camo31_10.50

would it be cheaper just to replace the stock steering on my '80 with new stock steering stuff...or just go with hy-steer..cuz all my steering is basically shot..so around $300 somethin for hy-steer...or replace all the stock stuff...i do plan on lifting the truck..probably no more than a 4in suspension..and like..a 2in body...maybe a drivetrain lift..so..just go with the stock steering...or replace with hy-steer...problem is..idk when i will lift it...and i dont think u can run hy-steer on the stock lift amount...anybody got any advice or info

4banginRunner

go hysteer, ur gunna have to lift it to clear everything but it'll be worth it in the end

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Hysteer for sure.

Fix it once and be done with it.

If you dont want to run hysteer, just run crossover. W/o hysteer.

camo31_10.50

soo..lift wise..mainly what i do is go muddin...BUT...every now and then i do go on a few rocky trails and what not..so i do need some flex...i was thinking about going with a 4in lift...but dont know if i should go with somethin cheap like Pro-Comp..or HIGH DOLLAR! like marlin crawler or TG or allpro...so...opinions please...$1500 for a 4in to 6in lift....or $280 to $380 for a 4in pro comp lift?????

Scooby098

well unless your gonna be rock crawling I would stick with stock and spend the money on the engine or something worth it

TOYOTA 1

id, definitley go with pro comp its cheaper and flexes good enough for a "few rocky trails". spend the rest on new boggers!

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

I just put a Trail Gear High Steer kit on my '81, it drives a lot better...it was a little more than just the $300 kit though, you will need an IFS steering box ($75-150 depending on where you find it) and the IFS box mount kit ($40-60) and u bolt flip kit.
To me one of the big advantages of High steer is a more positive feel to the steering plus it places the tie rod above the axle, no more bent tie rods due to hitting things ..
stock steering:

High Steer:


Lift Kit: Sounds like for what you want to do, the Pro Comp kit would work fine

edit: I just saw your post about U-bolt flip kits...these pictures show the before and after so it might give you an idea of the advantage of them too...

AxleIke

x2 on needing the IFS box.

The Marlin kit and the others you mentioned are essentially a SAS. You will be cutting off a lot, actually mostly all, of your front suspension, and welding on new hangars and the like for the 1500 price. Just get the pro comps. They will work great, and involve a lot less headache. As was suggested, spend the money on new tires.

camo31_10.50

yea i know i would have to get an IFS steering box...and the mount...hmm...well...since that would be a lil over $400 or more to run hy-steer...is the drop drap link that comes with the pro comp lift bad to use...or what...
thanks for pic with the u-bolt flip...i see now the purpose of it..
and i will spend more on tires and gears than the lift itself...(when 4WP has a sale on pro comp lifts..this lift usually goes down to about $300 or $280) and i was thinking i'll probably just go with the 33x13.50 LTB's...and then 4.88 gears...or would it be better to run 5.29's because of the weight..and my little 20R...i just got all my stuff installed back in my truck (from my carnage a few months ago) truck started right up (not usual for this truck when it sits for a few months) havent gotten to drive it yet..im getting ALL my u-joints replaced first..by professionals...my dad and I usually do it ourselves...but just to make it faster...we'll have them do it...also probably going to get my front wheel bearings replaced...my passenger side wheel can come OUT about 1/8in..maybe 1/4 and side to side a lil less than 1/4...so im guessing its SHOT!..so bearing are getting done by shop..dad and I will do the rear bearings...then fluids for everything...maybe an oil change...then i can get my rust fixed at my school..(gonna have the ag people do it for me...as a welding project)..get my interior herculined..get my seats lowered and mounted...then i can FINALLY go get my exhaust for it......im sure i missed something..but o well

camo31_10.50

would i be able to run a good set of rear toyota leafs up front..then a good set of 63" 4x4 chevies out back...to get the lift to run the 33x13.50's without terrible rubbing...if so...would i be able to just buy a drop drag link and have it installed instead of running hy-steer...im a little short on cash like always (whole family is)...and just trying to think of ways to lower my cost of lift, tires, and gears from $1500 down to well below $1000...lift should be cheap..since its all junkyard stuff...tires can get cheaper..and free shipping on the tires and gears (thanks 4WP)..

808derek

you cant run rears up front w/o hysteer, the rear springs move the axle forward which make it unable to use the stock push pull steering. you could ive seen someone do it but its pointless.
good luck kid

Island_Yota

You also cant run a U-bolt flip plate on that side without hi-steer, trust me ive been through this already.. Hi-steer was well worth my money and time. You also cant just run the rears, its more expensive then you might think, you will need 2 sets of rear spring packs, Sky Boomerang shackles, drop spring hanger and a longer driveshaft plus the hi-steer, IFS box, IFS mount, etc etc.. its not cheap, Id say your best bet is a 4" Procomp kit if your on the cheap, you can use the stock driveshaft, steering, hangers, shackles, shock mounts etc.. its a complete bolt on kit, only basic tools needed.

camo31_10.50

is there a quick fix instead of running hy-steer with the RUP set up..is it ABSOLUTELY necessary or can i run the stock steering for a little bit until i get the money for hy-steer...im kinda doing this in stages...lift first....then tires...then gears...and could somebody please go through everything that needs to be done to the front end to run Rears Up Front...i already know that to run chevies out back that the front spring hanger needs to be moved..what else for the rear too???thanks for the info sorry bout all the questions

808derek

what you could do is just wait. just wait till you have enough money to do all this to your truck. you dont have to rush this, you dont have any deadlines for the truck to be done. and in the mean time do your homework. look what you need to know and just read, READ READ READ. youll learn alot more if you read up rather than ask questions that have been asked again and again.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180

if you read this^ entire link you will know all you need to know and more. and if youve already been to this site keep looking into it for more info.

4banginRunner

I was like this before, trying to go the cheap route and get it done fast. Turns out it cost a heck of alot more trying to go the "cheap" way. Now i'm just collecting parts and saving money to get what i really want for my 79. Save your pennies, it'll be worth it in the end.

camo31_10.50

well....my spare front drive shaft...is SHOT....th one that i bought from redvette...he said it was FINE...he LIES!!!..its junk...almost $300 for a new driveshaft..because none of the junkyards have that old of a pickup...so...now im contemplating on getting a new driveshaft of the same size...or getting a 88 or so front driveshaft...and then just getting the 4in procomp lift...if i go that route...then i will have the truck that i want....but...i'll have to pay my dad back for all the parts...and it would be somewhere around...cost of lift and tires...and thats it...maybe gears..idk...so what should i do???!!!!!