callmej75

I used to have an alpine setup I put in my g/f's car a while back and was wondering about the power restrictions I have for the 4runner. I already have an Alpine HU and am in the process of getting all alpine factory speakers put in too. Heres my question...with the stock alternator and battery setup, could I manage 2 Alpine TypeX 12's running parallel to break it down to a 2ohm load with an Alpine MRD-M1005 (700x1@2 OHMS)? Would I need a cap or a bigger alternator? Don't want the blinking lights syndrome like I was having in the mustang everytime the bass would hit hard.

ldivinag

well, you know that old saying, "if you cant afford, you dont wanna know the price?"

same thing with you. if you know you are overtaxing the electrical system of the vehicle, you are going to need fix it.

right now, a cap is a bandaid.

what is really needed is a higher output alternator. but not everyone can afford it or have the time to hassle with it (yours truly included).

so i learned to live with it. and as i get older, i no longer to need to show off the audio system to every tom, dick and local car thief around me...

try wiring the subs in series to get a 4 ohm load. after all, that's only around 350 watts... :evil smiley:

callmej75

Not showing off...i'm almost 30 and if I want to crank up my system then I have the sound there that I'm craving! I love music...and I love it loud. I just posted a simple question and all I needed was a simple answer. So I will get a higher amp alternator and an optima battery. thanks for the input!

94x4

I'd suggest that you do the "Big 4" (I think it's called) that I've seen posted on here (use the "Search" feature) that's about upgrading your main ground leads to some heavy gauge wire to help with charge recovery time & I'd do a "capacitor" as well, that way it's what's powering the amp, not your battery.

callmej75

Thanks man!

ldivinag

a cap DOES NOT power the amp. the battery does.

the cap acts like a buffer.

callmej75

the cap serves as a stored up energy source rather than drawing all the power from the battery.

ldivinag

technically, if the engine is running, all power is being provided by the alternator.

only when the load overcomes the power output of the alternator, does the battery start to kick in. but prior to that, the batt is just another load on the alternator.

now, when the alt plus the batt is too low for the current load, does the cap finally kick in.

NisAznMonk

That stored energy lasts less than a second using one of the conventional 1 farad caps.

To answer your questions simply, buy a junk alternator and get it rebuilt for higher output. It'll save you the headache later on. A conventional 1 farad cap runs between $50-$100. They don't do squat except put additional strain to your already taxed electrical system. A yellow top battery runs about $125-$175. While they do have a higher capacity for storage, they'll only tax your electrical system even more. Add another $75 and you have a high output alternator that produces its own power.

If you don't have the time to find a junk alternator, check out Mr. Alternator. They sell direct bolt ons for most Toyota applications. There are others out there, but that site would probably be the easiest route to go with.

callmej75

thanks

94x4

"callmej75", well, now you've got several options to chose from, depending on your finances &/or modding demeanor, it's always good to have choices.
Guys, I will have to stick by my guns on the "capacitor" issue because, if it does'nt work, then why have my lights stopped dimming & my starter stopped dragging on start up (turns right over everytime just like before the system install) ??
Also, I do not understand the bit about the cap's charge lasting only a sec or the battery having to step in for it when it runs down (if I'm understanding your statement right) because I "charged" it prior to installation like the instructions said to do (did'nt you guys?) & then it's suppose to maintain that charge indefinitely via "trickle" charging (like with a battery charger) from the car's battery which does place some demand on it I guess, but very very minimal at best & only when it's (the capacitor's) charge settles at or maintains a wattage lower than it's pre-installation charge...again, I must point to the remedied electrical gremlins mentioned earlier, or am I just completely off on this?

callmej75

Thats a good point...but I think an alternator would be a big plus and maybe add a cap on top of it. I'm just trying to compile things as I go so that way when I do get my stuff then I can put it all in and not have to say..."NOW WHAT THE HELL IS CAUSING THIS!" We've all been there...anticipating the day and when it comes you are not satisfied with the outcome because something done came up and now ya have to troubleshoot that. Frankly...I'm tired of going that route. But I'm open to anything...I'm not really new to installs but I do need some schooling on keeping up with the charging.

94x4

Venerable words of wisdom there, callmej75.
And I still cannot say that the grounding wire upgrade & capacitor(s) are merely "bandaids", but rather steps in the right direction, perhaps setting the groundwork for an altenator upgrade that will come down the road when the finances present themselves (as is the case for me).
They will serve to get you by until then & when "then" get's here, you'll be more than able to push some serious wattage/amperage around your vehicle & then some with a system capable of handling it

NisAznMonk

The caps discharge will only last about a second because they were designed to pump out the extra power when the bass note hits its peak. I listen to alot of rap, so the bass can sometimes last a little longer than that 1 second spurt. In my situation a 1 farad cap is worthless.

Now if you were into rock, then I wouldn't see why a cap would be a bad thing, other than the price for most caps these days. A 1 farad cap runs in the neighbrohood of about $50 to $150 (at least thats what I see here in Houston).

I would rather pick up a small batcap, which is equivalant to about 50 1-farad caps. They cost about $150 on average. They work the same way as a regular cap would, but they hold a heck of alot more power. I used one once to start up my beat up 1990 Honda civic cuz the battery crapped out on me. You can check out www.batcap.net for more information on it.

Also the type of amplifier you have running your subs can make a difference. I'm not well verse on what the different classes mean, other than a Class D amp does not draw as much power from the electrical system as a class A/B amp. I'm sure someone on this board can jump in and fill in the blanks

Check out www.termpro.com and look in thier forums. There is a section strictly to the charging system of a car. You can ask questions there and you'll get alot of informations from people who are pros in that industry. Just a word of advice...a few of those guys actually make alternators and may try to steer you towards buying one. While buying an alternator is a great first choice, make sure its the right one for you.

callmej75

Thanks for the sites monk...I've got a good collection of sites now but alot more can't hurt! Knowledge...its what makes these forums the best! Thanks guys!

89macrunner

with a 1 farad cap youll be fine...700 watts is not that much..btw why are you getting alpine x series?...save your money and just get type rs or type s's if your only going to be running 350watts rms


im going to be running 2 type rs...each taking 850watts @2 ohms rms...

callmej75

I had type R's before and they were good if you don't see no use to upgrade but if I decide to add on another amp for more watts then I got the speakers there to handle it. if not the type x's will be plenty and the sound will be there. I'm shooting for clarity...and I know the capability of the type R.

89macrunner

well heres the deal...the type x's probably handle around 1000 watts RMS (im not exactly sure) but its not good to underpower a sub because amp disotortion and clipping will kill your new expensive woofers. The type R's now handle 500watts RMS 1500 MAX which is great for their price. They dont sound the best but you can give them a lot of power for a good and loud system...If you want something that sounds good look into some infinity kappa perfects..I would have those but i work at best buy so yea.....you are SEVERLY under powering your subs...i would sell those and get infinity kappa perfects...they run at 350watts RMS which is perfect for your amp.

The Type X's have 79 in the sensitivity area....the infintys have 93 i think.

callmej75

Well I know the alpine V12 amps are good for their power. I'm sticking with all alpine because of the sound clarity and volume. I have been through JL, MTX and type R's. I liked the sound of type R's but if it is underpowered for the type X's then I WILL go with a bigger V12. I had an alpine V12 a while back and it was a MRV1501 and that amp used juice! I started out with the MRV757 and it was blowing MTX's but i screwed up and wired them in parallel when they were a single voice coil and blew them everytime. I don't like mixing different brands...been there and I went thru alot of equipment. I just needed help on the charging thing...not choice of brands but thanks for the input.

NisAznMonk

if you know anyone interested in a pair of Alpine Type R's let me know. I have a pair for sale in the classified section.

Alpine Type R's in the classified