msane99

Any point in installing both together? or can it be done? I have the trail gear knuckle ball seals, and a new set of felt seals. has anyone installed both together?


Any pros or cons to mention?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

You're supposed to install both

msane99

The description on lowrange reads:




The Trail Safe Knuckle Ball Wiper Seal is a double sided seal that keeps grease in and dirt out, all while eliminating the use of the OEM felt and rubber. Since it is made from seal-grade polyurethane, not UHMW, the seal is pliable enough to stretch over the knuckle ball during installation. This eliminates the need to cut the seal for installation which allows water to enter the knuckle ball and for grease to escape. Trail Safe Knuckle Ball Wiper Seals are sold in pairs with the legendary Rock Rings.


but if you used both then I'm down, just couldn't find any information.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Maybe you should have mentioned that you were using the Trail-Safe wiper seals. If that is the case, then no, you don't need the felts. On a factory application, you would have rubber and felt wiper seals

msane99

I did mention this.


quote:


Any point in installing both together? or can it be done? I have the trail gear knuckle ball seals, and a new set of felt seals. has anyone installed both together?


wow...

msane99

Thank you

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I'm a moron! That's what a newborn keeping you up all night will do to you... I have absolutely no clue how I managed to miss that!

BTW with the beefier rock rings, I would imagine that getting the felts on too would be damn near impossible. I imagine TG provides longer bolts but I know that new stock felts and rubber can be a pain to get on due to the short hardware and felt thickness.

msane99

Cool, I understand. I have 4(2boys,2girls): ages 15 down to 3. never a dull moment or a minutes rest.


I got the allen head hardware, and it seems really short. Just didn't know, everything I've read seemed like they were trying to say you could keep it or leave it.


I'm out of money for the truck at the moment, but have this full knuckle rebuild kit I put together a year ago, and am thinking its time to get into it. Just need moly grease for birfs.


I bought some spare doors couple weeks ago, they have vent windows and hinges, I'm excited to get the vent windows in. My older doors are nicer, so think I'm gonna gut the new ones, make some removable door hinges, and file those doors away for a rainy day. I paid too much for them but my 7 year old loves those vent windows in the 4runner, and rabbit. Wifey was a little upset, and I was like "but honey, Gracey wanted them" She didn't buy it, but its true I swear....


So far extra passenger fender, doors, and bench seat. I would have had an extra hood, but scrapped the old one when weld from sub-frame totally un attached itself from hood skin. doh... Hood would float as you drove down the road.


Michael

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

If you do end up making removable doors, let me know - I have a really good and cheap source for bronze hinge pin bushings. Obviously when you remove the original hinge pins they get destroyed and it's pretty much impossible to find a clevis pin that fits the original bushings properly. So I drilled my hinges out slightly so I could fit the new bushings that I found into the hinges with a new stainless clevis pin. Worked great and my doors are nice and firm on the hinges!

mudmaster

How bout letting us all know?

Bingle

Yeah Dave, quit holding out on us.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

I got mine from www.nationalbronze.com

Flanged oil impregnated bronze bushing (Item #102028 / FF-411-1
-ID: 5/16"
-OD: 7/16"
-OAL: 3/8"
-FLOD: 1/2"
-FLTH: 1/16"

Here's the direct link to the bushing I used:
http://www.bronzebushings.com/sae-84...1-16-flth.html

I used a 5/16" stainless clevis pin and drilled out my hinges to 7/16" - everything needs to fit when you put it back together.