old4runner

the bearing seized in my 89 pickup (22re) tensioner pulley for the power steering pump belt, I called the dealer yesterday and they can't get it (the tensioner assembly) until Monday and I need to have the truck back by saturday night, does anyone know of a way to get this thing back together sooner? maybe a bearing that is interchangeable?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I have a selection of bearings that will likely fit. Measure the inner and outer bearing diameters and I can check what I have. Can be shipped via Express Mail to arrive by Sat. Or pull out the bearing and see if you might be able to clean it up and regrease it. I always do this every time I replace those belts. Or if you have A/C, might have a look at the bearing in the A/C belt pulley, it is often the same size as the p/s pulley bearing.

blue_CA_yota

I got mine from NAPA, they had it in stock. It's the idler pulley. Think it cost me $40.
The only custom fab I needed was I had to add a washer on either side of the pulley between the retaining plates..

NAPA part # 38036
*the pulley had a smaller diameter, but it can be compensated for using the tension adjustment screw*

ayoung101

that's easy, just drive without power steering for a few days till you get the right part. i did it for a few months when my tensioner bearing went out. it won't hurt anything cuz there isn't anything else that runs off the same belt. and above 5mph, you won't even notice you don't have power steering.

rustypigeon

You can get the bearing for about $10 at a bearing supply house such as Kaman Industries.

The bearing is an NSK 6204DDU

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Drive without it!!!

lol!


You can get the bearing from Advance Auto for less the $20, actually I think it was less than $10!!

jackbower24yota

Testing

jackbower24yota

I have never bloged, but figuired it was a great way to learn more about my truck. I have a 89 4runner that I love. Im trying to get it to where its reliable but so far i have to fix a bad leak in the front, replace or rebuild tranny and rear diff, and eventually get all the rust taken care of. other than that Im happy with it. So whats the deal do i have to worry about spelling and stuff.

iamsuperbleeder

no not really, but I'd try to make my own thread if you're just going to talk about your new truck, instead of highjacking someone else's


lol, welcome to YotaTech!

old4runner

Thanks guys, I had to go to Rapid City (I hate cities) today, while I was there I stopped at the Napa on Omaha street, they hooked me up with a new bearing and pressed it in the old pulley free of charge.

raydouble

Good to hear you got it fixed cheap.
Here is a Timken part number for the idler pulley bearing also, for future searchers.

Timken part# 204PP

kiyobrown

I just fixed this as well. Dealership wanted $150, but that's bc they were trying to sell me a new pulley with a bearing in it, instead of just a new bearing to put in the old pulley. Folks here are very good about steering you in the right direction. Glad you got it fixed cheap!

iamsuperbleeder

so it's a 204 bearing, huh? just by seeign the pics, I would have guessed a 203 I was close...

that's good info to know!

fissure333

i'm kinda gettin used to the noise. it's one of those fixes you wait to do until it's too late. maybe i'll take the trip to NAPA (aka "Never Any Parts Available") and see if they have one. doubt it.

raydouble

These people will have it......
Don't know how close they are too you.

BTW my buddy waited to long and pulley turned itself inside out. Lost his belt.

https://ec.kamandirect.com/kamandire...nchLocator.jsp

raydouble

Mine only cost like 5 bucks, so I would rather just change it out for a new one.

DrivewayMech

Here are the three fixes I found:

1. Toyota's parts dept. carries the pulley/bearing assy., for about $200.00! I laughed when the guy at the parts counter quoted the price and advised him that I could get a brand new high-output alternator for the same amount. He didn't share the humor, but he did concede that the price was a little over-the-top. I declined.

2. Napa does NOT carry a pulley/bearing assy. that fits. The closest is part #38036, which has a bearing inner diameter too large for the spindle and too small for the OEM sleeve. They do however carry the exact replacement bearing to match the OEM pulley and sleeve. Napa part# 6204-2RSJ. One has only to have the old one pressed out and the new one pressed in. I couldn't go with this one because the pulley was so badly damaged when it seized.

3.Dayco makes a somewhat larger diameter pulley/bearing assy. Part# 89034. I picked one up at a local auto parts store. It fits the spindle like a glove w/o the OEM sleeve, but you'll need a belt about 1.5" longer to accommodate the larger pulley. Slap a smaller washer on each side before bolting up and you're in business. The bearings are sealed, so you can trash the old dust guards. I ended up using this one and it worked out great.

MortonPhotographic

Man I am really greatful for the Yotatech forums... I don't know if I could finish my truck without you guys.

Anyway, I need to replace my bearing too, it just doesn't feel right to me so I figure I might as well before it all goes bad. My auto parts store had nothing (although I did get a complete new pulley/bearing assembly for the AC belt). They might have the bearing, but before I go back I figured I would look on eBay.

You can find bearings with very similar part numbers on eBay for $3 to $20. There is even a guy selling a bearing he states is specifically for our application, but he wants upwards of $20.

What I have figured out is the bearing we need is exactly 47mm out diameter (OD), 20mm inner diameter (ID) and 14mm thick or wide.

The bearing that came off my truck says NSK 6204DU (only one "D" as opposed to the model number listed above 6204DDU). It has plastic sheilds.

Some of the bearings on eBay have metal shields and the letters after 6204 are different--my problem is I have no idea what these mean and I hate to just ignore them. Several bearings have the exact same dimensions as what came out of mine. P/N 6204 and 204PP (Timken as listed above) seem to be cross-referenced with other brands among the various bearings I find.

So this leads me to the questions... can I buy any bearing with the correct dimensions? Do the extension letters matter? Are steel shields better than plastic? My plastic sheilds come out, can I just clean and repack my bearing with grease, or should I just replace it?

Thanks to anyone who might be able to help.

Olas

I went to the local auto shop (advanced auto) and was able to get a bearing this same diameter from them. The guy was convinced they wouldn't have the bearing by it self and that I was going to have to buy the whole pulley w/ the bearing. We did end up finding the bearing listed as a "idler pulley bearing" for my truck and it was only around $10.

I really doubt you'll have any issues as long as the bearing you get is the correct dimensions

MortonPhotographic

Okay, now that I asked all the questions above, I decided to buy this bearing:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

There are 5 bearings left in this auction as of 7/31/2010

I chose this bearing because it was an NSK, it was the correct dimensions, I liked the metal shields, and because with my eBay bucks that were about to expire it cost me under $2.60--so what have I got to lose?

In the auction I found some good info on the letters after the part numbers as well. ZZ stands for the double metal, non contact shields and I went with C3 because it had greater tolerances for increased heat expansion--basically I figure this one can handle a little more heat than the other one I was looking at.

Please keep in mind I have no idea what I am doing! 8)