live4soccer7

Here it is.

It seems a bit recessed, so I can only get to maybe the top 1/4 of the nut to fit a socket onto it. I've got it soaking in pb blaster right now. Any other suggestions would be great.

i've got the ubolts and everything else removed on both sides, this seems to be the last thing holding the axle on each side.

Teuf

You could grind away some of the leaf spring, to get to the nut there.

live4soccer7

You are a genius!!!! I think I will give that try tomorrow if it's not raining. Thanks.

cws9685

not sure what your doing but take that plate off and you can get a socket on there or grind the nut off but make sure you put c clamps on your leaf springs to keep them from flying apart

slacker

iTrader: (1)

crank some c-clamps on to hold the pack together .. makes things a little easier and safer , might even "suck" up the sunk nut


.

Teuf

Necessity is the mother of invention.

Teuf

Yea Yea that plate looks removable aye?

live4soccer7

yep... I was just out there. For some reason I was thinking that there was a lip on the bottom side of the plate that the bolt was catching on, but I looked at it closer about an hour ago and took a hammer to the plate (rusted on). Sure enough it came off, so I went ahead and went for removing the nut. It seems the bolt it's on is just spinning b/c it's rusted on. It's dark out now and can't really see much, but it's soaking in pb still and will get back to work on it tomorrow.

Etype R

That nut does not hold your leaf springs to your axles at all. That is what keeps your leaf spring pack together. If the springs are stuck on the axle, hit them from underneath with a hammer.

live4soccer7

well shoot!!! then I've got the axle pretty much off. freakin sweet. Now i've just got to figure out the lift stuff. I've got access to a welder, but just need some direction. Lookin at 3 in. spring and 2 in. body or so.

Teuf

Why a body lift?

live4soccer7

just a post up I had mentioned that I have hopes of swapping the 4.3 vortec in the truck and it would give me some extra hood clearance.

For now, I can get away with the 3" spring lift, but have been just reading everything I can find on it b/c I have never done it before and want to get it right the first time. I can fab stuff up, have a welder etc... Just need some direction on what is the best way and how not to waste money (more than necessary) on it.

myyota

Thats the center pin that holds the springs together, it is not bolted to the rear axle. If you have the u bolts, the shocks, and the brake lines removed then the axle should be loose. There is no need to remove that nut and bolt what so ever to remove the rear axle from your truck.

live4soccer7

yeah, we kind of figured that out in the thread. not quite sure what I was thinking. I'll actually take the axle off tomorrow if it ever quits raining.

Just kind of a quick question that someone probably knows, what do you use to plug the brake lines when you are taking them off? I always hate working with them b/c I get fluid freakin everywhere.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

If your going lift springs, your replacing the breaklines any way. Throw a set of vice grips on the rubber lines to clear the axle and give you some room to work.

live4soccer7

Well it would be nice for future work to find something that would work nice. Whether it be a plug of some sort or a cap that screws on etc....

I am actually thinking that I'm going to clean up the axle and coat everything with por15 that was taken off and then work on the engine (compression check and then rebuild accordingly and do a couple upgrades. Cam, header etc.... already have a weber 32/36 on it and removed the smog crap) Once I get the engine fixed up a bit then I will go back to the suspension.

I think for suspension I'll go with the 4" Allpro or TG (any input on one or the other is welcome) on the front and rear and then get the bilstein 5150 or 7100 shocks on the front and rear as well. I will go ahead and fab all the hangers, shackles mounts etc... out of 1/4" steel unless otherwise suggested.

I have access to a welder, but want to get my own. I was thinking of the newer lincolns 135A 115v 60hz single phase wire feed welders. My neighbor has a plasma cutter that should make cutting the individual pieces out that will be needed an easy task. I've got all the other tools necessary. If anyone has suggestion or input on welders as well that would be awesome. I do have welding experience.

I have already rebuild the front axle and the rear brakes, so it should be pretty solid once I'm done fixin up some of the random things and the engine.

Edit: the end goal is to, most likely, have a 4.3 vortec swapped in. That's the engine of choice at the moment. Someone on here suggested it and I've done a lot of research on it and like it more as I read more about it.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

You need to double check the spring lengths, I beleive the 4" are longer eye to eye than the three 3". Not a major problem but you will have to move the front hanger again or have crappy shackle angles.

live4soccer7

I don't mind moving the shackles. Shouldn't be too much of a problem considering everything else that needs made up.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Don't remember if the SA trucks have the shackle tubes through the frame or not. But it won't be as easy as moving shackles as you will stand to change the location of the axle. The front spring hanger will need to be moved forward, which yes is a change in axle location from stock but a change for the better. Plus it would be easier to have a bad impact on steering geometry, particularly caster (or is it chamber I forget) you want to avoid the dreaded death wobble.

live4soccer7

I'll do some more reading about. I'm gonna clean up the rear axle and coat it then I'll head up to the engine and tear it apart and rebuild it. Once that is done then I will be back onto the suspension as long as there isn't anything else yelling at me on the truck.