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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Vancouver Island, B.C.
Posts: 672
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Tubing + Sheet metal.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member
Staff
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Quote:
For sheet metal repair/replacement on mine I used 20 gauge. Do some research and homework on exactly what you want and the terminology so you don't sound like a noob when you call or go to buy the steel and get taken advantage of. Good luck.
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WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Phx, AZ
Posts: 3,436
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I just bought some 1.75 .90 DOM for $4.14 a foot. .120 was the same price. That was for a 10' stick.
Not saying this is a good price or a bad price but just a price... so you can figure around what your project will cost. And don't ask why I bought the .90 wall instead of the .120... I am still new at all this fab stuff and learn something every day. As WabFab says, get .120 for your bed.
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================ 1990 4Runner | V6 3.4 | 5spd | 240 someoddthousand miles | SR5 | SAS | RLS | 35's | ARB | TJM | 217 to 1 | W8000 - four wheels | three sticks | two hands | one trail - visit the sticki chronicles
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Columbia, MO
Posts: 995
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![]() i used 1.5"X.095" wall for mine. 14ga treadplate was the lightest i could find. I wouldnt make it any heavier |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 45
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Im planning on using 1.75"x0.120 wall for my projects. Got the die, so i guess i have no choice
Been paying $57 for 20' of it here in sacramento, its the cheapest I can find it.-Brian
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1984 4WD Frame - 1986 SR5 Cab - 22R Carburated
Solid Axle - 33's - Locked - Lifted |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I just paid 4 dollars a foot for 1.75" .120 DOM. I thought that was a pretty good price. I did not ask about HREW but all the pricing depends on where you live.
I agree that that tube bed you posted is probably 1.75". Remember to get some 1.5" as well to make slugs with.
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Buggy in progress - 22RE on pane, A340, 4.7, 8"s, 4Ds 1989 4Runner 3.slow 5spd and big plans... 2005 Ram 2500 4x4 CTD 6spd QC SWB |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Vancouver Island, B.C.
Posts: 672
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Looks like il be diggin in the scrap yard or picking up a box and bobbing it, My rig is supposed to be budget haha.. Im buying new sheet metal for the floors though, ive seen too many haggard floor fixes over the years.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 575
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44runner, what do you mean by slugs?
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Wherever, Whenever, However...Tread Lightly! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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When you butt weld tube together you should use a slug. Here is what I do which is by no means "the" way.
When I am butt welding 1.75" .120 wall tube I: -bevel the edges -use a 3/4" hole saw in my notcher to put a hole straight through the tube about 1.5-2" back from the edge -use a die grinder to get out any of the burs on the inside of the tube -then I cut an 8" piece of 1.5" .120 wall ("the slug") and mark the middle with a Sharpie -slide in the slug in to one of the 1.75" pieces that I am joining up to the sharpie mark and tack in place using one of the holes I drilled -slide the other tube on to the other end of the slug leaving about an 1/8" of the slug visable between them -tack other tube in place -rosette weld the holes and lay a bead between the two tubes and you are done That was long and very in depth. Hope it helped someone..
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Buggy in progress - 22RE on pane, A340, 4.7, 8"s, 4Ds 1989 4Runner 3.slow 5spd and big plans... 2005 Ram 2500 4x4 CTD 6spd QC SWB |
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