rocket

iTrader: (1)

I don't know wether this is true or not but I've read and heard that a solid front Toyota axel/housing can be built as strong as or even better than a Dana 44.

What all do i need to build a super strong Toy axel using the factory housing? I'll be spending a long time building one and want to do it right the first time around. This is my only start and i'm still learning about all the parts involved...
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm#front

Take your time.

AxleIke

Get a Diamond Axle housing, stuff it with 4340, and an 8 inch hp with an electric locker. You should be able to do it, and then never mess with it again. I'm convinced diamond is the only way to go truly bombproof with toy stuff.

Here is a writeup that includes them, so you can see what i'm talking about.

You can build a stock housing, but you'll be hard pressed to build it as tough as the diamond.

Flygtenstein

I have:
-Diamond housing
-30 spline Longfields/inners
-ARP hub studs
-ARP knuckle studs
-High pinion ARB locked third
-Marlin billet 4 hole arms

The only current ways to make that stronger are:
-Cryo'd 4.10 high pinion gears
-6 stud knuckles drilled for ARP 44 studs
-Drive flanges
-newer 30 spline Longfields

For most people, most tire sizes and most engines, 30 splines with ARP studs in a stock housing will survive forever.

A coworker runs 44's on a Diamond front with ARP studs, 30 splines and a stock 4.10 HP diff. He only has a 22RE, but it will be a 3.4 soon enough.

No worries, he gets it. This is not a street truck.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

side note...

Maybe a stupid question...but are the ARP knuckle and hub studs a press out the OEM press in the ARP kinda thing or is it more involved than that? I'm unfamiliar with the product.

Flygtenstein

Screw in, screw out. Really simple replacement.

Not like adding the extra dowels that takes machine work.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Thanks Cheese. That will be one of my next "upgrades" and one that I'll have ready next time I plan to take the front axle apart.

I bet those are expensive. But having an axle that you can wheel and forget about is priceless.

rockota

Flyg nailed it.

Other things to possibly consider are:
Replacing inner knuckle bolts with studs from AP - for servicing only.
Drilled Manual hub and lockout to support 6 dowels - if you need lockouts.

You're looking at a $4500+ axle, last I checked.

rockota

Not cheap - Consider ARP studs from Brian @ FRORF. No need to drill/tap, still stronger and won't stretch like stock.