there should be a little dimple on the cam..and it should be SLIGHTY left (with the crankshaft at 12'o clock the dimple on the cam will be like 11:45..)
should look like this..
if its not that..
make sure the EGR pipe isnt clogged up like a mo fo
make sure all your vacuum lines are hooked up in the correct places...
if its none of that..then..uhm...somebody else needs ta chime in..lol
*EDIT* dangit Abe..you beat me to it..LOL and sorry bout that HUGE pic..lol
sounds like the problem is cam timing..
with the motor AT TDC on the oil pump...
there should be a little dimple on the cam..and it should be SLIGHTY left (with the crankshaft at 12'o clock the dimple on the cam will be like 11:45..)
should look like this..
if its not that..
make sure the EGR pipe isnt clogged up like a mo fo
make sure all your vacuum lines are hooked up in the correct places...
if its none of that..then..uhm...somebody else needs ta chime in..lol
*EDIT* dangit Abe..you beat me to it..LOL and sorry bout that HUGE pic..lol
Last edited by camo31_10.50; 09-13-2009 at 08:36 PM.
#6
camo31"10.50",
Thanks for the reply. We adjusted the valves cold, at .007 and .011. We checked the timing, put the engine at TDC, with piston number one at TDC. we looked at the oil pump timing and it was at 0 degrees. When we reinstalled the head, we made sure that the cam "dimple" was at the top, and yea it was slightly to the left. We think the timing is ok, but we are trying to get it to zero degrees.
When we remove the vacuum lines off the distributor, it does not make any difference? That doesn't seem right, but then we are at idle, and there is not that much vacuum anyway?
Also, we can idle the truck with the air cleaner cover off, it still will idle, but keeps on looping, up and down.
We are thinking that the carb is not giving enough fuel when the timing is closer to TDC, this this sound right?
Please advise.
larrys93pickup
Thanks for the reply. We adjusted the valves cold, at .007 and .011. We checked the timing, put the engine at TDC, with piston number one at TDC. we looked at the oil pump timing and it was at 0 degrees. When we reinstalled the head, we made sure that the cam "dimple" was at the top, and yea it was slightly to the left. We think the timing is ok, but we are trying to get it to zero degrees.
When we remove the vacuum lines off the distributor, it does not make any difference? That doesn't seem right, but then we are at idle, and there is not that much vacuum anyway?
Also, we can idle the truck with the air cleaner cover off, it still will idle, but keeps on looping, up and down.
We are thinking that the carb is not giving enough fuel when the timing is closer to TDC, this this sound right?
Please advise.
larrys93pickup
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#9
Registered User
are you saying Canada aint too far from Temecula??? thought that was in like florida?? lmao
yea it sounds like a vacuum leak to me now
even at idle, if i remove the dizzy vacuum lines..my idle drops from about 900rpm down to about 700rpm or so..so its a noticeable drop
i've never had a vacuum advance go bad..but could this be the problem your having..if the vacuum advance goes bad then you wont be able set the timing right...right?(i mean after you set it and attach the vacuum lines it will go to some way off timing mark..maybe...lol)
are you sure the distributor is in there right???
its very easy to make that mistake trust me..
but with the motor at TDC via the oil pump, the rotor under the cab should be point at the number one plug..i'd check and make sure of that..i believe that would cause it to idle alllll kinds of funky..
of course im just throwing random ideas out there..i've never had this problem..so im just naming off things that i would check..lol
yea it sounds like a vacuum leak to me now
even at idle, if i remove the dizzy vacuum lines..my idle drops from about 900rpm down to about 700rpm or so..so its a noticeable drop
i've never had a vacuum advance go bad..but could this be the problem your having..if the vacuum advance goes bad then you wont be able set the timing right...right?(i mean after you set it and attach the vacuum lines it will go to some way off timing mark..maybe...lol)
are you sure the distributor is in there right???
its very easy to make that mistake trust me..
but with the motor at TDC via the oil pump, the rotor under the cab should be point at the number one plug..i'd check and make sure of that..i believe that would cause it to idle alllll kinds of funky..
of course im just throwing random ideas out there..i've never had this problem..so im just naming off things that i would check..lol
#10
camo31"10.50",
Thanks for the reply, no I live in Rialto, California. Near Ontario, California. It is about 40 miles north of Temecula.
My friend is having his dad look at the carb, and if possible, see if he can do a quick rebuild on the thing. I will also look at the EGR to see if it is stuck open, and causing the truck to die when I turn down the timing.
I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks,
larrys93pickup
Thanks for the reply, no I live in Rialto, California. Near Ontario, California. It is about 40 miles north of Temecula.
My friend is having his dad look at the carb, and if possible, see if he can do a quick rebuild on the thing. I will also look at the EGR to see if it is stuck open, and causing the truck to die when I turn down the timing.
I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks,
larrys93pickup
#12
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Location: Temecula Valley, CA
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We have an Ontario down here too... and an airport there too.
@larrys93pickup- make sure that the fuel level is in the middle of the sight glass in the float chamber too, before you start digging in to rebuild it.
@larrys93pickup- make sure that the fuel level is in the middle of the sight glass in the float chamber too, before you start digging in to rebuild it.
Last edited by abecedarian; 09-13-2009 at 10:58 PM.
#14
Registered User
right on the front of it, and if the truck has been rebuilt b4 it might have a cam in it, i dunno for other people but i set my dist timing at 16* BTC and its where it runs best wont really run to much lower than that...
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