Welding on truck
#1
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Welding on truck
I'm going to be installing my custom bumper probably this weekend and it will require some welding of brackets to the frame for me. i know how to weld but i've never done it on a vehicle. if these brackets will be going close to the end of the frame rails, whats a good ground to use? does it even matter? i'd hate to accidentally put too much current through my truck and screw something up. however, the current should be taking the least resistive path (from positive welder to ground) though right? thanks
#2
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you are correct sir. Altho I havent done much welding on vehicles, just exhaust the best ground would be on the frame as close as possible to the work to be welded. This results in less that its gonna have to travel which sometimes can effect ur welding.
#3
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With respect to grounding, it is best to put the ground as close as possible to the area you are welding, you'll have a much easier time of welding.
Always disconnect the battery when welding on a vehicle, and you'll never worry about screwing up anything.
Always disconnect the battery when welding on a vehicle, and you'll never worry about screwing up anything.
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Put the ground close to where your welding. Also a good idea that the ground clam actually makes contact to the metal so if it it dirty or painted clean it or find another place to put the ground. Ive welded on my truck before without disconecting the battery. Ive actually done it a few times I just forget to disconect it. Nothing bad has happened yet. To be safe id disconect it.
#7
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I always disconnect the battery and unplug the ECU.
Fired an ECU on a Heep once welding on sliders...... Dunno if its just a "JEEP THING" and thats why I didnt understand. But those Toyota ECU are darn expensive So I dont risk it.
Fired an ECU on a Heep once welding on sliders...... Dunno if its just a "JEEP THING" and thats why I didnt understand. But those Toyota ECU are darn expensive So I dont risk it.
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i've welded on my truck quite a bit lately and have never disconnected the battery, i use the body mount stud closest to where i'm welding.
maybe i'm just luck so far
maybe i'm just luck so far
#9
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When you fried the Heep ECU were you welding with a AC or DC welder? Just wondering, thanks.
#11
I was taught to disconnect the negative(ground) cable from the battery, and weld away AC or DC. Had not heard the bearing thing, maybe because someone would eventually realise the complete impracticality of removing all the bearings first(engine too?).
You may want to remove from the general vacinity any rubber bushings(rear spring shackle?),and any tail light wires. You'll be suprised how well that heat will seek them out.
As far as where to clamp on, somewhere with no paint works best.
You may want to remove from the general vacinity any rubber bushings(rear spring shackle?),and any tail light wires. You'll be suprised how well that heat will seek them out.
As far as where to clamp on, somewhere with no paint works best.
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-29-2007 at 06:45 PM.
#12
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yeah, some more information would be good on the bearing thing...
I'm not going to do it, since, as mud hippy pointed out, it would be completely impractical.
I'm just interested for my own knowledge. I mean, bearings are metal, at least in cars...
I'm not going to do it, since, as mud hippy pointed out, it would be completely impractical.
I'm just interested for my own knowledge. I mean, bearings are metal, at least in cars...
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I was taught to disconnect the negative(ground) cable from the battery, and weld away AC or DC. Had not heard the bearing thing, maybe because someone would eventually realise the complete impracticality of removing all the bearings first(engine too?).
You may want to remove from the general vacinity any rubber bushings(rear spring shackle?),and any tail light wires. You'll be suprised how well that heat will seek them out.
As far as where to clamp on, somewhere with no paint works best.
You may want to remove from the general vacinity any rubber bushings(rear spring shackle?),and any tail light wires. You'll be suprised how well that heat will seek them out.
As far as where to clamp on, somewhere with no paint works best.
so far so good
if you ever worry about workin on your vehile, just dico the battery.
just keep in mind to get smooth starts on your welds, if your grounded on the frame, get closer to the frame than the work to start your arc.
#16
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you don't need to remove bearings, just don't have any bearings between your ground and the spot you are welding. the electricity eats at the bearings. i grounded through a wheel lug on a Kenworth and was welding on the axle and left little burn marks on the bearings, even though i could not see them, we had to pull them because of it.
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