low to high= total makeover
#1
low to high= total makeover
heres the story I bought this stock 1989 toyota in 1989 had it ever since, never drove it in winter,it has tons of mods,had it stored for 17 years and yes i did start it and drive it and change fluids regularly, so anyway i brought the truck home to do some work on it and get it road worthy, had it out in the driveway and we got a wicked storm and the truck has bad hail damage.
So I'm heading in a new direction with the truck I need it to be a daily driver but still look cool, so the blue truck is mine and the grey truck is the look i'm going for, I am going to use the same fenders and hood as the grey truck, i'm trying to figure out the tire size and i would assume i will need rims with a negative off set so the truck won't look narrow with the new fenders, any suggestions? on rim choice or maybe tire size? thanks
So I'm heading in a new direction with the truck I need it to be a daily driver but still look cool, so the blue truck is mine and the grey truck is the look i'm going for, I am going to use the same fenders and hood as the grey truck, i'm trying to figure out the tire size and i would assume i will need rims with a negative off set so the truck won't look narrow with the new fenders, any suggestions? on rim choice or maybe tire size? thanks
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
First, whats your budget? It will dictate your whole build.
If you want the same fiberglass, they look to be the fiberwerx ivan dan setup which is about $600 not counting the bedsides which are another $300-$500 depending on which ones you like.
Tires look to be 31x10.50s. You will need about 5'' of lift in the front to clear those tires without a lot of rubbing. That can be done a few different ways depending on how much you want to spend and if you are actually going to use it offroad. If it will only see pavement, then it will be cheaper then having to buy a whole new suspension setup. You will also want to re-gear the rear axle or then live with the crappy MPG and power loss it will get from the bigger tires.
Honestly, its going to cost you a good amount of $$$ just to have the "look". I'd guess at least $2500 for it to still be streetable that you can drive everyday comfortably.
If you want the same fiberglass, they look to be the fiberwerx ivan dan setup which is about $600 not counting the bedsides which are another $300-$500 depending on which ones you like.
Tires look to be 31x10.50s. You will need about 5'' of lift in the front to clear those tires without a lot of rubbing. That can be done a few different ways depending on how much you want to spend and if you are actually going to use it offroad. If it will only see pavement, then it will be cheaper then having to buy a whole new suspension setup. You will also want to re-gear the rear axle or then live with the crappy MPG and power loss it will get from the bigger tires.
Honestly, its going to cost you a good amount of $$$ just to have the "look". I'd guess at least $2500 for it to still be streetable that you can drive everyday comfortably.
#3
money is not a problem,you really think i will need 5 inches of lift to clear 31,s? I think I will order the fenders and install them and then see what size tires fit without doing a lift then decide from there, wouldn't you think the extra width and the larger cut outs in the fenders would help with clearance issues? i'm thinking the rims will need a neg offset . what do you guys think of the weber carb system?
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Yes, they will hit. Once you make room with the fiberglass fenders, the tires will then hit the firewall/inner wheel well when turning and over big bumps.
I was able to fit 235/75-15s (28'') with a 2'' body lift, ball joint spacers, and some torsion bar cranking. This is what it looked like
It didnt rub at all but the ride was very harsh because of the torsions being that far cranked up. Lift spindles are the best way to get the lift and not have a crappy ride but they are not easy to get a hold of now.
In the back I was running lift shackles and had lots of room.
I was able to fit 235/75-15s (28'') with a 2'' body lift, ball joint spacers, and some torsion bar cranking. This is what it looked like
It didnt rub at all but the ride was very harsh because of the torsions being that far cranked up. Lift spindles are the best way to get the lift and not have a crappy ride but they are not easy to get a hold of now.
In the back I was running lift shackles and had lots of room.
#7
Registered User
Have never looked at a 2wd closely, where does the difference in height come from? Total guess, but it seems likely that if you could buy the stock suspension, springs torsion bars etc, off a junked 4wd for a couple hundred and bolt it on that you would gain the height to clear 31's on the cheap without any of the potential issues of BJ spacers.
If you know somebody, or see a dealership, who has a 4wd and can park next to it and compare suspension setups should be easy to find out if the difference is purely spring height, or body mounts etc.
If you know somebody, or see a dealership, who has a 4wd and can park next to it and compare suspension setups should be easy to find out if the difference is purely spring height, or body mounts etc.
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