3.0 ZERO CLEARANCE valve measurement & adjustment (yes, I have searched)
11-21-2012, 10:25 AM
#21
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Thread Starter
Which tool are you having trouble with? The curved, scissor looking one that presses the valve open or the one that holds it open to remove the shim? I use a large curved hook tool to get in between the cam and the shim. Then pry it to open the valve just enough to get the sst holder in there.
11-21-2012, 12:43 PM
#22
You can use a curved needle nose, small pry bar, bent screwdriver, something smooth so it doesn't scratch the cam. Push it in between the cam and the puck and then put the holder in place
11-22-2012, 09:42 AM
#23
Have fun. I was having the same problem you are having. I ended up just pulling the engine. I was sick of my back hurting bending into the engine bay. Don't put it back together without adjusting that (#6)valve. Being its prob the worst one of them all. I first started pulling the hoses off the firewall in the rear and it helped a little. They give u no room to work. Good luck and try diff tools. Watever works, it doesn't have to b designed to do the job.
11-25-2012, 07:22 AM
#24
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Thank you gentlemen. I just didn't want to mess up the cam/shim surface. But I think a little blemish on the cam (which may be hard enough that I don't mark it up anyway) is probably less significant than burning a valve.
11-25-2012, 07:55 AM
#25
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Have fun. I was having the same problem you are having. I ended up just pulling the engine. I was sick of my back hurting bending into the engine bay. Don't put it back together without adjusting that (#6)valve. Being its prob the worst one of them all. I first started pulling the hoses off the firewall in the rear and it helped a little. They give u no room to work. Good luck and try diff tools. Watever works, it doesn't have to b designed to do the job.
I ALWAYS remove the hood when doing anything under there other than an oil change. It opens up TONS of light, plus you can reach everything easier from all sides. 4 bolts & it's off.
11-27-2012, 09:30 AM
#26
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Agreed. Removing the hood was the first thing I did.
Well, last night proved that the SST is totally unneeded. Yes, it is the right way to do it, but a flat screwdriver between the cam and shim was all that was needed to get the bucket-holder in place and the shim out. That steel is so hard that there isn't a scratch visible anywhere. Stealership actually has the correct 6E shim I need in stock, so I may actually get her buttoned up tonight (knock on wood)!
Well, last night proved that the SST is totally unneeded. Yes, it is the right way to do it, but a flat screwdriver between the cam and shim was all that was needed to get the bucket-holder in place and the shim out. That steel is so hard that there isn't a scratch visible anywhere. Stealership actually has the correct 6E shim I need in stock, so I may actually get her buttoned up tonight (knock on wood)!
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