ravencr

BruceTS, when are you going to spill the beans on the transfer case raise you keep talking about?

Transalper, how'd it fair at Moab? Any changes you'd recommend to folks?

Chris

transalper

It worked fine, but it didn't receive any major, "drop the whole weight of the truck on the t-case armor" blows. I do plan to eventually bend up the sides to give it some additional structural support. Hopefully I will get to that before I trash it.

ravencr

Cool man! I'm going to try to find some drops at my local yard to save me from having to use my precious 4x8' sheet that I'm using for other stuff right now. We'll see though! If BruceTS ever gets back to me on the drivetrain lift, I'll have a decision on what way I'm going to go.

Chris

shazaam

Does this have to be 3/16th .. I'm ony finding slightly thinner sheets or 1/4" sheets?

ravencr

I think 3/16" is the minimum for not having any additional bracing, and in my opinion, the 3/16" even needs a tad bit of bracing, but that's personal opinion.

Chris

shazaam

so I should get 1/4"?

ravencr

I'd go 3/16" and get some angle iron or tubing to reinforce it in the critical areas under the transfer case, but I also tend to overbuild things.

Chris

transalper

1/4" would be extremely heavy, but would not likely bend.

3/16" without bracing would probably be fine for most folks, but if you plan to drop the wt of the truck onto the armor with some regularity, then bracing is definitely needed. I will eventually brace mine, but it'll probably only happen just before heading to an extreme trail out west . . .

ravencr

I agree totally!

Chris

MxPx_Reaver

would this fit a 3rd gen tacoma?

shazaam

picked up the metal today

BruceTS

Well just to update everyone, my skid plate worked just as expected and prevented any damage to my undercarriage. Out in Johnson's Valley it got bent and banged up quite a bit, almost looked like I'd needed to replace it. After taking it off, I took my 4Runner and drove over the top of it a few times, then I took my "Big" hammer and pounded it flat again, even taking out the 2 bends in the back of the plate that I had made for my T-case clearance. It's all painted and ready to be reinstalled, but first I need to take off my front plate and do the same.
Personally I think the thicker plate isn't worth the extra weight and my 1/8" skid is more than enough to do the job. But once I cut out my crossmembers, that will change, because the plate will be closer to my driveline. I got a few good ideas from others at the Jamboree and will be incorporating them into the design of my new undercarriage protection.

Since I added a body lift, raising my transmission mount was quite easy and there is no adverse effect to the engine mounts. I had raised it 2", which was just enough to clear the lowest portion of the t-case with the lower edge of the frame rails, but the driveshaft angle was too much, so I went with 1 1/2" blocks, the angle is tolerable, but the t-case now hangs just below the rail. This won't be a problem to deal with, my new crossmembers will incorporate the added protection. I will be able to keep most everything else above the rails as well. I'm running numbers on the new lower link locations, so i'm still not too sure where they will end up yet. I really need to relocate the fuel tank first(it's about 3 1/2 gallons less ), otherwise locating the link mounts to the inboard side of the frame rail will be impossible. I'm also pondering the idea of just welding the mounts to the bottom of the rails......

ravencr

I went ahead and got 1" motor mount spacers from Roger Brown just because when mud get's near my fan blades it rubs slightly. Plus, I think it will help the driveshaft angle just a tad. What do you think? So, you're not raising the motor, right? Does that include the stock little skid plate or have you removed it and the spacing is without the little stock skid? I'm wanting to remove the stock little skid plate to help with about 1" of clearance, but you may have already done that.Would it not be best to make the lower links frame mount on the inside of the frame and basically in line with the driveshaft/transfer case so that they would both pivot on the same axis? Plus, depending on where you locate the connection on the axle, it would end up being parallel to the driveshaft, which I've heard is the best, right?

Chris

shazaam

Transalper, the combination of a rear locker and this skid plate . allowed me to do so much more then I would have otherwise this past weekend. Stuff I would have avoided before, I intentionally would try and hit now ...

thanks again man

transalper

Awesome! Now you can just sit back and enjoy the ride.

ravencr

But, this skid definitely needs reinforcement. Shazad, when you were resting on it on Trail 4, you were also resting on your transfer case, which is not the idea of the skid. I'd reinforce it with angle iron or tubing to prevent that from happening again. This could probably be why you couldn't get your 4wd to engage the next morning, but maybe not.

Chris

shazaam

Yeah it probably does need reinforcing. But it worked for a quick fix. When someone else reinforces theirs, I'll try and follow what they put up (ie Chris )

I think the 4wd issue had to due with the optima not being secured properly, b/c the negative terminal kept coming off. Once I turned off the engine, and the reconnected the terminal it was all good. Then I just zip tied the battery into place.

BruceTS

I have thought about raising the motor mounts too, but so far it hasn't been a problem leaving them stock.

Yes the skid plate needs to be removed...

Actually there's more to it than that and they don't have to be parallel to the driveshaft.

ravencr

Mine will be totally different once I raise my crossmembers, etc. But, nevertheless, they will be reinforced, because I know I've rested the full weight of my vehicle on them before, and I saw how's your's was all bent up into the transfer case, and I'd prefer with the tight clearance that I'll have that they don't flex much at all.

Chris

ravencr

Thanks Bruce! I know there's more to it than just making the lower links parallel with the driveshaft, but it's not a bad idea either, right?

Chris