rdlsz24

After putting things back together after a head gasket and timing chain replacement, my water pump is leaking. It's leaking before I even start the truck, so I know it would spray if I fired it up. I started adding coolant to the radiator and the water pump started leaking at the top just below the head once I got about a gallon of coolant dumped in.

When putting it back together, I used a new gasket, but when I tried to tighten the bolts to the recommended 27ft-lbs, I broke off 2 They broke before I even got to 15ft-lbs. So I stopped before I broke off more. I was able to get the broken bolts out of the timing cover using vise grips. I'm going to buy new bolts and try to get them to 27ft-lbs, but is there anything else you guys do to make sure the water pump doesn't leak? Like RTV? Or just use the paper gasket only? Any suggestions are appreciated.

Rob

drew303

Hey Rob

I had a helluva time with my water pump to.

The previous owner used RTV and the gasket. Ok it finally started to leak after I put in a 3-row new radiator. Going from a clogged rusted out radiator to a brand-new oversized one it was very obvious I was putting way more pressure on the waterpump. So it sprung a leak out of the gasket.

Bought a new gasket, cleaned up the water pump mating surface, used silicone on bothsides of the gasket, mated it. tried to torque everything to about 15ft/lb and snapped two bolts! .. didnt even get to 10lb LOL.

Got new studs/bolts, hand tightened to just before you get that "the bolt is turning but its not going any deeper, the head is breaking off" feeling.

ran for awhile, BAM LEAK out of the gasket AGAIN.

The silicone puts to much space between the pump and the front timing chain cover and becomes a weak area for pressure to escape. So I got another gasket, no silicone this time. Got it all cleaned up, back together. Hasn't leaked since and it's been 6+ months on the new 3-row radiator.


Also, the pump sprung a leak about 2 months ago out the eye hole. Pump seals go. Replaced the pump and did the same no silicone gasket installation. No leaks, runs fine.

Don't torque the bolts on, just hand tighten them. They don't have to be on their super tight, just get good and snug. IT's aluminum you're working with and it can't take much strain before cracking.

rdlsz24

Thanks for the info! I used RTV on the water pump side before putting the gasket on. I figured more sealing would be better lol. I guess I should get another gasket and try again without the RTV.

I thought 27ft-lbs was alot for aluminum. When putting things back together I made sure I only went to the recommended torque specs so as not to strip, etc. I'll try your suggestion.

Rob

maxpower_hd

I used Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant. It is the brush on kind. You only need a thin layer. It resists antifreeze and is good for high temperatures. Mine has been together almost a year with no leaks so far.

tkm433

First off where did you get the 27ft-lbs info from???????

If I recall the water pump bolts are a M8x1.25 and if you check the general Torque Specs for that size bolt depending on the grade of the bolt you will notice 27ftlbs is for a 9T rated bolt and the water pump at most calls for a 6T rated bolt but if I had to guess it is a 5t or even a 4t bolt.

4T Flanged head bolt 10 ftlbs
5T Flanged head bolt 13 ftlbs
6T Flanged head bolt 15 ftlbs
7T Flanged head bolt 21 ftlbs
8T Flanged head bolt 24 ftlbs
9T Flanged head bolt 27 ftlbs

If I had to guess the water pump bolts are rated at 4T and maybe 5T on the 22re motor. I do not recall seeing any markings on the bolts that would mark them as a higher rated bolt.

On the V6 motor they call for 13ftlbs and 14ftlbs for their water pump bolts so I would guess the 22re bolts at most are rated at 14ftlbs based on the size and quality or the bolt.

I forget since it has been a year since I replaced my water pump but are all of the bolts the same length? If not then you might of installed a longer bolt in a hole designed for a shorter one and the bolt hit bottom and thus broke. The other issue is the amount of threads on the bolt. Some bolts have a non threaded section near the head of the bolt and if you used the wrong bolt in the wrong hole it could of also bottomed out the threads before it was able to tighten the water pump to the timing cover.

rollover_yota

I think the big lesson here is to replace the stock w/p bolts. cavition and electrolis (electrical current flowing threw dismilar metals via the coolant) kills those low torque bolts. also not a bad idea to check your grounding strap from the block to the firewall. high mileage chevy motors had the same problem.

slater442w30

Not sure where they got numbers from, my factory service manual says 27 ft lbs for timing cover bolts around the water pump, but show absolutley no specs anywhere for the water pump. I just snug them down and go, never had a leak or broken bolt, done about 9 of these now. Maybe got ft lbs and in lbs mixed up?

rdlsz24

Yeah just getting them snug without RTV worked for me.

Rob

GSGALLANT

Yeah, I'd be surprised if the spec is 27 ft-lb for the 22RE water pump. Both the 3VZE and the 5VZFE waterpump bolt specs are 14 ft-lb.

longhungsilver

ya you just got the timing cover bolts and water pump ones confused.. no way its 27 foot pounds.. and I just used the paper gasket and hi-tack spray