bignuts

i have a 83 22r motorhome (made in california), i love her, and shes treated me real good, so i gots to take care of her. the odemeter is stuck at 98k but the guy i bought it from last year said it only had 10k more...

so here is the problem(S) -- problem #1 --

the idle is very rough when engine is cold. i have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep from stalling. it runs fine when i up to speed. a little lurchy when city driveing (stops/traffic) then when it finally warms up - it runs great, bueatiful idle. recently ill start it when its cold and it will idle fine for 10 seconds or so, then it will start to idle very bad. the exaust spits out nasty carbon smoke when its ideling rough.

ive changed the

gas filter
air filter
gas pump
checked for air leaks (no leaks)
changed plugs and wires and distributor
poured seafoam through carb and used in the gas syestem
checked the timing (perfect)
oil change with stabalizer
checked auto choke (gates seem to be doing there job -- and it doesn't affect the very rough idle when i play with the gates while truck is running.

I may plug the aap (although i live in very cold mountains) tommorow, or at least check for gas in the air line. can i replace the aap and diaphram without dissasembeling the carb?

problem #2

while driveing up hill the other day, the truck started to lurch, and i lost power in a kind of sputtering lurchy way, eventually i had to pull over, the engine sounded muffeled, same on the downhill it bucked fairly hard a coule times. i pulled over took the carb cover off and played with the choke gates and accelerator, and it cleared up and ran perfect, i drove the 20 miles back to town. it has done this same thing several times now, and i can solve it everytime by takeing the cover off the carb and toying with the accelerator and gates. ALSO THERE IS A NASTY RATTLE ON UPHILLS that wasent there before it lurched really bad the other day. I'm kind of worried i stressed the engine, and possibly knocked the timeing chain off one of its guides. I am dirtpoor, and live in the vehicle... any suggestions?

thanks

scooper

I'm not a carb man, I HATE working on carbs, and auto trannies for that fact, when it comes to the carbs on these things I have learned there are two ways of doing it.

Rebuild it, or replace it.

It cost me 300 bucks to have one compeltely rebuilt and warrantied, i dont mean your average parts store rebuild kit, i mean COMPLETELY rebuilt.

Or spend another hundred and put a weber 32/36 on there. 300 - 500 bucks.

bignuts

Thanks Scooper;

I need to find a reasonable mechanic for this work. I'll probally end up storeing her until i get er done.

so thats what i thought too, theres something or somethings in the carb that are f'd up, and that a rebuild would be best.

any thoughts on my #2 problem? with the increased rattle and possible loose timeing chain ?

thanks

scooper

Sound like it's a mixture problem with the carb as well, the fuel/air mixture is not right causing the engine to bog down and eventually cut off or have a loped idle. When you open the valves manually you are allowing more air and and adjusting the fuel/air mixture to temporarily solve the problem.

Scooby098

theres just take it to a local shop and have them look at it should only cost you 100 warrentyed

bignuts

Thanks,

I have no warrenty with the truck, I already took it to a place - one of those places where the guy on the phone sounds like a friendly uncle, ready to bend over backwards for you, then I get there and get treated like crap, and got charged 30 for nothing - the guy didnt do didly to it, only cause i took it there when it was hot, so everything was smooth...

It'l be interesting to see how she starts and runs over the comeing week, when temps are expected to not rise above freezing, If she runs, I might take her to Jackson, where things are really fuc**ing cold, but i have dependable mechanic homies there that will treat me ok -- also there will be plenty of snow on the pass to ski -- if i can drive up the damn thing...