94x4

Just got a chance to check out "NisAnzMonk's" referral to the "BatCap" (thanks for the tip) & it would definitely be the route to go, given that they do have a longer sustained output (as would be required for the "rap" style of music wherein a "bassline" can last the entire duration of the song), although you would definitely need a HO alternator to recharge something like those with that much of a capacitance charge as it would definitely put a drain on your stock battery (amazing how one would necessitate the need for the other, huh?).

NisAznMonk

Actually from experience, a stock 60-80amp alternator would do just fine in charging a batcap. They charge/discharge up just as fast as a regular 1-farad cap, but with the extra storage. The internal resistance is MUCH lower than a conventional battery. They work pretty well, unless you listen to bass cds all day long.

Agian a cap, regardless if its a 1-farad or 50-farad, is still a band-aid to a major electrical problem (granted the 50-farad cap is a HUGE band-aid ). Hook up your tunes and figure out what you need from there.

Oh yeah, I just finished re-reading the thread. Unless I am wrong, the primary power source for all of your accessories comes from your battery (and cap if you have it). Since the resistance is much lower in a cap, the powersource would come from the cap first...and the car's battery would be the buffer since the internal resistance is much higher. Take the path of least resistance, right? The alternator is just there to top off the charge to the battery (and cap).

Since I've had my truck, I've added another amp to the mix. I currently run 5000 watts for the bass alone, using an external regulator to keep things at 14.4v. A 1-farad cap would be like putting a bandaid on a freshly amputated limb

NisAznMonk

Oh yeah, forgot to add this. Make sure you use the biggest wiring you can afford. The bigger the wire, the less resistance you have. The less resistance you have, the faster your eletrical system can charge or discharge. The "Big 3", or "Big 4" (depending on where you read it) would be key in this area of car audio.

yikes, i keep forgetting stuff. Strand count of a wire does make a difference. The higher the strand count, the more flexible it is. Supposedly they carry a higher current rating too, but I've never been able to test that. You won't always know what the strand count is, but if its available then use it.

Example: When I was 16 I worked at Furrows building materials here in Houston. Figured that wire was wire so I used the wire we sold at work. It was the kind that you wire up a house with (you know, the fuse boxes and what not). Strand count? 1 . It worked, but you had to bend it to make it fit the curves of a car. It felt like I was using a bare metal coat hanger to wire up my ride

94x4

Example: When I was 16 I worked at Furrows building materials here in Houston. Figured that wire was wire so I used the wire we sold at work. It was the kind that you wire up a house with (you know, the fuse boxes and what not). Strand count? 1 . It worked, but you had to bend it to make it fit the curves of a car. It felt like I was using a bare metal coat hanger to wire up my ride [/QUOTE]

Yeah, but I'll bet you had AWESOME current flow & conductivity!