Michigan Mud Farmer

I've searched high and low here , but I can't find anything that matches my bog. I have a 22re with an auto trans and 31 inch tires. I expect this to have consistent low power. but the power loss isn't consistent.

The car starts up cold and runs good, but only for a couple miles, then it's as if it should downshift for power, or just have more power for the gear it's in, when in gear you tromp on it it takes 2+ seconds before coming to life if it does at all. also in park, when warm if your slowy rev it it revs fine, but if you rev it at a traditional rev speed it spits, sputters and coughs then revs up almost stalling.

Also when driving down the road, after about 5-6 miles holding steady at 45-50 mph it keeps missing which also gets worse as time goes on. Could this thing just need driving from sitting? The car also never gets to operating temp and obviously doesn't blow hot air. Simililar to a head gasket, but any time I blew a head gasket before, the temp would get high, but no heat out of the vents. I figured there is probably no thermostat in it.

I just bought the thing off E-bay and had it shipped 900 miles, the ad claimed that it runs very good, and the engine, trans, transfer, head, Muffler, shocks, timing chain and gears were all new, and they all do look like he was telling me the truth. except the runs very good.

Here is what I have already chased down.
Plugs all clean and the right part# and gapping
Distributer cap and rotor clean and not worn
Air cleaner brand new with no obstructions


Lots of posts have pointed to TPS and AFM, im not overly familiar with the electronics of 22re, mostly hard parts. the only thing I think left before taking it in is the CAT. The thing absolutely stinks after I drove it home 11 jmiles yesterday,

Any and all advise will be greatly, greatly, appreciated.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

you didn't mention anything about engine codes....see this

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html

Make sure you give that guy that sold it a bad review....What probably happened is he did replace all of that stuff but mis-routed some vac lines or perhaps has a bad intake manifold leak and couldn't get it to run right so he dumped it.
The TPS and AFM do come to mind for your issue but it could be something much simpler than that. Many things are removed in the process of changing out the timing chain and it's easy to forget to put it back all the same way. It happened to me....I forgot to bolt down the ground cluster on top of the intake manifold and it would not start til I did.
ZUK

Michigan Mud Farmer

It didn't throw a check engine light, so I assume no codes. I have a global obd II scanner, but I don't think it will hook up to an 86 Toyota.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

I re-read your post some more.....the part about never getting to operating temp. could be a stuck open thermostat or no thermostat at all.

I don't suspect anything wrong with the exhaust being clogged and such mainly because you said it runs good when cold. That puts the issue is under the hood somewhere.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Recommend you follow the link I posted above and check the codes by jumping the TE1 to E1.

spdjnky

Assuming it does throw a code...does the light have to stay on before you can read the code? I thought I have read somewhere that the '86 and earlier ecu's do not store codes?

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Your diagnostic connector is probably located next to the battery....next to the fuse box. see this
http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...CheckConnector

spdjnky

Actually mine is on the drivers side like picture A in 4crawler's page.

Okay enough of me hijacking this thread.

Thanks for the info ZUK

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Ya....I re-read the "off-road.com" link....looks like 86 and earlier are on the left fender.

Michigan Mud Farmer

Great stuff guys, keep it coming. I am at work all day so I can't fart with it any till tonight.

I also read somewhere about poor running due to an alternator. When I first start this truck up it does almost stall out if I poump the breaks.

Any Ideas on that?

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

ya....isn't there a check valve in the large vac line(about 1/2" inch thick or larger) that goes from brake booster to intake manifold? Bad check valve? I don't know how to test for that.....maybe clamp the vac line closed and then pump the brakes.

Michigan Mud Farmer

I pulled codes 21 & 52. My long time Yota wrench says timing. Gonna play with it this Sunday and I'll report back any progress. Any other Ideas greatly appreciated before I tear in to her.

slater442w30

Yeah, if the water is never warming up, then the ECT (electric coolant temp) sensor is never getting hot, telling the ecm (brain) in the truck that "hey, I am cold, better send more fuel to keep me running in choke mode" so that would be consistent with the stinking cat, misses at speed, just too much fuel and everything else is screwed up because it doesnt know how hot it is. Also replace the radiator cap while you are in there, they fail alot causing problems.

Michigan Mud Farmer

Thanks Slater, I had planned on throwing in a thermostat this weekend, I think I'll do the rad cap too. That would be great if all the symptems were related and that easy. I will keep you guys updated on my results. I've had lots of trucks, but this is the first internet help club I've ever been on and I am greatly appreciating the benefits.

Is the ECT something I should replace too?

ozziesironmanoffroad

im not sure about how much they cost, but if theyre pretty cheap, might as well. it sure aint gonna hurt nothin

Michigan Mud Farmer

I changed the Oxygen Sensor. No gain. Does anyone know how to clear the codes on these systems? or do they go away afer 30 starts or something like that? Still planning on the rest of the fixes this weekend. I will keep posted.

Michigan Mud Farmer

Ok its gonna be freezing cold (actually 20 degrees below freezing) so I decided on a little more garage time tonight. I changed the o2 sensor like I previously stated, now my knock sensor code has gone away. I did clean the connections of the wire, but didn't actually change it. The thing is lso in plain site, any idea why ALLDATA would call for 3.6 hours? ANy way I still can't get it to temp or any heat ( I bought the thermostat and cts, but forgot the gasket. Wouldn't you think the people at Advance would say "hey that doesn't come with a gasket") Any way tommorow I'll change the thermostat and CTS tommorow and see what happens.

I also tried adjusting the timing and had no luck. I didn't use a light, but I will this weekend. I don't actually know how to use a light but ny friend does.

As always, I'll keep the post updated.

Michigan Mud Farmer

Ok, farted around with this thing all last night. saw another thread that made me look at my TPS for sticking. I looked at mine, and found no issues with sticking so I buttoned it back up and called it a night.

This afternoon I was going to head to my buddys to mess with the timing and the son of a gun is racing like mad. I shut it off and adjusted the TPS since it was the last thing I touched. I coudn't get it right again.

Anyway I limped it at 25-30 miles an hour to my buddys, now with a new problem, and commonced to puting a light on it and seeing what was really up with the timing. the sucker was dead on. Now I frustrated even further.

Long story short, I said if it already runs like sh#$ what would happen if I pulled of the connector for the TPS? Turns out the son of a gun roared to life. Still a gutless automatic terd, but 3 times the power this thing has had since I got it.

I haven't put a new TPS on yet because they are special order, but thats gotta be it right? It drives good now except it shifts slightly irraticly.

If anyone thinks I should spend my $100.00 elswhere please let me know