22re new motor issues..
#1
22re new motor issues..
I have just installed a new motor in my 22re pickup. It has a cam, ported head, higher compression and whatnot, supposed to have more power than a stocker. It is actually putneys stage 2 motor- (http://www.22reperformance.com/Home%...20Engines.html)
I got it all done, checked everything, timed it, adjusted tps, new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, filters everything and the thing had no power. It runs really good but just dont have the power.
I remember like 2 years ago, i put a header with full exhaust and a k&n intake on it and it really woke the motor up. It had nice power and drove great. Shortly after, the motor just lost compression and started smoking and also lost power. So i finally got the money to do the new motor and its done.
I can not figure out why the new motor has no power. It feels like my old worn out motor. I am going to check fuel pressure tomorrow and if that is good, i am completely out of ideas...
I checked the compression with maybe 20 minutes of run time on the motor and the readings were #1- 130 #2- 150 #3-140 #4- 120.
I just checked it again and they read #1- 150 #2- 155 #3- 155 #4- 135 and this is maybe 20 minutes run time after the first compression test. So the compression is getting better but still should be somewhere around 180-190.
Does anyone out there have and ideas what the problem might be????
I got it all done, checked everything, timed it, adjusted tps, new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, filters everything and the thing had no power. It runs really good but just dont have the power.
I remember like 2 years ago, i put a header with full exhaust and a k&n intake on it and it really woke the motor up. It had nice power and drove great. Shortly after, the motor just lost compression and started smoking and also lost power. So i finally got the money to do the new motor and its done.
I can not figure out why the new motor has no power. It feels like my old worn out motor. I am going to check fuel pressure tomorrow and if that is good, i am completely out of ideas...
I checked the compression with maybe 20 minutes of run time on the motor and the readings were #1- 130 #2- 150 #3-140 #4- 120.
I just checked it again and they read #1- 150 #2- 155 #3- 155 #4- 135 and this is maybe 20 minutes run time after the first compression test. So the compression is getting better but still should be somewhere around 180-190.
Does anyone out there have and ideas what the problem might be????
#2
Registered User
40 minutes? I would wait at least 500miles for those rings to properly seat in. x2 on what gnarly said. After the first 20 minutes at varying rpm between 2000-3000RPM to break in the cam, you should have went out and drove it like to stole it with some WOT runs under 4,000rpm letting the motor coast down from those rpms on its own back down to about 2500 rpm. The best for this is mountain passes at above 2,500 rpm.
#5
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lancaster Tn
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I have 160 miles on my new build. It keeps getting faster. I live in some pretty steep hills. I can judge by how fast it climbs a certain long grade steep hill. Its jumped 10 mph faster up the hill after 100 miles. Also dont put much faith in the cluster oil pressure gauge. I added a manual gauge. I had zero pressure at idle. The new gauge shows 25lbs idle and 50lbs cruising at 55. 75lbs at higher revs. Makes me ponder on temp gauge now. It may be just as sad as the old oil gauge. Its running just under 1/2 way when warm. New engines makes you wonder way to much. I plan to check compression at the 500 mile mark along with a re torque of the head bolts, and valve adjustment.
#6
Putneys has been great. They have been trying to help me out in every way they can. As far as the motor goes, it runs really good and even looks nice. I just hope my power will come alive sometime. Like i said, i have checked over everything on it so i might just need to drive it...
Heres a few pics of it..
Here is the truck the motor is in
Here it is after unwrapping it
All done
Heres a few pics of it..
Here is the truck the motor is in
Here it is after unwrapping it
All done
Last edited by 84 yota ex-cab; 06-08-2010 at 10:48 PM.
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#9
I just did a leak down test and another compression test and here are the results:
Leakdown
#1- 8%
#2- 8%
#3- 8%
#4- 11%
Compression test w/o oil
#1- 155
#2- 155
#3- 160
#4- 150
Compression test with squirting oil in cyl
#1- 160
#2- 160
#3- 165
#4- 155
So... looks like the rings are somewhat sealing and the valves and also sealing. I checked the camshaft timing and it is right on. I have about 300 miles on the motor when i did the tests. It is really making me wonder why the compression is still low but the leakdown test is really good....
I dont know what else to do!!!!
Leakdown
#1- 8%
#2- 8%
#3- 8%
#4- 11%
Compression test w/o oil
#1- 155
#2- 155
#3- 160
#4- 150
Compression test with squirting oil in cyl
#1- 160
#2- 160
#3- 165
#4- 155
So... looks like the rings are somewhat sealing and the valves and also sealing. I checked the camshaft timing and it is right on. I have about 300 miles on the motor when i did the tests. It is really making me wonder why the compression is still low but the leakdown test is really good....
I dont know what else to do!!!!
#10
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Leadville Colorado
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Just drive it for a while and see how it pans out. You do have some kind of a warranty right? Also, keep in mind you are pushing 33's so I don't know how much power you expect out of it. That said, it appears you know what you are doing so I would just stay on top of it and if you aren't happy make them exchange it for a new motor.
#11
Yea, i have a 1 year unlimited mile warranty so i guess if it doesnt get any better, they are going to get the motor back. I talked to the guy who built the motor and he said that he just tested two of the same motors as mine and they were both at 180 psi compression without being run at all. Kinda weird....
#13
Registered User
You have a cam, a ported head and a header, try advancing the timing a little bit to take advantage of the performance parts you have added. Stock settings are for stock engines, but when you add a cam, ported head and header the engine is no longer stock so you need to retune it a little to get the added power out of it.
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