bob200587

Sorry to make a new thread, but i didnt wanna hijack any other ones.

Ok, so Ive been unable to decide between ARB and the Toyota Elocker for a while now, The main advantage the e locker has, is that unlike the arb, which requires a constant amount of air to stay locked, the e locker does not require electricity to maintain locked state, and it can be switched manually if necessary.
I looked up some stuff on marlin crawler, and i found that i can get the fully set up diff, and all the parts for $1056 shipped. I am going to contact toyota to see what their price is on the same parts.
Next thing i need to know is how much i am looking at to have the housing modified and the diff put in place and the control unit attatched. I know of a couple places around here that w*ould do it, but i think i might get raped if im not careful...I would try it myself, but it would put my truck out of commission too long, one because i am slow and would get stuck a million times and two because i lack the appropriate tools and skills to do the job. So any ballpark figures on what this installation might cost? I could take the axle housing off the springs and take it wherever to get the work done if that would save some $$$.
The other thing i thought made this a better choice than the ARB, is that the new housing would be the 4 pinion style from a V6, rather than the 2 from my 4cyl. That would be stronger, not to mention the gears and all the parts would be new, not 18 years old.....Also with the ARB, I am sure it would cost more to have the unit put in the old diff, and set everything back up again, then install it, plus buying the compresser, running power to it, running air lines, so on and so forth.

This may be something i could seriously do that would help alot. If yall have suggestions or anything that would help, let me know. Anything helps. Thanks

arjan

I wouldn't buy a diff from Toyota (I didn't), they are available and a fraction of the price at wreckers. Just ask if they have a 4wd limited, and it likely has one. The gear ratio of most of them seems to be 4.30, at least all of them I've seen. 4.56 is around too, but harder to find.

bamachem

you said that the E-Locker is $1056 shipped... PLUS you have to pay for the housing modifications, then you have to either get a wiring harness, Locker ECU and switch, or make one yourself, or do a cable conversion on the locker. I think you're looking at a minimum of $200 to properly modify your housing, then another hundred or two more to get the locker functional either w/ wiring or a cable actuator. In all, you're looking at $1350-$1450. You could then sell your old third for about $100 at most since it's 4CYL, putting you at $1250-$1350 total price.

for an arb, you have to get the locker and the air source, then you have to get the locker installed in your diff. the difference in the 4-pinion and 2-pinion isn't applicable since the ARB replaces the factory differential itself.

ARB Locker: $750 shipped
ARB Comp: $200 shipped
Labor to Install Locker: $150 if you pull and replace the third, $250 if you let the shop do everything.

All you have to do then is to wire up your locker and switches (very easy) and then run the blue line to the locker (also very easy).

Total here is about $1100 to $1200.

It's not much of a savings, but it is somewhat. Also w/ the ARB, if you later decide on a front locker, then you'd already have the compressor.

yotaman

inchwormgear.com has factory e-lockers for $885. If you need a 4.30 e-locker there are plenty of useds ones around. I've had a hard time finding a 4.56.

ARB Con: If air line cut your not going anywhere.

E-locker Con (not really a con): You have to roll forward a few feet for it to engage. Just lock it before hitting the trails and your good to go.

I'd go E-locker.

bamachem

4.56 E-lockers are a ghost at best. I'm not so sure they actually exist...

well, if cutting an ARB line is considered a con, then so is cutting the wiring harness going to the E-Locker actuator or ripping the Cable off the modified actuator. If you cut an air line that's on TOP of the thirdmember casing, then you'll have worse trouble w/ a big E-Locker Actuator sitting in the same place and taking up MUCH more real estate. If you're talking about cutting a line anywhere other than at the rear third, then you didn't run the blue hose properly in the first place and more than likely wouldn't run your wiring or cable correctly either...

bob200587

the 1056 shipped was with the harness and the gasket and some toher hardware. And like i said, the new third member will be 4 pinion, unlike the 2 pinion i have now, which is another pro to goin with the E-locker. I think i like the idea of getting the stuff from a junkyard. And as far as protecting the actuator, Marlin also has a metal protector for that. Do you think i should go for 4.30 gears or try to find a wreck with a manual tranny, so i can have the same 4.10s. I would have 4.10s up front still, would this mess up anything, i never really looked into if you need to change both sets to matching ratios. Thanks for the replies, alot of good info. BTW, I ordered a set of tires today, getting em on tomorrow. 31x10.50 mastercraft courser M/T. I think im gonna be satisfied with em.

byron4

i took mine to a shop and got the work appraised. they said to set the e-locker up with new gears(4.88's) and also re gear the front. plus the housing modifications would cost in the $2000 ball park o ya i got the e-locker off of e-bay for $580 shipped.

bob200587

if im gonna get the e locker it will be set up already....im not even gonna fool around with that. i dont need 4.88s, i really wouldnt need 4.30s, it might be nice tho.....we'll see. I get my new tires tomorrow, and im excited! I need to fix my right rear axle seal and change out my CV boots before i start on this. Maybe i'll go downtown and get an estimate on the work I would want to do. Anybody got a part number for the "ECU" or whatever it is u need to run the locker...i think? I'll see what new info i get tomorrow.....maybe i can get my friend to take some pics of my runner with new tires and ill post them too.

byron4

even if you get the 4.30 ratio youll still have to change the front. the ONLY place i checked, could be very high, but said it would cost 300 to 400 just to set up the front gears(not including price if gears). i know this probably doesnt help but ide just thought ide share the prices i got.

bob200587

i guess i should just get the 3rd member thats set up with 4.10s then. So you cant run gear sets that dont match? Ive always wondered that...i guess it makes sense. Well, i wonder how hard it would be to find a locked rear end with 4.10s in it at a junkyard? anyways, im out for the night. ill check back in the morning.

arjan

You can run sets which are mismatched slightly. 4.10 and 4.30 can probably be ran fine off road, just don't go on pavement because the driveline will bind up badly and your vehicle will start to buck.
On low friction surfaces (gravel etc.) there will be a little wheel slip on a contant basis, but it won't hurt anything. Tire wear might be increased a little bit.

bamachem

from what i understand, elockers came w/ 4.30's if the vehicle has a 3.4L V6. they will come w/ 4.56 if it came w/ the I4. i don't recall EVER seeig confirmation of a 4.10 locking third, but it's possible.

you need to plan on either having your 4.10's swapped into the e-locker diff or just buy a 4.30 front diff to install. if i were you, i'd go to 4.30's and then sell your 4.10's complete. i got $250+ for a complete third w/ low miles and $150 for a complete front w/ 135k miles. you'll spend about $500-$600 on the rear e-locked diff and about $250-$300 on the front. best thing to do is get them from an online salvage yard so you can shop them around somewhat.

you don't want to run 4.30's in the rear and 4.10's in the front. you WILL have driveline problems in the near future if you do. gearing is important and expensive - don't try to cut too many corners or you'll pay dearly in the long run.

bob200587

Marlin Crawler sells the E-Locker with 4.10s, THats the only time ive seen it with them. Thats proabaly where i woudl have to get it....i just cant afford to change my front gears when i do it, so i guess ill have to go with it.

yotaman

Used 4.10 e-lockers are easy to find.

bamachem

where?

yotaman

car-part.com

Jonathan

There are 4.10's around you just got to look harder. I picked up the 4.30 from a junkyard for $350 in perfect condition. Then I just got a front 4.30 diff from someone on the board. Now I just gotta find time to install it all.

shazaam

tell me exactly where you would cut the line for an ARB locker ... it runs along the top of the frame rail, and into the top of the third member housing. If you somehow managed to cut your line, I assure you, your going to have ˟˟˟˟˟ loads more damage to worry about then just a cut line.

Even if you did have an air leak, the locker will still work, it's just your compressor will be running the entire time. Which is why you should get a 100% duty cycle compressor.

Next with an ARB set up, throw in a 2 gallon air tank and a 100% duty cycle compresor, and you now have a kick arse OBA system.

finally, while the E-locker is nice, I dont think it was designed for the abuse your going to put it through crawling rocks. Will it work, of course it will. But the ARB unit was designed exactly for this type of abuse and is bullet proof.

goat getter

Toyota Part Numbers for E-Lockers:

Locker w/4.56 gears - 41110-3D010

Locker w/4.30 gears - 41110-3D080

Locker w/4.10 gears - 41110-3D030

High pinion w/4.10 gears - 41110-60370

..Do some google searches and you'll find all you need to know about retrofitting these into mini truck/4runner axles.

Good Luck!!

paddlenbike

iTrader: (1)

My 2000 V6 5-speed has the 4.10 ratio with the locking diff. Don't ask me how long it took to find that combination though.