other home made fab stuff for 88 4runner
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haha yeah the welds look bad but that is actually mud from my tellico ride caked on their. my dad is a good welder andhe put them on. the welds are strong. they were tested in tellico 3 or 4 times and they did fine. we've picked the truck up by these sliders, completely off the ground, so i'm confident in them.
yes they are home-made. i love the rack, it is lightweight, it took a short time to make. and it looks awesome. i'm very very happy with it, and it gets me a lot of head turns on the roads and trails.
yes they are home-made. i love the rack, it is lightweight, it took a short time to make. and it looks awesome. i'm very very happy with it, and it gets me a lot of head turns on the roads and trails.
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aweome man, just a pipe bender did it for me. i didn't make it out of tubing so it bent easy. i have a roll cage going under it so if anything happens, its not hard to do another one. and i ran my lights right above my passenger door. i ran tehm through a little duct and wire tied it to the frame of my windshield and ran it up to the rack that way.
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yeah i read over what i wrote and it does sound confusing. i'll head to the shop tomorrow and i'll snap some pics of it then. even though the rack is off i'll take some pictures of where the wires used to and will run when i get it back on there. sorry for the confussion
#9
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Not good. There's all kinds of stuff wrong here:
No gussets on the legs OR no support from the pinchweld/body mounts
The legs going under the pinchweld will result in crunched pinchweld and torque on the frame.
Not having scab plates results in all that force being transmitted to a small area of frame, potentially resulting in a ripped frame.
Seriously - this is a big deal - cut them off and redo it with plates between the legs and the frame to spread the force. Either gusset the legs or install them within 1/2" of the pinchweld with the inner rail directly under the pinchweld.
No gussets on the legs OR no support from the pinchweld/body mounts
The legs going under the pinchweld will result in crunched pinchweld and torque on the frame.
Not having scab plates results in all that force being transmitted to a small area of frame, potentially resulting in a ripped frame.
Seriously - this is a big deal - cut them off and redo it with plates between the legs and the frame to spread the force. Either gusset the legs or install them within 1/2" of the pinchweld with the inner rail directly under the pinchweld.
Last edited by tc; 01-15-2009 at 07:29 PM.
#11
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No problem. That way would be fine for a step bar holding up a couple hundred pounds, but with a slider you're looking at a couple thousand pounds.
I always go by "ain't no such thing as overkill for 'wheeling" ...
I always go by "ain't no such thing as overkill for 'wheeling" ...
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this is true, i cut out the pieces for it today. its too cold to paint the bumper and exo for now so it looks like it will be here at the shop for a while.
and here is the way my lights are wired.
my relays
where the wires to lights run and where the wires to my switches run inside the cab. yes i did drill to get the wires to the lights through there but they are taped and a piece of rubber is inside that hole so they are good.
they run out of the previous hole to right there above my door and then they run right up the side of the windshield and bam, they are up on the rack.
when i have the rack back up, i can take pictures of it because it would be a lot more detailed on where it runs up the outside of the truck if you would like. i know they arent' that good of pictures or the best idea, but hey it works well for me. all i had to do was run an extra wire back into the engine compartment from the rack to ground it because the lights are grounded to the rack which is grounded inside the engine compartment i believe. sorry if this is just as confusing as before.
and here is the way my lights are wired.
my relays
where the wires to lights run and where the wires to my switches run inside the cab. yes i did drill to get the wires to the lights through there but they are taped and a piece of rubber is inside that hole so they are good.
they run out of the previous hole to right there above my door and then they run right up the side of the windshield and bam, they are up on the rack.
when i have the rack back up, i can take pictures of it because it would be a lot more detailed on where it runs up the outside of the truck if you would like. i know they arent' that good of pictures or the best idea, but hey it works well for me. all i had to do was run an extra wire back into the engine compartment from the rack to ground it because the lights are grounded to the rack which is grounded inside the engine compartment i believe. sorry if this is just as confusing as before.
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