DesertToy86

brand new 84 22 r less than 2000 miles on it.
when I use the engine to break I get a faint wiff of oil coming inside the cab.
the motor does consume about a half a quart of oil in the last five hundred miles.

Logan81Pickup

Sounds like you didn't break in the rings well enough. When you broke it in did you make sure to always be accelerating or decelerating?

DesertToy86

Its was a steady mix of both. Rapid accel, cruise for a awhile, hard decel with motor. Mix it up. The way i was taught was if anything catastrophic was gunna happen it would be in the accel decel of the motor.

A quick compression test wont hurt.

A guy had told me that oil can slap into the egr on engine braking and burn off there. Or thru the pcv valve back onto the hot intake. Ive got excelent oil pressure.

ojm3

inline engines take a bit longer to break in. mine is recently rebuilt with about 1100 miles on it, and i use just a tad bit less oil than you. Def sounds like your rings arent seated entirely. Nothing to freak over, just regular break in things. Your more than likely getting small amount of blow by during deceleration. DONT BEAT THE MOTOR TO SET YOUR RINGS!! Think bro if this was a 2014 fresh off the lot would you race the motor accel, and deccel to set new rings? HELL NAW lol taker easy man gas mileage will get better and blow by will cease.

Logan81Pickup

You may as well be hard on it at first. If it's gonna go it's better to have it go early.

aztoyman

I've never had high oil consumption after a rebuild. Never had to WORK at seating rings either.

I don't use synthetic oil on a rebuilt engine for the first couple thousand miles and IIRC Toyota does not recommend it on your new truck. The last couple new Toyota trucks I bought had a decal in the window saying so.

Try running dino oil if your not already.

You have high vacuum on decal so could also be valve guides or valve stem seals.

Not sure how oil can SLAP on your EGR.

If it was honed properly it really shouldn't take a long time to seat rings. I have seen rings put on upside down. Usually a lot of oil consumption though.Hopefully the rebuilder replaced valve guides and used good seals too.

You have a good idea to check compression. Take note if any spark plugs are oily/ sooty and go from there.

Kiroshu

MY 86 4runner is the same way... only it has 270,000 miles on the original engine...



Compression test a good place to start... but as stated above in previous posts depending on driving habits the engine may not be fully broken in.

Check crank case ventilation system(PCV system).

Valve stem seals is a possibility. High vacuum occurrences usually pull some oil from the valve guides. Some of which is normal. Too much is not.

DesertToy86

My thought too logan

I dont run it hard like that anymore. Definitely no synthetics
I use 10_30 valvoline ( napa) with comp cams additive.
What the builder recommended

Pulling plugs and compression test today if the rain dont set in.

LT1UltraZ

there is a tiny difference between a factory engine being put together by machines vs joe blow rebuilding an engine in the garage.

Drive it like you stole it and hope the rings seat but seeing how you have over 2k on it already you are pretty much screwed if the rings did not seat.

ojm3

I guess... To each his own. I had mine built by a man who makes 7-800 hp machines naturally aspirated on the regular. From circle track to tractor pulls to mud trucks. I was told drive miss Daisy for the first 500 miles change the oil. By that times is as broke in as it will be. Looking at the 3 motors on the stands with over 100k, I figured I should listen. But ya bud run it hard seat those rings lol

LT1UltraZ

i am sure all those circle track cars and tractors and mud trucks drive nice and easy for 500 miles

osv

that sounds like an oil leak onto hot exhaust manifold to me.

have someone else drive the truck while you are in another vehicle, behind your truck... have 'em tell you via cell phone when they are accelerating or de-acclerating... look for blue smoke... if it's bad, you'll see it without any need for a phone call :-(

burning(not leaking) a quart of oil every thousand miles, on a brand new motor, is excessive... i'd be tempted to go back asking for a repair.

30 years ago i used non-detergent oil for new engines, because it worked so well for seating the rings... fast forward 15 years, and the oil had turned to crap(no zinc, etc.), the metallurgy for cams and tappets had changed, and the entire break-in procedure was based on how to make engines survive the flat cam syndrome.

the flat cam problem laid waste to everything with a tappet... vw's, v-8's, piston engine airplanes, you name it... everything that you thought that you knew went out the window.

i think that the old saw about driving new motors really hard came about in part because people thought that it would drive the piston to the extremes of it's travel in the bore... not entirely logical, imho, but there are a lot of people who swear by it.

DesertToy86

Ok so.. Compression as follows

#1 cyl 145
#2 cyl 145
#3 cyl 150
#4 cyl 150

Fairly low considering 141 is minimum
But as looked back in paperwork i have 907 miles exacly on the motor.is this enough miles to have these rings seated properly?

On a side note pcv hose from valve to carb had cracks on both ends. Replaced. Did not get a hwy test yet.
Also need to clean aa spot on the head where i see MINOR seep ( on exhaust side) of oil.

The pcv valve also has a fair amount of oil in it. As did the tube i replaced. Is this normal?
From my exp with pcv systems when u pull a line or remove pcv it will usually kill the engine or at least make it run rough. Mine runs just fine removed.

More update soon thank you all for the help

Kiroshu

^-- Perform "wet" compression test to verify compression leakage passed rings.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

The PCV is a controlled vacuum leak. That's why it's important to use PCV valve specified for your engine. If you are removing the valve from the hose, and it still runs the same, there is an issue. Most likely wrong vacuum port, as it should be manifold vacuum. When the valve is removed from the hose, with engine running, it should create a large vacuum leak, and run rough, or the engine may die altogether.

Kiroshu

X2 On incorrect positioning of Crank Case Ventilation system.

Kiroshu

DesertToy86

Pcv hose is in correct port, checked , double checked. From the looks oil is passing thru ( small amount) and getting in the hot intake, burning from there.
When i pull the pcv from the vc u get a good amount of air coming out. Also i get suction (vaccum) on the line going into the manifold. ( tested at idle)
What can cause the engine not to change when pcv is out. Vaccum leak elsewhere? Checked all hose and lines visually and with brake cleaner. Not a leak anywhere.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

The "good amount of air coming through" can either be piston ring issue allowing blowby, or valve adjustment issue. Possibly head gasket, but with your stated compression numbers, its not likely a head gasket. Your compression is pretty consistent across the board.

osv

there could be oil vapor falling out of suspension, but you wouldn't be able to smell it in the cab, which is one of the issues that started this thread.

i'm just pointing out that there are a couple of unanswered questions here, and they probably aren't related issues.

wrt the oil vapor in the intake... vacuum at the pcv is supposed to be pulling fumes in from a sealed environment... if your dipstick is sloppy in the tube, is it allowing air into what should be a sealed environment?

the ghetto fix for that is to shrinkwrap the upper rubber part of the dipstick a time or two, which is good for testing purposes, but a new dipstick is the only real fix.

also, i have a new factory rubber gasket around my new factory pcv, and it's darn near impossible to pull the pcv out of the vc... could there be a loss of vacuum there?