YotaRiley

I just noticed that I have a leak right behind my oil pan on my 85 4runner. Since I am missing a bolt on my pan I think it is coming from the pan but it may be coming from the rear main. I just wanted some input on if I should go ahead and replace the oil pan gasket and then see if its still leaking or...? Also, what all goes into replacing the rear main seal and how hard is it. My 4runner does have a 6 inch lift so I don't think I would have to mess with lifting the engine. Not sure though. Any help would be great.

Thanks

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Subscribing because I am curious. I have an oil leak in the front, but know that the rear main seal is a common repair and wonder how much is involved in doing it.

Good luck!

live4soccer7

It is most likely the oil pan gasket if you are missing a screw. Before you do anything, clean up the area from oil and grime and then put a bolt into the missing spot. If you need to remove another to match up at the hardware store. Go ahead and snug up the bolts all the way around the pan while you are at it.

This should stop the leak, but in the case that it doesn't and you feel that your gasket is compromised then you can either replace the gasket and hope that works or dive into the rear main seal replacement.

Personally, i wouldn't just go in and replace the rear main seal unless you KNOW that's it. It's quite a bit of work especially if you haven't done it before. I know because I just did it.

Here's what's involved:

Removal of shift levers
remove wire connections to tranny
removal of slave clutch cylinder
removal of engine/tranny bolts
support engine
removal/disconnect drive lines/shafts
separate engine from tranny
remove clutch plate
remove clutch disc
remove flywheel
remove rear main seal "housing"
replace it all (need clutch alignment tool) and be sure to pay attention to torque specs on flywheel and clutch plate especially
mate tranny and engine back up - PIA if you haven't done it before

I think you are seeing why I would take the easy route first. Good luck and let us know what you find.

YotaRiley

So I replaced the oil pan gasket and after that I felt like it was just leaking residual oil from me spilling a litting while filling back up. Then it seemed like it was leaking more. What are the torque specs for the oil pan bolts? I know its not much but just curious. I think I will need to replace the rear main because it seems to be leaking just behind the oil pan. What is the average cost for that to be done in a shop?

Thanks.

WILLTHISIFSGOHIGHER

I was just quoted $450 and that sucks!! I soo want to just swap in those $16 rear main seals myself and stop the puddles under the rig.

Streetgrinder

I've done this on American cars, but it sounds like the same deal. I think I need a rear main on my 'new' 1988 4WD truck. Has anyone done the rear main on a 4WD and is it more complicated? I'm guessing it is.
Good time to replace a clutch, too.

cyborg-64

as far as i can tell is front drive line and transfer case shift lever.

i just got my 84 back from tune up after i installed new reman motor. i must have done it wrong cause it's dripping lots of oil outta the rear main. wish i could do things right the first time...

Streetgrinder

Thanks cyborg, that's a bummer about your rear main seal; mine too, lol.

sebastianholmes

if youre doing a rear main, you might wanna look into getting a repair sleeve for it. the seal wears a groove in the crank and thats why it leaks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/72-95...Q5fAccessories

here is one, it comes with the seal and the thin sleeve. just tap it over the crank and itstall the seal like normal, i just did this during my rebuild.

Streetgrinder

Thanks, Sebastianholmes, I'll definitely do that while it's apart.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Oil pan is Toyota Black FIPG torques to 9 ft lbs. In fact you can put bolts in to set it and if done right take the bolts out and it won't leak. Oil pan gaskets are useless IMO.

Rear main seal is drop the tranny and replace. It is labor intensive but not hard. $450 is about right depending on location.

:wabbit2:

cyborg-64

is with the aluminum plate that the seal is tapped into. i put RTV on that thing and bolted it up, then i realized that i had no lock tight, so i stopped. i didn't notice, but my friend took the bolts out of it. later i put the oil pan on and must have broken the RTV seal on the rear main housing plate with the 2 oil pan bolts into it...

i should have removed that rear main plate and re sealed it, but didn't. i put lock tight on the bolts and put them back in. i know, my fault. now i gotta crawl back under this thing and do another big job.

think i need to redo the oil pan while i am doing this?

Streetgrinder

The manual says the oil pan seal doesn't have to be replaced at the same time as the rear main seal. If you just replaced the oil pan seal, you should be all right. IMO
I reckon along with a new clutch, I should replace the oil pan seal as well.

Buck87

[quote=waskillywabbit;51620754]Oil pan is Toyota Black FIPG torques to 9 ft lbs. In fact you can put bolts in to set it and if done right take the bolts out and it won't leak. Oil pan gaskets are useless IMO.

x2
It is hard to tell from underneath if the oil pan is leaking or if the rear seal is the source; so remove the starter and see if the flywheel is oily. If the flywheel is clean and you are using a gasket instead of FIPG or RTV gasket maker then your problem is probably the oil pan.
Did you check the head cover, rear head plate?

Streetgrinder

I just got this truck, Buck87, so I have just been doing what was needed to get an inspection sticker: exhaust, body work. The reason I suspect a rear main is there is seepage under the bellhousing, and the clutch squeals if it lugs. I'm hoping everything stays operational until the spring repair season. I agree the cover gasket could be at fault, except for the clutch thing.

Buck87

Yea, the clutch symptoms make it sound like a rear main seal leak. When you do the seal you probably should do the clutch also. I ran a bad seal on a '63 Fairlane for years when I was in high school back in 1978. The clutch slipped a little but it worked. Pulling the starter is pretty simple. Two bolts and two wires.

Streetgrinder

Agree, Matt. Is there a recommended clutch? I'm only familiar with old American cars. I just put a Centerforce in my 67 Plymouth.

Buck87

Marlin, Luk Gold are good. Marlin has an outstanding reputation. I have heard good things about Luk Gold and found one on line for about $100.00 and installed it with my new motor (that has an oil pan leak) with no problems, but I only have about 450mi on it.

WILLTHISIFSGOHIGHER

I love the Centerforce Dual Friction clutches they shift a little hard at first but whats nice is they stay tight, and man do they grab when you need them to.

Streetgrinder

I have a Centerforce on my 340 Barracuda. I love it, too.