2WD Bed vs. 4WD Bed differences?
07-23-2012, 07:41 AM
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2WD Bed vs. 4WD Bed differences?
I've found an original bed off a 1st gen pickup, but its off the truck so I don't know if it's a 2wd or 4WD Bed. The seller doesn't know because it was just sitting in the back yard of the property he just bought.
Supposedly it only has surface rust and No Rot which would be awesome!!! But what obvious measurments, fender lengths, tailgate sizes, etc. can I have the guy measure or look for before I waste a 4-hour round-trip drive and $300???
I really hope its off a 4WD; Thanks for any help...
Supposedly it only has surface rust and No Rot which would be awesome!!! But what obvious measurments, fender lengths, tailgate sizes, etc. can I have the guy measure or look for before I waste a 4-hour round-trip drive and $300???
I really hope its off a 4WD; Thanks for any help...
Last edited by mgb2; 07-23-2012 at 07:43 AM.
07-23-2012, 08:50 AM
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Dropzone asked me to take a look and offer what I can here based on my knowledge of the 2WD VS 4WD 1st gen beds.
The beds on a 2WD are functionally the same as a 4WD with the exception of the area around the wheel wells where the 4WD fender flares bolt on and a slight cosmetic difference in the wheel well it's self.
The cosmetic difference amounts to one extra vertical structural indent in inward side of the wheel well on the 4WD version.
The 4WD bed lower bed panels were the same with the exception of the profile which is cut to allow for the larger span of the bolt on fender flares. There was also a 1/4 wide factory structural indent that ran from top to bottom on the panels, both sides front and back on the 4WD version. The upper bed fender well profile is the same on the 2WD and 4WD trucks. The 2WD beds can be modified by cutting the lower bed panels to match the 4WD version and accomodate the fender flares.
The bed tailgates are this:
1979-1980 all tailgates both 2WD and 4Wd were double latch.
1981 non SR5 tailgates were double latch
1981 SR5 tailgates were single latch
1982 same as 1981
1983 all tailgates were single latch with the exception of the base model 2WD trucks that had retro italic lettering like the 74-78 tailgates and were double latch.
When looking for a bed, if you can find one at all, condition is everything. One person's idea of a little surface rust will not be the same as the next person's idea. 1st gen beds will rust in the horizontal bed seam where the upper and lower panels meet, under the tail lights and back edge, behind the fender wells, and in all other flat area bed seams. They were body caulk sealed on the top, but nothing underneath. With only spot welds holding the panels together the beds can and would have seen water coming up from below, sitting in all the top sealed seams and causing rust even in the best of conditions. If the bed was on a truck in an area that salted the roads it almost always is going to be ruined beyond repair. Even in areas like Oregon where salt is not used, but we get a lot of rain, beds are almost always needing large amounts of repair or are in many cases beyond repair.
The top bed rails and top tailgate rail also have a tendency to rust and there is a water catch at the seam on the outside of the bed. They too rust inside the spot welded seams.
Rippling in the bed side can be minor if caused by regular use, but could also have been caused from a front or rear end collision which will fold and compress the bed sides, even if in a minor way and is often very difficult to repair properly.
I would make sure you are getting the correct tailgate with the bed as trying to find a usable tailgate is getting very difficult. I would ask for pictures from all sides, inside and underneath. Make a point to ask for pictures of the underneath rear below the tailgate and tail lights.
300 sounds like a fair price for a good bed if:
You are east of the Rockies
The bed only has surface rust
The bed has no major damage
He will send you pictures as you ask
Remember that an honest seller will be prepared and glad to provide you with the pictures and documentaion to assure you that the bed is in the condition you want. If a seller is vague, won't provide pictures, they are likely not being honest with you and you should pass on the deal entirely. Don't waste your time, gas and money to look at a piece of junk.
200.00 is a resonable price for a bed needing basic minor body work. If it needs extra work then 100.00. If it needs a lot of work then 50-60.00
Remember that scrap price for a bed is less than 20.00
If pictures and info are properly provided and you see that the bed is not in the condition stated, but very repairable, don't be afraid to offer a price based on the amount of extra work you will have to put into the bed to get it where you need it to be for your project.
The beds on a 2WD are functionally the same as a 4WD with the exception of the area around the wheel wells where the 4WD fender flares bolt on and a slight cosmetic difference in the wheel well it's self.
The cosmetic difference amounts to one extra vertical structural indent in inward side of the wheel well on the 4WD version.
The 4WD bed lower bed panels were the same with the exception of the profile which is cut to allow for the larger span of the bolt on fender flares. There was also a 1/4 wide factory structural indent that ran from top to bottom on the panels, both sides front and back on the 4WD version. The upper bed fender well profile is the same on the 2WD and 4WD trucks. The 2WD beds can be modified by cutting the lower bed panels to match the 4WD version and accomodate the fender flares.
The bed tailgates are this:
1979-1980 all tailgates both 2WD and 4Wd were double latch.
1981 non SR5 tailgates were double latch
1981 SR5 tailgates were single latch
1982 same as 1981
1983 all tailgates were single latch with the exception of the base model 2WD trucks that had retro italic lettering like the 74-78 tailgates and were double latch.
When looking for a bed, if you can find one at all, condition is everything. One person's idea of a little surface rust will not be the same as the next person's idea. 1st gen beds will rust in the horizontal bed seam where the upper and lower panels meet, under the tail lights and back edge, behind the fender wells, and in all other flat area bed seams. They were body caulk sealed on the top, but nothing underneath. With only spot welds holding the panels together the beds can and would have seen water coming up from below, sitting in all the top sealed seams and causing rust even in the best of conditions. If the bed was on a truck in an area that salted the roads it almost always is going to be ruined beyond repair. Even in areas like Oregon where salt is not used, but we get a lot of rain, beds are almost always needing large amounts of repair or are in many cases beyond repair.
The top bed rails and top tailgate rail also have a tendency to rust and there is a water catch at the seam on the outside of the bed. They too rust inside the spot welded seams.
Rippling in the bed side can be minor if caused by regular use, but could also have been caused from a front or rear end collision which will fold and compress the bed sides, even if in a minor way and is often very difficult to repair properly.
I would make sure you are getting the correct tailgate with the bed as trying to find a usable tailgate is getting very difficult. I would ask for pictures from all sides, inside and underneath. Make a point to ask for pictures of the underneath rear below the tailgate and tail lights.
300 sounds like a fair price for a good bed if:
You are east of the Rockies
The bed only has surface rust
The bed has no major damage
He will send you pictures as you ask
Remember that an honest seller will be prepared and glad to provide you with the pictures and documentaion to assure you that the bed is in the condition you want. If a seller is vague, won't provide pictures, they are likely not being honest with you and you should pass on the deal entirely. Don't waste your time, gas and money to look at a piece of junk.
200.00 is a resonable price for a bed needing basic minor body work. If it needs extra work then 100.00. If it needs a lot of work then 50-60.00
Remember that scrap price for a bed is less than 20.00
If pictures and info are properly provided and you see that the bed is not in the condition stated, but very repairable, don't be afraid to offer a price based on the amount of extra work you will have to put into the bed to get it where you need it to be for your project.
Last edited by trekkerpaul; 07-23-2012 at 08:53 AM.
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07-23-2012, 12:26 PM
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Yes it can be done. The bed on my '81 4wd was in pretty rough shape, but I scored a really nice '79 2wd bed for $150 on Craigslist. Like Paul said, it takes some trimming to open up the wheelwells, but it's not that hard (did mine with an air shear).
I took a thick piece of cardboard and made a template from my 4wd bed and transferred it to the 2wd bed to do my trimming. Then I drilled my fender flares holes and it was done. Also you will have to transfer the gap guard brackets and the mud flap brackets from the 4wd bed to the 2wd bed (if you decide to re-install either of those).
My '81 tailgate was in better shape than the '79, so it was a direct swap.
Here's a couple pics after I put it back on the truck (minus the fender flares)...I had it sandblasted and primered too. All the body lines match up and to the untrained eye, no one will be able to tell the difference.
I took a thick piece of cardboard and made a template from my 4wd bed and transferred it to the 2wd bed to do my trimming. Then I drilled my fender flares holes and it was done. Also you will have to transfer the gap guard brackets and the mud flap brackets from the 4wd bed to the 2wd bed (if you decide to re-install either of those).
My '81 tailgate was in better shape than the '79, so it was a direct swap.
Here's a couple pics after I put it back on the truck (minus the fender flares)...I had it sandblasted and primered too. All the body lines match up and to the untrained eye, no one will be able to tell the difference.
07-24-2012, 01:49 PM
#14
Registered User
Trekker Paul please note that there were US manufactured beds and beds manufactured in Japan from 1981-1983. The differences involve the rear clearance light openings / mounting and whether there were one piece sides (Japan Only) or sides with separate lower panels (Japan and US) as you stated. There are different part numbers for the rear clearance lights based on a US or Japan bed. There are also some dimension differences between the US and Japan beds.
07-26-2012, 11:06 AM
#16
Registered User
No, in about mid 1981, if the trucks were shipped into the US without the beds they were charged less tarrifs (Cab & Chassis classified) and that is how US made beds came about. The beds were installed on the trucks at the port of entry. It is unclear the exact number of trucks in 1981 that had US made beds installed or the number of US short and long beds produced. Almost all US made beds had the double latch system and according to my Toyota dealer parts guy Japanese beds use a different part number for the bed latches. My 1981 truck was purchased new-All options-Black package and it had a Japanese bed (production date was April). A close friend purchased a 1981 SR5 in September (production date June) and it had a US made bed. I have a 1983 with a Japanese bed, one piece sides (no Panels) and single latch tailgate.
07-26-2012, 05:23 PM
#20
Registered User
I would contact SLACKER. He really knows a lot about the Toyota truck bodies and how to work on them plus he has duplicated many body parts in high quality fiberglass.
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