ravencr

ravencr

And some more!

ravencr

That's all I got tonight!

Chris

Lone4runner

thanks alot chris I appreciate all the pics you have posted. You definitely spent alot of time on this.

ravencr

I hope it helps, and if you have any more specific questions, I'd be more than happy to answer them. Common sense wise, this is a very easy mod. But, time wise, it's definitely more time consuming than a lot of the bolt on mods we can do to our vehicles. It's also not very costly, which is another plus.

At any rate, I'd love to be able to put together a kit to do it, but I would need to borrow someone's 4runner for a long time to put one together. My truck has been modified to the point that I couldn't copy it effectively at all. The crossmembers are pretty simple to make, it's just the gas tank relocation that's a challenge, really.

Chris

P.S. I'm curious to see how SeaFlea's mustang tank comes out, because I think that's a better option so far, at least on the surface.

ravencr

Well, I got my lift lips yesterday, so hopefully I'll get them installed next week to hide those huge gaps caused by a 3" body lift.

Chris

Hyperlite

Chris, nice work looks good. I was reading on Frontrange's site and they said that "The Crossmember fits all 4 cylinder gear driven cases. It does not fit V6 or Automatic transfer cases" is that true about the 3rd gens?

ravencr

Yeah, if you buy the wrong one. They make both, but the problem is that unless you have a minimum of a 1" body lift, even the one they sell for a 4runner with auto tranny it won't fit without shaving down the passenger side upper edge substantially plus cutting into the body pan. It was too much work for what I wanted, but if you have a 2" body lift I'd be all over it. It's a beautiful piece of metal and I've still got mine if you'd like it. I'd sell it for $200 shipped if you'd like. I think it goes for $239 plus shipping and it's brand new with all the hardware. Let me know!

Chris

Hyperlite

Chris I have a v6 auto and 2" bl and plan on running that setup. Do you have all the hardware in this photo, if you do I'll send you cash on thursday night.

ravencr

That's not the setup you want. I'm just talking about the crossmember for $200 shipped. You want the skid plate that goes from the left to right frame rail, not the one pictured, trust me. It would be separate. I've got everything you need to install the crossmember and for your setup it will fit perfectly.

Chris

Here's the pic of the one I have and it's much more durable and strong:

ravencr

Here's the latest specs on mine since the drivetrain lift and new suspension setup:

1) Width outside of tread to outside of tread: 68"

2) Wheels: Stock 1997 4runner

3) Suspension setup:
- Front - Tundra Coils, top out spacer, OME shocks
- Rear - LC 8 wrap coils, OME shocks, panhard drop, no rubber isolater cone

4) Height from ground to transfer case skid plate: 19 1/8"

5) Lowest point on rear bumper (Hitch tube): 27 3/4"

6) Bottom of sliders: 24 1/2"

7) Bottom of rear frame rails: 25"

Hyperlite

i am looking for the other....... thanks though

ravencr

I could care less which one you get, but I know you're making the wrong decision. Just ask Steve Schaeffer if he likes a skid plate attached to his transfer case bolts. One good hit, the bolts will crack the transfer case and your leaking oil. It wasn't a good thing for him at Buena Vista Last year, that's for sure.

It's retarded to attach a skid plate to the transfer case directly. What good does that do? Nothing! All force is transfered right to the case. Dumb, in my opinion, but you're more than welcome to get that one instead!

Chris

safado4

Does this mod (3"BL and 3" drivetrain lift) work if you've already got a 3" suspension lift? This would probably kill pinion angles, is there anything I could do to help those out? What would I have to do to make sure everything works ok if I were to go for this mod?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You can combine lifts, no problem. Depending on the type of driveshaft you have, there may or may not be driveshaft/pinion angle issues. A single-cardan (all u-joints) shaft will be fine if you raise the engine and t-case the same amount. Everything stays parallel and there should be no problems:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...FixingProblems

If you have a double-cardan (CV type rear shaft), then it would be required to tip the pinion up for any type of lift, suspension or drivetrain, about 1 degree per inch of lift. Adjustable control arms would do that on a coil sprung rear end, shims work on a leaf sprung rear end.

ravencr

If you have a 3rd gen you'll be fine. I've got about 4" in the 3" in the front and this mod with no problems with vibration. It's the best mod I've done, for sure. You'll be amazed at how well it helps you on the trails.

Chris

Albuquerque Jim

Chris, did you need to go up 3" with the drive train to get it flat?

ravencr

Yep, that's what it takes to make it happen if you plan to have a 1/4" skid plate underneath it and still have some room between the transfer case and have a flat undercarriage. I guess you go with 2.5", but I feel better with a 3/8" gap in between the transfer case and the top of the FROR skid plate, because it flexes when under throttle and things are bouncing!

Chris

Albuquerque Jim

I am looking into clocking my dual case (when I get it) so I don't have to go up so high on the BL & Drivetrain. I like your results.

ravencr

I can understand that! I didn't want to go into clocking my single transfer case with all the fabbing necessary to make the shifting linkages to work. I'm assuming you can clock the second transfer case resulting in flat section under it, but what about the original transfer case. I've heard it's possible, but I'm not clear on how it all works. After doing the lift, I don't mind it. I actually like it, but for a lot of folks it might be too high. The main thing is not snagging the undercarriage on big rocks. That is so annoying and fixed mostly with this type of mod, whether it be my way or clocking it. I'd love to find out more about your method too.

Chris